New Wave is the new wave

It's been around a while, but fashion's New Wave movement is not as fleeting as some would have hoped. Bright colours are here to stay and for Spring, get ready for in-your-face acid-like tones, in its brightest, disco-esque, early nineties sort of way. Old Rave is the New Wave and bring on the glowsticks.

London's East-End has been partial to all that is New Wave with artists and designers such as Stuart Semple and Gareth Pugh capturing the zeitgeist and speaking for a generation that wants more than just fancy clothes and beautiful things. If anything, there is a backlash reaction to the luxury goods industry and paying absurd prices for designer labels seems less exciting than finding that one-off pair of sequined platforms in a vintage boutique. These days it's all about dressing up, crazy style; cavorting to old-rave dance music and going out.

New club nights such as Anti-Social and BoomBox see a generation of kids valuing new rules for what is considered fashionably cool. Gold lame leggings, all-in-one neon bodysuits and skinnier than skinny jeans worn with chunky patent shoes are the new uniform. And that is just for the boys. Experimental make-up, miniskirts and tongue-in-cheek punk hairstyling differentiates the girls from the guys. Though more often than not, it's only up close you can tell the difference.

And what unites this new breed of fashionistas? Is it ‘nu rave' culture? Fluoro-coloured lipstick and smiley faces? More than anything, it's a reaction to our popular culture. Look at Stuart Semple's paintings, where underlying messages of our overexposed contemporary society are seemingly glamorized, like luxury goods advertising. There is a hollowness and playfulness that is very Wahol-esque in its imaging. No wonder his work is being sought after by the likes of Valentino and Debbie Harry.

The new magazine Super Super, a trip in itself to read, features crazy club kids in neon leotards, plastic sunglasses and some of the most outlandish outfits imaginable. Still, the magazine speaks for a generation parallel to what happened in New York's East Village in the 80s. It's an amalgamation of young art, music, fashion and clubs coming together and bringing something new. One can't help but notice, however, that the more absurd the outfit, the more kudos the person. Everybody seems to want to outdo the other. From discoball-wearing i-D stylist Molaroid, to Gareth Pugh, designing controversial glow-in-the-dark rubber-ball outfits. To discuss the merits of wearability is to miss the point. The weirdest of creations are getting the biggest reactions and the most media attention. But to focus on this is again to miss the point. The new wave is about a generation enjoying a crazy, fashionable moment in time. It is like the early MTV generation, the antithesis of prepackaged, clubs, labels, brands and music. In fact, its spontaneous and earnest. So, grab your glowsticks before the neon lights have dimmed.

www.thesupersuper.com
12 November 2006

The Future's So Bright, You Gotta Wear Shades

This season, colour and collaboration are two buzzwords for sunglasses - but don't look to the usual suspects to frame this season's choices, there are some great alternatives.

Known for handcrafted titanium lenses, Swedish-based eyewear label Sceye invited industrial designer Karim Rashid to produce a line of sunglasses they've dubbed Karim Vision. The forward-thinking designer came up with a line that sports soft rounded curves and fiercely angled lenses rimmed in laser-cut gunmetal titanium. The photochromatic lenses with NXT technology change color in response to light intensity, providing an unexpected jolt to the whole collection.

Linda Farrow Vintage, a company steeped in colorful tradition since the '70s, and a longtime collaborator with Pucci and Nina Ricci, recently embarked on some brand new alliances. For Michiko Koshino (with whom Farrow has a licensing deal), the eyewear specialists have produced pristine white strips of metal fused with bluntly-angled, darkly tinted color lenses, to reference '80s New Wave. Sexy colors of deep purple, jungle greens and funky fuchsia in disco pimp plastic frames are the result of a collaboration with Frost French for their recently launched eyewear collection. For the avant garde, Farrow's circular wire frames for Swedish designer Ann Sophie Back were either missing lenses or they were created to appear destroyed. Linda Farrow's dexterous designs have won many converts amongst the global chic set, including Scarlett Johansson, Sienna Miller, and Lenny Kravitz. Farrow's line sells at Barneys New York and L'Eclaireur in Paris.

Paris-based Histoire De Voir has a long-standing collaboration with Lagerfeld Gallery in addition to creating designs for Pucci and others. Selections from these partnerships are excellent; but look no further than Histoire de Voir's own line of sunglasses with a signature interchangeable leather temple, which comes in a wide range of colors (lenses vary in color as well). If Jacques Adnet were to do eyewear they would look something like these. Ultra-light, uber-chic, and shockingly underexposed (the label has been around since 1993), look no further than this line as the alternative to the too-popular Dior and Givenchy range.

6 May 2005

Spring's hot must-haves

I love this time of year, but not because of the rain and sleet or the darkening skies. It's the best time to plan for spring, eternal optimist that I am. Christmas has come and gone and thoughts turn to the future. Especially in the fashion world, which is famously forward thinking.

The Daily has published its list of ten top must-have accessories for spring, and the list looks pretty good. Expensive and exclusive maybe, but the high street will soon solve that problem. So now is as good a time as any to review the options for the coming season and translate them to a more realistic budget.

First on the list is Versace's new doctor bag. Yes, it's a miracle. Just when we thought she had completely lost touch with the public, Donatella has something of substance to offer. Unfortunately, a knock-off would never look as good as the real thing, so this might be worth the splurge. Even better, if that option simply isn't one, is to find something resembling the style. This glitzy number, with its cream leather and gold details, is definitely not for the faint of heart.

Next on the list are Proenza Schouler's textile flats, but any flats will do. French sole is always a good option, but any self-respecting high street shop will carry the shoe, which lends every outfit a bit of French style. Also on the list are the wedge heel, oversized movie-star sunglasses and Michael Kors' brocade necklace. For the latter a visit to the haberdashery department of your local department store might prove very rewarding. The necklace alone, paired with a simple white vest, will make you look like a billion dollars.

Further down the must-have list is Bottega Veneta's pastel blue handbag with tortoise-shell chain straps, Anna Sui's beaded headband - it's all about walking like an American Indian these days - and a pair of stunning electric blue satin, high-healed pointy Chloe pumps. But look no further than Office for a similar pair.

Finally, Lacoste has come out with a non-logo, chic, striped beach tote. This look is a cinch to imitate but do visit Lacoste for a bit of inspiration, if you feel so inclined. Number 10 on the list is Vera Wang's long beaded necklace with deep purple stones, which deserves a 10 for sheer beauty. Not easy to emulate, in terms of quality, but run down to Camden or Portobello market where you'll be sure to find something to that effect. Otherwise, Harvey Nic's and Harrod's offer pricey yet exquisite alternatives.

10 January 2005

Cartoons As Fashionable Scent

Cartoon the Powerpuff Girls are launching an exclusive branded luxury candle collection to be sold in London department store Liberty.

Renowned international perfumer Lyn Harris has taken the essence of animated icons Buttercup, Blossom and Bubbles as the inspiration for the scented candles, creating three definitive scents for the cute but super-heroic characters, with an emphasis on energy, fun, colour, and personality.

The candles will initially be available in Liberty in London and Colette in Paris.

11 March 2004

Tourist Trends

Tax refund specialist Global Refund is hosting a presentation offering an insight into tourist shopping trends for 2003 and onwards. The evening event will include presentations from Ian Yates, managing director of Global Refund UK, and guest speaker James Bradbury, general manager at Madame Tussauds in London.

The event will be held at 4 Hamilton Place, London W1 on July 16. For more information please contact Global Refund on 020 8748 0774.

10 July 2003

Men's Trend Watch

Watch out Men! If the recent flashbacks of retro fashion didn't tickle your fancy, the trend gets even more prominent next season. The major fashion houses are hoping the 1960s inspired menswear will go straight from the catwalk into your closet.

Suits are cut slim and boxy, and proportions shortened. The wool trousers you mistakenly machine washed -and shrunk - are back in fashion. Think Sgt Pepper styling, striped blazers worn with baby cord, military jackets (yes they're still around) with twill and lightweight wools.

Don't worry if the mod-look is not glamorous enough. New Wave black is chic, even if your tight denim jeans are ripped and shredded. Wear a wool tailored jacket on top and let the evening roll. Rock'n'roll, that is!

Labels to watch out for are Miu Miu, Missoni Men's, Marc Jacobs and Burberry Prorsum. The new Prada windows already feature the mod squad suit. If you're stuck for inspiration, head to Nag Nag Nag, at Ghetto on Wednesday nights. If you don't dress up, you don't get in.
<Don-Alvin Adegeest>

12 June 2003

Too Cool for School

That 'old school' is out and 'retro' is in, is nothing new. Every fashion spread is filled with collages of 80s style inspired looks and from high street to high fashion, everyone seems to have jumped on the bandwagon. To see it for real, however, is a different matter. Fashion editors would like to have us believe that the look on the streets is a literal translation of the latest Vogue issue, but real-life dressing generally abides by its own set of rules. Or so I thought.

Enter 'Egg' the newly launched night club in North London where the coolest of the coolest crowd dance the night away to electric beats and synth pop. No longer content with pretty dresses and sipping cocktails it would not have suprised me if someone confided they came straight from a Culture Club video shoot.

The first person I recognised was Danish born model-turned-stylist Lisa Samoto. Clad in a low-down zipped black boilersuit and stilettos, she looked every inch an electric diva. Mind you, she didn't much stand out in the crowd.

More striking were the tight black washed denim tucked in ankle-length boxing boots (for men) and harlequin off the shoulder tops teamed with iridescent tights and multicoloured heels (mostly women) that caught my eye. Add a few gloves, silk Adidas jackets, sweatbands, one eye shadowed and pirate hats and the story starts to unfold. That the dj was wearing an emerald prom dress with sleeves puffed like watermelons didn't amuse as much as the boy wearing a cut-off mini with ripped fishnets and converse trainers.

Still, I hadn't made the trip to see the new fashion force come out en masse. It was the music that interested me. Hosted by Outland Recordings, the uber cool dance label, live bands played electro-clash until the early morning hours. Whether it is the music that is inspiring the fashion or vice versa, the retro vibe is filling the air and the look is set to dominate the summer.
<Don-Alvin Adegeest>

28 May 2003

Back to school with Marc Jacobs

School's in for next winter, that's for sure after seeing shows from Luella Bartley en Marc Jacobs. While Bartley showed rebellious school-like clothing, Marc Jacobs presented cool teenagers that you might find hanging around the entrance hall of a Seventies high school. Last Monday, Marc Jacobs showed his new line for Marc by Marc Jacobs in New York.

Cropped trousers, in bleached denim with a red satin stripe or an array of prints. Flat, pointed pumps with tiny cut-outs over the toes. Lots of lumberjack checks, which gave a real vintage feel to tailored jackets and miniskirts. Leopard print coats with bright orange tops: it was a real party. Girly double-breasted wool coats worn over thick tights, white fur box jackets with Jacobs' signature. Bright colours and luxurious fabrics - a great collection for autumn/winter 2003.

February 13, 2002