Fashion goes plaid

This season, plaid is everywhere. Not just from the old faithfuls, such as Pringle of Scotland or Ralph Lauren, no, also Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Alberta Feretti found inspiration in the Hebrides. So is what is the ‘kilt trip' all about? Plaid, for fall, is about being bold, bright and understatedly sexy. Alexander McQueen drew on his Scottish roots with his Highland Rape show, where red tartans mixed with camel cashmere tweeds and headpieces were made from falcon wings.

Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga created bulbous tweed minidresses and matching jackets. Ralph Lauren did urban huntress perfectly with glen plaids: delicate dresses in silk taffeta had peplum kicks and ruffles galore.

Burberry championed Britishness with cable-knit hats – also a trend at Stella McCartney. Pringle's chunky wool jumpers and cardigans and Gerard Darel's extra-long knit scarf are essentials, and best in warm creams. Wear them with a Luella mini-kilt or Marc Jacobs maxi-kilt and Falke's thick wool tights in autumnal shades. Jackets were a staple: finely tailored tweed blazers at Hardy Amies and cropped numbers with buckles at Bottega Veneta. To top it all off, ruff collars and neckties replace jewellery for daywear.

30 September 2006

Hip hop clothing sales growing

Sales of hip hop fashion are on the increase in the UK . The commercial quality of hip hop music acts are driving sales and online retailers are bearing witness to the movement. “The sector is seeing doubled sales in the last year as street wear clothing takes off,” Robby Sur, managing director of urban and hip hop fashion etailer Yukka, told fibre2fashion. “Hip hop labels provide a level of individuality for youth, allowing young people to feel like their favourite rapper or singer while setting their own trends.” Rappers like 50 Cent, Jay-Z and P Diddy have even launched their own fashion labels with great commercial success. “The market for hip hop was initially a niche one with purchases by hardcore hip hop fans only,” said Sur. “Now it's more diverse, with a wide range of ages becoming interested, from 10-year-olds up to people in their mid 30s.” Another reason for the increasing popularity of hip hop fashion in the UK is that US hip hop manufacturers work have worked together with European distributors to adjust sizes according to our preference for slimmer fits. And now domestic players like King Apparel and Projekts NYC are also gaining ground. Currently menswear still accounts for 90 percent of Yukka's sales, although the womenswear component is starting to grow.

www.yukka.co.uk
27 July 2006

Pirate Chic

Pirate chic is all about naughty versus nice. East versus West, Bardot versus Blackbeard. This summer, fashion comes to us in striped tops, pirate blouses and the season's must-have: shorts.

Wear the shorts skinny or alternatively longer and baggier (even pleated) if you roll them. Tie a sash around the waist or complement with a head scarf (let yourself be inspired by Pirates of the Caribbean). Buttons make great accessories – wear them as big as doubloons. And don't forget a cable-knit sweater for those breezy boat-rides.

The authenticity of trends

In the early nineties, trend consultants had us strapped to our chairs telling us what the delights of the future would be. Super flexi lifestyle gurus would offer ideas as to how to be a visionary futurist, foreseeing the looks that would give one credibility in style; a glimpse had how to be cool for the ensuing months/years.

Where have those gurus gone, you may ask? They're old and have been recycled, like the trends they were raving about. These days, anything hot and new is already old and yesterday's news. Predicting a trend requires little more than mathematical effort and knowledge of the fashion lifecycle.

Most trends fall into the category of The 20 Year Rule. The 20 Year Rule dictates the tone of the trends of tomorrow, enabling us to determine what will be hot six months or three years hence. Spin the wheel of retro two decades back to find out. Currently the sound and look of the mid-eighties is influencing music and fashion. Bands such as Franz Ferdinand are reticent with their popular echoes of early-Eighties outfits (think Gang Of Four) and designers such as Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme and Raf Simons are designing today's fashion zeitgeist.

These days, trends spread like wildfire. They are infectious on a global level, getting around quicker than a bout of Asian bird flu. Consumer glossies are on the pulse with all things current, but seem to be telling us what we already know. Page after page of the latest gadget, handbag or designer isn't so much a news item anymore. One need only go to a trendy boutique and most of the products featured can be seen/purchased/ordered. The similarity in themes when browsing the latest fashion mags makes one wonder if there is an underground fashion scene left at all. Those magazines with a little more underground integrity (remember The Face, Dutch) have disappeared and haven't as yet been replaced.

With technology and outsourced manufacturing becoming globally available, brands and products can be made to look similar, both in quality and characteristic. You probably won't be able to differentiate whether it was created in the Prada design studio or a random Chinese factory, except perhaps by the embroidered logo.

To be trendy, therefore, requires some sort of authenticity. Brands that try too hard to be like every one else will never be style leaders. Consumer behaviour has shown us that a brand must hold intrinsic emotional value in the buyer's eyes. A cachet often associated with a luxury brand as consumers are taught to be buying into a philosophy and way of life. You're never just buying a pair of shoes, you are entering the select world of brand membership. So with millions of products and designers to chose from, why buy into one brand and not another? Why is one trendy and another dowdy?

A plethora of theories can answer that question. For the moment, to be truly trendy, is to be authentic. People who exude confidence in themselves and the clothes they wear are the ones who get noticed. Brands that create seemingly effortless glamorous clothes, whether high-end fashion or street smart (minus the bling factor), are the one's favoured by fashion editors. Why? Because to be individual doesn't require fashion alienation – you can blend in without having to look like anyone else. Just be authentic.

22 August 2005

It's a frill thing

Ruffles are back. Big, small, couture-esque and high street fabulous. From huge doorstep wedges to teeny crinkles, frilly tiers are a definite fixture this season. They are loved by celebrities for their easy maintenance as tiers don't crease and not to mention their decadent femininity.

Ruffles are true red-carpet winners and designers such as Alberta Ferretti, Chanel and Marc Jacobs have interpreted the look in their eveningwear collections as seen on celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Eva Longoria and Kirsty Hume, who all share a penchant for their pretty and classic looks. Opt for microsized crinkles that cling flattering to curves, or floppy formless folds that are a modern take on the traditional layered dress.

8 July 2005

Autumn Trends

Summer has yet to grace our shores and the magazines are already reporting the trends to hit the shops come September. Across the board, voluminous silhouettes are taking over the ladylike look of the 50s and bringing us back to the 40s, a time where elegance was sleek and glamorous.

Colourful palettes have made way for subtler tones and black has made a comeback, which at houses like Prada and Marni made for a bold statement away from previous seasons. The frivolity of accessories has been given a sharp makeover to lend to a more cleaner and sober look.

For a good investment, you can't go wrong with pleated or folded skirts, bell-shaped dresses and velvet jackets. Coats are luxurious and belted - think Prada, Sinha Stanic and Missoni - and pare-down on embellishment that is so popular this season. Divert from high-octane glamour and think about simple luxury.

30 March 2005

Go Green!

The new trend amongst the fashionable Londoners is to go green. That is, to opt for all things organic - which includes, of course, what you wear.

Sienna Miller and Minnie Driver both love People's Tree for clothing and accessories. Its mail-order catalogue and website are full of cosy alpaca jumpers, embroidered bags and pretty jewellery made using traditional skills. And the small communities that People Tree trades with get a fair wage.

Stella McCartney, who famously refuses to work with leather, produces beautiful shoes using rubber, satin, cork and faux suede. For those on a budget, try the made-to-order shoes in jewel tones at Beyond Skin, starting at just £89.

www.peopletreet.co.uk
www.stellamccartney.com
wwwbeyondskin.co.uk
18 January 2005

What Happened To The Art Of Bling?

Whatever happened to gold-chains and trainers, low-slung denim and diamond watches, and earrings so sparkly you could comb your hair in their reflection? Has the art of bling gone lacklustre and dull? The leading players of planet bling were music stars such as Missy Elliott, Puff daddy, and Jennifer Lopez. According to Paul McKenzie from The Times T2 "it proved hypnotic to see young black men and women from the ghetto drinking Cristal champagne, being photographed in the VIP lounges of the world's coolest clubs wearing thousands of pounds of jewellery and street-style jeans and Timberlands."

Perhaps we are bored with Essex-girls; the Victoria Beckhams and Jordans of this world, having seen too much of their fake tans, the showing of their assets and indulgence of lavish lifestyles? Like the days of the gangster, their credibility has become too mainstream and the boys in the hood are being replaced by the boys in the Hamptons, St Tropez and London. Artists such as Andre 3000 and Jay Z are moving in on 50 Cent and Busta rhymes, who are traditionally associated with gangsta-rap and bling society.

But bling wasn't only fronted by the hip-hop scene, as it came to dominate popular culture also. The word even found its way into the Oxford Dictionary and every race and class seemed to partake in their own bling moment. So what has replaced bling if it is indeed over? Is it English tailoring over Italian luxury, is it beautiful dresses over track suits? The diamonds are being replaced by cashmere blazers and leather-handled umbrellas. The Timberlands have been sent to storage in favour of Gucci loafers and the customised BMW is now an Aston Martin or Bentley.

Perhaps it is the desire to stand out of the bling crowd. Wearing a multitude of layered jewellery doesn't cut it anymore. People want a fresh look and designer labels and customised cars are less credible with the urban audience. Maybe, too, the realisation that a bit of a sparkle can go a long way. Or maybe it's just being fashion forward.

5 November 2004

Bright Lights, Bright City

Consider the following: If at present the moon's atmosphere was habitable, its people could easily mistake the new fad for bright colours as an after glow of Haley's Comet. Everywhere, it seems, bright and zingy colours have penetrated their way from the 80s acid movement back onto our streets, our stores, and our favourite fashion magazines.

From high street to designer, the brighter the better is the trend you cannot ignore for this spring/summer. With Jil Sander producing a collection in near-neon-yellow and white (the London store resembling something of a luxury Ariel advert, so clean and fresh), C&C California re-introducing the tie-dye t-shirt and every fashion retailer hot for colours that zing, like Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Missoni, and even Louis Vuitton. The fashionista's favourite, cool label Comme des Garcons, has expanded its colour palette beyond blue tones to make room for the bright moment and have some fabulous glowy tops.

The must have accessory this season, then, is to have something bright. Whether a cotton tee, a pair of heels, a wrap dress or a bag, it's the colour that is the defining factor for summer. Bright red, yellow and washed blue are the freshest of fresh. Wear them with ease, such as under a jacket or to liven up a pair of jeans or plain trouser. Alternatively invest in a bright mac to lighten up those rainy days.

8 April 2004

Call Of The Wild

All things Africa are continuing to inspire the fashion scene. Colourful tie-dyes are mixed with jersey dresses or layered with chiffon or soft cotton trousers. Wear them with leather sandals and accessorise with wooden bangles for that call of the wild look. Tie-dye t-shirts available from C&C California at The Cross and Harvey Nichols. For cotton jersey dresses head to French Connection or Ted Baker.

24 March 2004

Prim is in

Seductive and simple, prim is in! Inspired by Maggie Gyllenhaal's character in the film Secretary, released earlier this year, pencil skirts, prim blouses and high heels are the new chic.

Gone are the badly dressed, just-out-of-bed-look days as the well-chosen office ensembles make it to the front of your wardrobe. Think tie-neck blouses, silk-cashmere cardigans, knee-length skirts (belt optional) and stiletto heels. All the basics to make you look seductive and subversive at the office.

While most office workers probably long to escape the regimented uniform look that has been in place for decades, now is not the time. This autumn, the blouse and skirt have been revitalized, as designers look back to the decades when these simple pieces were far from boring.

The exaggerated femininity of the Forties and Fifties has inspired both designers and the high street to rethink daywear and make it as sexy as evening. To complement the new men's power-dressing you can exude boardroom confidence with an office look that is sexy yet understated. Wear tweed with chiffon for neutral tailoring. Add leather gloves in red or green for the season's most important accessory.

12 September 2003

Tanked Up!

The weather is hot. A heatwave has swept over Europe and city dwellers are struggling to dress appropriately for high-fly meetings in non-air-conditioned offices. Unfortunately for us Brits, there is no such thing as a siesta to go home on hot day for a quick change of (dry) clothes. Just in case things got a little too hot under the collar.

For those who can dress a little more adventurous to a conventional three-piece suit, the tank is a must for your wardrobe this summer. Going sleeveless is not only sexy and easy, but also practical for combating 30-degree weather. La Perla's lingerie is now as much outerwear as underwear and is a great range for high summer dressing. Combine subtle embroidery and soft florals for a more daytime look, while satin and lace detailing will keep it glamorous for evening.

Men should keep it sporty and go for Prada's beige stripe tank or for a more colorful alternative, Vivienne Westwood's red, white and blue slimline tank. Worn with a cotton or thin wool trouser, you need not be associated with a grunge look. And, while the vest is making a comeback in the trends-list, it may be wise to renew that gym membership. Toned arms not included!

5 August 2003
Don-Alvin Adegeest

Kaftan Cool

There is only one look for the summer girls, and that being the kaftan! Whether holidaying in the Seychelles or eating poolside in Brighton, there's only one way to go - long loose and seriously cool. Dress up the look with shades and strappy heels. (ps it's more Liz Taylor than Margot Leadbetter).

30 June 2003

Trends Not Good for Profits

This season's trend for cheap string vests and miniskirts has made a big hole in revenues at women's fashion store New Look. This time last year it was about gypsy tops and rugby shirts, which sold for GBP 10 or 12 a go, but the vests, now taking the high street by storm, cost only GBP 5 each.

Like-for-like sales at New Look plummeted 6.6% in the eight weeks to 24 May against admittedly high comparatives a year earlier. Average selling prices are some 10% down on a year ago. "We're a fashion business - we have to follow the trends," said chief executive Stephen Sunnucks. Shares in the group crashed 11% on the news, tumbling 26p to 22 1/2p.

The summer-to-autumn transitional range should be a bit more pricey as 1960s-style PVC macs and 1980s off-the-shoulder sweatshirts reach the shelves. For investors, July cannot come soon enough. But a weak May was not just about the fashions being dictated from the catwalks of Milan and Paris. Sunnucks expects a decline in consumer spending across the country. He revised down by "about 1%" his view that consumer spending this year would run at a growth rate of 2%-4%.

Pre-tax profits in the year to 29 March came in at GBP 85.2 million against GBP 62.3 million last year on turnover of GBP 643.4 million compared with GBP 585.4 million before, in what Sunnucks said was a record year for the group.
Total dividends are 8.75p a share against 7p last time.

4 June 2003

No Doubt about Style

No Doubt's singer, Gwen Stefani, is launching her own fashion line. The super-stylish fashion and music icon is to call her collection L.A.M.B., because all the accessories will feature the words Love, Angel, Music and Baby.

Although Stefani's clothes will not hit the shops until spring 2004, she is also embarking on a joint venture with LeSportsac to produce a series of handbags and accessories, due in stores this September. The line will feature ten handbags and totes as well as eight other items, including wallets, make-up bags and, of course, a CD case.

It comes as no surprise that the wild trend-setting star, who married Bush's Gavin Rossdale in an outstanding John Galliano dress last year, has chosen to make her own mark on Planet Fashion. "This is truly my look," she explains to Teen Vogue of the clothes she is co-designing with her stylist Andrea Lieberman. "It's going to be based on everything I've ever worn, from my first punker pants to the present."

2 - 4, 2003

Elvis still inspires

The king of rock and roll, Elvis Presley still inspires top designers in their creative process. This time, a number of top designers have turned Elvis hits into one-off outfits for a charity auction.

Julien Macdonald is among those who made clothes to be auctioned next week. Each of the designs is based on one of the tracks featuring on a recent Elvis greatest hits album. Lady Victoria Hervey is one of the figures who have posed in the designs with an open-fronted dress, made by Scott Henshall, based on All Shook Up. Arkadius took his inspiration from Devil In Disguise for a skimpy red number, while Macdonald used A Little Less Conversation as his cue for a catsuit.

The auction, the brainchild of record label BMG, is being staged at Sotheby's Olympia on December 5 in aid of the Prince's Trust Fashion Initiative. Other designers and labels taking part include Ben de Lisi, Ozwald Boateng, Ghost, Rifat Ozbek.

Kerry Taylor, head of theme sales at Sotheby's, Olympia, said: "We are thrilled to be involved in this auction that promises to be a really exciting occasion bringing together fashion and music and most importantly benefiting the Prince's Trust."

November 28, 2002