Clarks eyes international expansion

British shoemaker Clarks is said to be planning a major international push, according to media reports. The company, which employs 12,000 employees worldwide, is said to be driving international growth to combat a slowdown in profitability in the UK market. Profits in the year ended 31 January 2007 dropped to £69.4 million, down from £71.9 million the year before. Revenues, meanwhile, rose from £921.4 million to £972.7 million.

It is believed the company will add 450 new overseas stores to its current roster of 500 stores over the next 10 years. According to the reports, Europe can expect the first influx of new stores, although the US is also thought to be an important growth market for the company, Retail Week magazine reported. Clarks executives could not be reached for comment.

www.clarks.co.uk
26 June 2007

Oliver Sweeney to launch custom shoe service

British shoe retailer Oliver Sweeneyis launching a custom-made shoe service for summer 2007. Customers will be able to choose from a range of exotic skins including ostrich, crocodile and iguana; plain leathers in seasonal colours; as well as detailing like laces, piping and lining. Built around Oliver Sweeney's two popular toe shapes, Twister and Venice, soles can also be stamped with a personal message, name or date.

The service will be available in the brand's three standalone stores in London and Leeds plus its concession in Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge. The process takes up to 12 weeks and the finished shoe will be delivered to the customer's local store in an embossed wooden box. The shoes will be available in UK sizes 6-14 and prices range from £495 to £990.

Oliver Sweeney was born in Leicester and left home in his mid-teens to seek a living in London. ??The story of how he secured a job as a shop-boy in a grand old shoemakers in the heart of London 's West End has become part of the mythology of Oliver Sweeney. Though every bit of that story is absolutely true: Sweeney worked his way up from unpromising beginnings, learning every trick of the trade and the craft of creating quality shoes for men, as well as a good deal about the art of retailing.

www.oliversweeney.com
3 May 2007

Vivarte to acquire NafNaf

French fashion and footwear concern Grupo Vivarte has announced its intention to purchase Grupo NafNaf. The two companies are currently in negotiations. Grupo NafNaf is run by the brothers Gérard and Patrick Relative and encompasses the brands NafNaf and Chevignon. In a statement, Patrick Relative said that NafNaf had chosen Grupo Vivarte as it would “constitute an impulse in our strategy to reinforce our development, overall internationally.”

Grupo NafNaf has 1500 employees and a network of 800 points of distribution in 50 countries. Pending the sale, it will continue its current activities. The transaction will not affect any of the employees. Meanwhile, the acquisition demonstrates the next step for Vivarte in growing its business. The company said that the NafNaf and Chevignon brands would reinforce its presence, particularly in city centres and commercial centres. With 2600 points of sale worldwide, Grupo Vivarte is one of France's leading fashion companies. Currently among its stable of brands are Carroll and Kookaï, as well as a host of textile brands.

www.vivarte.fr
19 February 2007

UK investment fund acquires Bruno Magli

Luxury footwear company Bruno Magli has been acquired by UK-based investment fund Fortelus Capital. The Italian luxury footwear specialist, which has fallen on hard times, was previously owned by Opera, an equity fund backed by Bulgari SpA and a number of other investors. The amount for which Bruno Magli was sold is unknown.

Fortelus Capital is a new $300 million turnaround fund founded last year by Timothy Babich. This is its first purchase. Babich told WWD that the majority of the capital spent on the acquisition would go towards reviving the Bruno Magli business. “I think that part of (the attraction) was the history and the archives of all the designs,” he said. “We think that there is a good base to build on.”

Opera bought the Bruno Magli business from the Magli family in 2001 for $140 million. Since then, Opera has failed to lead to business to profit. WWD reports that a source has said that it struggles with a lack of creative direction and a limited budget. Since 2003, Opera called in the help of consultancy firm Alix Partners to help manage the business. According to Babich, Opera had already completed a major part of Bruno Magli's turnaround. The brand operates 32 fully owned stores; 11 in Italy and 21 in Japan . It also has 25 stores through franchise agreements, with presences in 60 countries. In 2006, the company had €45 million in sales.

www.brunomagli.com
1 February 2007

GBMI signs Sean John license

Fashion footwear specialist Global Brand Marketing Inc has inked a licensing agreement with US sportswear brand Sean John. GMBI will exclusively design, develop, manufacture and globally distribute the label's footwear for men, women and children. The new summer 2008 collection, which will include dressy, casual and athletic styles, will be introduced in New York in June.

“We launched a capsule collection of footwear, the Sean John Elites, in the Fall of 2005, and it was an instant success,” says Sean ‘P Diddy' Combs, the rapper turned fashion mogul. “With this new partnership, we will be able to dramatically increase our offerings and distribution. We look forward to working with GBMI as we believe they are the industry leader in both design and distribution.”

GBMI, founded in 1996 by Killick Datta, is also the global footwear licensee of Nautica, 7 For All Mankind, and Mecca and Diesel. A spokeswoman for the company revealed that development of the collection has already begun and added that details of the agreement would be announced at the fashion trade show Bread & Butter in Barcelona next week.

www.seanjohn.com
www.gbmi.net
9 January 2007

Nine West continues expansion

US footwear and accessories group Nine West continued its expansion strategy in December with the opening of stores in cities like Tokyo , Moscow and Hanoi . The chain, which is best known for its fashionable footwear, first initiated the expansion drive early last year. According to parent company, Jones Apparel Group, the focus is on openings in the main fashion districts of leading cities, where each store will offer a boutique environment and a specially selected assortment.

“This international expansion of our retail stores in these prestigious markets will reinforce Nine West as a leading global accessory brand,” said Andrew Cohen, chief executive of wholesale footwear and accessories. “The store design will include collections that are indulgent, dramatic and upscale, representing the viewpoints of the Nine West brand and strengthening our global fashion presence.”

The Tokyo store is Nine West's first in Asia and is located in the Omotesando shopping district. The Hanoi store, also the city's first, is located on Le Thai To. Meanwhile, two stores opened in St Petersburg in Russia , one in Moscow and one in Ninzhny Novgorod. The company is now available in more than 60 countries and has more than 875 stores worldwide.

www.ninewest.com
2 January 2007

Car Shoe opens second flagship

Italian luxury footwear brand Car Shoe has opened a flagship in Milan , making this its second outlet after the one in Capri . The new shop, on the fashionable Via della Spiga, is designed like the interior of a car, with green leather chairs evocative of car seats and shiny wood panelling recalling luxury details like the dashboard. Architect Roberto Baciocchi was given approval by Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive of the Prada Group, who is deeply involved with the brand.

“The automobile world recalls the origin of the brand, and since we wanted to preserve classic elements of style, this décor not only seemed right but also duplicable in various sizes and locations,” said Stefano Cantino, marketing manager at Prada Group. He told WWD that the opening of this store is a sign of the group's commitment to growing the brand. Stores are planned for Rome , Paris , London , New York , Barcelona , Tokyo and Hong Kong .

The brand, which was founded by Italian Gianni Mostile in 1963, has enjoyed a strong and steady growth in the past years. Sales in 2004 were $7.8 million (£4.0 million) and forecasts for 2006 are $30 million. The brand's bestseller, its classic driving shoe with pebble sole, accounts for 40 percent of sales. Customers who want to customize their car shoes can choose from a range of 35 colours and a selection of skins at no extra charge. In the last two years, Car Shoe has expanded its offering to include 100 footwear styles for women, while 30 new bag styles are introduced each season. All products are designed by an in-house design team.

With a loyal fan base that includes the equivalent of Italian royalty, the Agnelli family, and prices ranging from $304 to $538, Car Shoe is well-set to occupy a position as a true luxury brand.

www.prada.com
29 November 2006

Kickers encourages action

Iconic French footwear brand Kickers has launched a new website that encourages positive action among the world's free thinkers. With its new Go Do Something campaign, the company is hoping to inspire people to take “positive action to make things better in your own way”. It could be “travelling the world, releasing a record or even growing a beard.” On the new site, visitors can upload photos, movies, mp3s and share experiences on a notice board called ‘The Brick Wall'. For anyone who wants to create a pledge to do something, Kickers has created The Pledger, where you can post a promise. During the first two weeks of December, two giant screens will be set up in London and Manchester , which will project your pledge on a larger-than-life scale. Once your promise is broadcast, it will be that much more difficult to back out. So, in the words of Kickers, go do something!

www.godosomething.co.uk
23 November 2006

New designer for Nine West

Fred Allard has been appointed new creative director of the Nine West footwear and accessories divisions. He will oversee the direction of the footwear, handbag and jewellery divisions of the brand, which is owned by Jones Apparel Group. “This is about our ongoing commitment to putting product and design at the centre of the brand, investing in the best talent and bringing together in each division to act as a unified Nine West team,” Andrew Cohen, chief executive of Wholesale Footwear and Accessories, said in a statement. “We believe Fred is the right person to execute this vision and we are happy for his return to the company.”

Allard has spent 12 years working for the Nine West group. He has previously held positions as creative director of Castaner, where he was responsible for footwear and handbags for various fashion and luxury brands. He was also creative director for footwear brand Stephane Kelian.

www.ninewest.com
17 October 2006

Poste Mistress branches out

Footwear brand Poste Mistress is branching out with its first own-label women's wear line. The company has launched the range in 25 USC stores and might eventually roll it out across all 60 of the young fashion chain's stores. The brand new collection consists of dresses, tops, shirts and jackets, ranging in price from £30 to £75. The range will target the same consumers who shop at All Saints and Reiss and are looking for smart party wear. It will also target existing USC customers. The range is designed by two in-house designers.

Until now, Poste Mistress only offered upmarket shoes from designers like Dries van Noten and Vivienne Westwood, as well as creations by up-and-coming designers. The label was available in a stand-alone Poste Mistress shop in Covent Garden , at Office and in a concession at Harvey Nichols. A men's footwear range is available at a shop called Poste. A spokesman for the company said there are not plans for a menswear range. Hunter is also the owner of the Office group, which includes Poste Mistress, Poste and Offspring. He acquired the group for a reported £15 million in May 2003. His other interests include USC, apparel business D2 and footwear chain Qube.

www.postemistress.co.uk
10 October 2006

EU charges on footwear imports

China has declared the EU's charges on import of leather shoes from that country illegal. It reacted to agreement the EU made on Wednesday to limit the import of cheap shoes from China and Vietnam . During the next two years the EU will charge a fee of 16.5 percent on leather shoes from China and 10 percent on Vietnamese imports. The agreement does not include athletic footwear. The decision was met with resistance from twelve European member states. Thirteen member states were in agreement or had not voted. Nevertheless, the proposal has not been rejected; this would only have been possible if the majority had been against. The terms of the proposal have however been softened. Instead of the initial five years, EU commissioner Mandelson introduced a term of two years.

The import of leather shoes from China increased 1000 percent between 2001 and 2005. Southern European footwear producers are particularly against the import, claiming they are costing them a fortune. One of their main contentions is that footwear producers in China and Vietnam are subsidized by the state.

The Chinese minister of trade, Chong Quan, said that he would keep a close eye on the results of the fees. He does not believe there are grounds for the action, which he says will harm the rights of the Chinese footwear industry.

6 October 2006

Office sees significan growtth

British fashion footwear chain Office is receiving an £8 million investment from owner Sir Tom Hunter as it continues to expand. The chain has already opened 13 stores this year, and another six openings are in the pipeline over the next three months. £4 million of the investment, which comes from Hunter's West Coast Capital private equity vehicle, consists of basic store out-fitting. Including merchandise and marketing, the total adds up to £8 million. Meanwhile, first-half sales are up 33 percent and are expected to hit the £90 million mark by the end of the year.

West Coast Capital is a small firm but calls in co-investors when putting together a deal. “While the partners certainly get through the deals we would not conclude quite as my without the exceptional partners we have in the likes of HBOS, LXB, Prestbury, Baugur and the Reubens,” a spokesman for Hunter told the Scotsman. “The future will see us continuing to lead some deals whilst co-investing with other partners in the lead.” Press executives could not be reached for further comment.

www.officeholdings.co.uk
4 September 2006

EU wants tariffs on Chinese shoes

The European Commission is proposing punitive import tariffs on leather shoes brought into the European Union from China and Vietnam. But EU governments are deeply divided over the plan - which requires approval by more than 50% of member states. The quantity of shoes imported from China and Vietnam has risen dramatically over the past five years. In 2005, 1.25 billion pairs were brought into the EU from China , and 265 million pairs from Vietnam . Low manufacturing costs in both countries mean that such imports are very cheap, and attractive to retailers.

But some European manufacturers are crying foul. They claim that their rivals in China and Vietnam receive government subsidies, enabling them to sell shoes abroad for less than the cost of making them - a process known as dumping. The European Commission agrees. After a lengthy investigation, it announced earlier this year that there was "compelling evidence of serious state intervention in the leather footwear sector in China and Vietnam".

In April, it introduced emergency tariffs on leather shoes, to protect European businesses from the effects of unfair competition. Those measures are due to expire in early October. The commission wants to replace them with a more formal system, under which imports from China would attract tariffs of 16.5% and imports from Vietnam, 10%. These duties would remain in place for up to five years.

A spokesman for EU Trade Commissioner Peter Mandelson said the proposals were fully justified. "If we tolerate dumping, we send the signal that Europe tolerates unfair competition and unfair trade," he said. "Anti-dumping measures will not save uncompetitive producers - but they will create a market in which comparative advantage is exercised fairly." The move has strong support from countries such as Italy, Spain, Poland and Portugal, which are anxious to protect their own shoe producers.

"The damage caused by the dumping of shoes from China and Vietnam is very serious," one Italian official told the BBC. "In 2005, thousands of small companies closed down, and many more in the years before that. "Many of these companies are family businesses with only three or four employees. "We are not acting in a protectionist manner, and we are not trying to prevent imports of Chinese shoes. But free trade must be accompanied by fair trade."

But others insist the proposals are nothing short of protectionism, among them Syed Kamall, a UK Conservative member of the European Parliament. Countries such as the UK, Germany and the Nordic states believe that the proposals are too harsh, and represent an unwelcome barrier to trade. In an informal vote earlier this month, 14 member states said they would not back the proposals. If the same thing happens when formal talks take place later this month, the plan will be rejected.

For many observers, this case is about a great deal more than simple tariffs on a few 100 million pairs of shoes. It reflects a deep debate within the EU itself over globalisation, and how to react to the emergence of China as a trading superpower. And that debate is unlikely to be concluded quickly.

31 August 2006

Henri-Lloyd launches women's fashion footwear

Henri-Lloyd, the heritage sailing brand, is launching a new women's fashion footwear collection. Spanning eight styles in a multitude of colourways, the collection is deemed to be modern and sporty, a bit like the brand itself. According to the company's commercial director, Graham Allen, the women's line is very much a response to consumer and retailer demand, and as well received when unveiled at Bread & Butter recently. “It is a really exciting move or us and is a natural extension of our existing men's footwear business,” says Allen.

Hailed as Wardrobe Staples for actively minded women, the new collection is designed to encapsulate Henri-Lloyd's spirit of adventure, but with a feminine twist. Laid-back styling and clever detailing (including sailcloth stitching, handwritten logos and contrast piping) are designed to complement the existing ready-to-wear range. The collection is designed to target a female mindset rather than a female demographic and pinning the Henri-Lloyd team down to a particular age group can be tricky, according to the brand. The new launch is paired with the ongoing development of Henri-Lloyd's existing men's and technical footwear lines, where the spirit of adventure is very much alive.

The company prides itself on its pioneering styles, aiming to product the highest quality products with strong functionality and design. Ongoing involvement with the BMW ORACLE Racing team has helped further cement its technical marine roots with fashion. The design team has been given the freedom tot push boundaries and break new ground to produce a truly remarkable shoe. Outside the UK , Henri-Lloyd's biggest export markets are Italy , Sweden and the USA . The brand is available in 2,006 stores in 23 countries worldwide.

www.henrilloyd.com
29 August 2006

Stuart Weitzman adds bags to the mix

Manhattan-based footwear company Stuart Weitzman has launched a handbag collection. The $175 million (£92.6 million) firm also said that it planned to more than double its US stores from 19 to 40 within the next three years and to add an undisclosed number of international stores to its existing 17 boutiques abroad. It furthermore announced its intention to add categories through licensing deals, including children’s and men’s shoes, jewellery, eyewear and beauty. The company expects to generate $15 million for the handbag collection at retail this year and intends to expand it to a $100 million business within the next three to five years. The collection is aimed at a broad customer base, from young and hip to a more mature audience and includes pieces like a fake anaconda satchel. The bags, like the shoes, are made in the company’s factories in Alicante, Spain.

“Our customers feel a tremendous loyalty to our brand,” founder and chief executive Stuart Weitzman told WWD. “We didn’t want to do one “It” bag, because that you either hit or you don’t.” In the past, the company had introduced some bags, but never a full collection for wholesale. The first collection, which wholesales for between $250 and $400, will launch at a select number of retailers that already carry Stuart Weitzman shoes, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Harrods. The bags will also be sold in the company’s own boutiques in both the US and abroad.

The handbag collection was designed under the direction of executive vice president of the product division, Clare Schultheis. She joined the company in January of this year after working for Cole Haan’s women’s division as senior vice president of design and merchandising. Also new on the team is the firm’s first president and chief operating officer, Greg Ribatt, who reports directly to Weitzman. In 2007 Stuart Weitzman will open stores in five US locations, including Los Angeles, and an outlet store outside Las Vegas. It opened its seventh store in Rome this month and there are three new stores in the pipeline for China next year. The company already has boutiques in Israel, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Mexico, Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Switzerland and Italy.

www.stuartweitzman.com
14 August 2006

All about Fratelli Rosetti

Fratelli Rosetti, the Milanese family shoe producers, is driving its refined house style to new highs with technological innovation and wistful themes from its young design team. Italian artistic maturity and centuries of refined detailing – be it a restrained embellishment or an elongating architectural line – combine with simple perfect in the finest materials.

This season the Fratelli shoes are spoiling us: rich jewel colours of the season and an alluring mix of textures will bring glamour and luxury to your winter wardrobe.

8 August 2006

Dolcis up for sale

Dolcis, the footwear retailer, is set to change hands after its owner, the quoted fashion group Alexon, decided to offload the loss-making chain. Alexon has hired Hawkpoint, the corporate-finance boutique, to oversee the sale of Dolcis, which operates from 67 stand-alone stores in Britain and almost 150 concessions.

An information memorandum relating to the sale has been circulated to a number of interested parties within the past fortnight. These are understood to include a number of private-equity firms. A disposal will leave Alexon, which has a market value of £81million, with the Bay Trading young fashion chain and its Alexon Brands and menswear divisions. In total, the group operates from almost 1,600 stores in Britain and Europe.Alexon has decided to sell Dolcis because of the intense competition in footwear retailing in the UK.

The company is also struggling more generally, having announced a 5.7 per cent fall in group like-for-like sales in the 16 weeks to May 20.Alexon refused to comment on the sale of Dolcis, which recorded an operating loss of £700,000 last year against a £3.6 million profit the previous year.

3 July 2006

Patrick Cox for sale

Patrick Cox, the Canadian born London-based shoe designer has put his shoe emporium up for sale. The price tag is a hefty £10m. Cox enjoyed enourmous success in the early 90’s with his famous loafer outselling the one million mark. The intellectual property rights to the loafer design, however, are ownbed by Italian footwear manufacturer Ruggeri and a second diffusion line called PC’s is licensed out. One observer said: “The problem is that a lot of the success and volume sales are not owned by the company.”

Patric Cox is listed at Companies House as Cobblers. It has signed actress Elizabeth Hurley to front its spring advertising campaign and is owned by Patric Cox, along with managing director Peter Sells and entrepreneur Richard Thomson, who took a state in the business early last year.

12 May 2006

GBMI wins footwear licence from 7 For All Mankind

Footwear producer Global Brand Marketing Inc has announced a global licensing agreement with popular luxury denim label 7 For All Mankind LLC. Under terms of the agreement, GBMI will design, develop, manufacture, market and globally distribute men's, women's and children's shoes for the brand.

“With fantastic brand recognition both domestically and abroad, 7 For All Mankind fits our company portfolio of brands perfectly, providing us a world recognized brand in an increasingly important luxury category,” said Killick Datta, founder and chief executive of California-based GBMI. “Utilizing our worldwide infrastructure in design, sourcing, marketing and distribution should allow for the accelerated growth of 7 For All Mankind's footwear sales by bringing the right product to a worldwide market in a timely and efficient manner.”

The new footwear collection will consist of a mix of dressy and casual styles to compliment the existing denim line. Distribution is geared towards high-end department stores and specialty boutiques. At a later stage, a line of children's shoes will be developed and launched.

GBMI also holds global footwear licenses for Diesel, XOXO, Nautica and Mexico. The company also owns retail store chain Global Feet, and the Verde and FunFlopps brands.

www.gbmi.net
27 April 2006

Nine West catches designer bug

This fall US footwear company Nine West is launching a series of collaborations with established and up-and-coming designers. During the first three months, starting in September, parent company Jones Apparel Group, has invited Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon and Sophia Kokosalaki to design for the firm. According to WWD each designer's collection will be available in only 20 of Nine West's top stores and 40 of department store Macys' top locations, and via their respective websites.

With these high-profile collaborations, Nine West is hoping to boost is brand image. However, the deal works both ways: the brand's distribution network can help the designers – with little of no distribution in the US – to reach a new consumer group. As was the case with H&M's collaboration with Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld, to name an example, both parties will benefit. “In the most recent research for Nine West, we learned that the consumer loves the brand and relationship, but her buying is all about impulse,” Jones' executive vice president for marketing and creative services, Stacy Lastrina, told WWD. “She likes to be exposed to things that others maybe can't have.”

Each designer was given free reign in designing 11 designs, which include footwear, handbags, ready-to-wear and accessories. Vivienne Westwood's collection will launch first on 1 September and will include playful interpretations of her signature tartans, as well as gladiator boots and tiny cardigans. Prices will range from $225 to $500. New York-based designer Thakoon's collection follows on 1 October. It will include a white leather “T-shirt” handbag, a clear plastic umbrella covered with lace and a leather, demi-wedge. Prices will range from $180 to $400. “As you grow your business, the cash flow is always a big concern,” said Thakoon Panichgul. “This injects some money into the company outside the biannual market time frame.”

Kokosalaki, who is based in London , will see her collection for the brand launch on 1 November. Her contribution includes a cashmere cape, military jacket and handbags with antique hardware details. Prices will range from $200 to $450. For her, the collaboration signifies both a way to enter the US market as to experiment with an accessories line. The prices are decidedly higher than with other designer collaborations. “We didn't want to limit the materials and design parameters,” said Lastrina. “This is about quality, and it is still much less expensive than any other designer collection. We have already had success in this arena with Easy Spirit's collaboration with Tara Subkoff. Her $600 boots sold out.”

www.ninewest.com
21 April 2006

All about summer shoes

It's time to sort out your summer shoes. April is the perfect time to spring-clean your wardrobe, starting with your shoes. Winter boots and heavy shoes are to go to the back of the wardrobe. Dust off your sandals from last year and sort them out according to day, evening and work. Day shoes should be smart, kitten heels, round toes and more casual. Leave you pointy shoes with the winter collection, they'll be back in fashion next year.

For evening, take you favourite delicate strapped sandals, be they beaded or sequined, and give them a total makeover. Get any worndown heels repaired and have tatty soles re-fitted in beige rubber - lighter colours are more summery – to make them waterproof against those summer showers.

7 April 2006

China to appeal EU shoe tariffs

China's shoe makers will appeal Europe's decision to slap anti-dumping tariffs on their leather products amid concerns the duties will have a major impact on local industry, state press said. Chinese shoe manufacturers have set up a three mln yuan fund to challenge the European Commission's decision announced yesterday to impose temporary duties from April 7 over allegations of unfair trade.

"A number of domestic firms will jointly put forward their case (to the EU) and we hope to get a favourable outcome at the final rulings in about six months," Wu Zhenchang, an industry leader, told the China Daily newspaper. Wu is the chairman of Chuangxin Footwear in southern China's Guangdong province, where around half of the nation's shoe exports are made, and helped set up an industry coalition to defend Europe's anti-dumping accusations.

"We will invite European lawyers to plead our case against the duty," the China Business News quoted Wu as saying. EU Trade Commissioner Peter Mandelson said the duties would be imposed on Chinese and Vietnamese leather shoes because the governments and manufacturers in those countries had been engaged in unfair trade practices.

The duties are to be imposed gradually over five months and will rise to 19.4 pct for leather shoes from China and 16.8 pct for leather shoes from Vietnam. Children's shoes are not covered by the measures."We do not target China and Vietnam's natural competitive advantages, only unfair distortions of trade," Mandelson said. The commission said the duties were needed because Chinese and Vietnamese manufactures enjoyed state aid in the form of soft loans, tax breaks, low rents, fuzzy accounting and export incentives. China's state-run news agency said Europe's decision would have a major impact on the local shoe making industry, with profit margins already extremely slim.

Fashion House licenses Mizrahi footwear

The Fashion House has signed a licensing agreement with Isaac Mizrahi to develop and distribute footwear under two labels. These consist of the Isaac Isaac Mizrahi bridge line and a new couture collection. “I'm so excited to get involved with Fashion House. It gives me the opportunity to expand my shoe business with a great partner who shares my goals,” said Mizrahi. The first collection from this collaboration will debut at the Fashion Footwear Association of New York in June of this year. The Isaac Mizrahi footwear collection will a couture line targeted at upscale stores and retail prices will start at $500. The line is set to launch next year.

“The Fashion House is looking forward to a long partnership with Isaac Mizrahi,” said Fashion House president and chief executive John Hanna. “We share the goal of making fashion fun and approachable for all women and know that we will be a successful team. The agreement with Isaac Mizrahi is another important advance in our strategic business plan to build an unparalleled portfolio of exclusive brands for distribution and sale worldwide.”

Pierre Hardy is first call for shoes

Long before the current obsession with 80's chic, Pierre Hardy mastered the neon stiletto. His signature collection of edgy, ultramodern footwear has become the high-heeled darling of style setters such as Nicole Kidman. Monsieur Hardy has conquered the avant garde accessory game, designing for both Balenciaga (shoes) and Hermès (jewelry).

This season sees the launch of Hardy's glorious shoes arrive at Dover Street Market. His signature contemporary collection is based on simple geometric shapes, and he uses tradition materials combined with a strong colour and graphic palette. Dover Street Market carry both the men's and women's collections. Get a pair before stocks run out.

Keen gains ground on European soil

US outdoor footwear specialist Keen has seen its presence as a “trendy ‘in'-brand” grow in its first year of business in Europe . Keen Europe saw order levels for the first half of 2006 are already at the same level as the whole of last year's sales together. The company now also offers almost twice as many models as the year before and is bullish about its future. “The initial signs are good that these optimistic expectations for sustainable growth throughout the whole fiscal year will be met,” said the company.

Keen Europe is positioning itself as footwear producer that is able to combine originality with innovative shoe technology and craftsmanship. The goal is to be a “full-range provider” for hybrid footwear, “demonstrating its capacity to cover the whole range from sporty outdoor models all the way to stylishly trendy Boulevard shoes for lifestyle and leisure.”

Meeting customer demand has not always been easy for the company during its rapid growth surge, but it is convinced that it will be able to better meet manufacturer and retailer demands this year. It has entered a partnership with a Belgian logistics firm and has solidified its relations with retail partners. Keen Europe “continues to be committed to its objective of just-in-time and even low-volume deliveries.”

Keen Europe strengthened its workforce last year and plans to continue expanding its distribution, marketing and operations departments in order to exploit existing sales potential.

28 February 2006

>> more Shoes news in the Archive