Oki-ni.com relaunches

Supported by British based distribution company Four Marketing, e-commerce men store oki-ni.com just re-launched with a brand new website, a fresh selection of high end brands, a limited edition sneakers and gadgets. In September 2001 Oki-ni.com was set up as a one of a kind fashion collaboration concept in London , playing in on the growing demand by consumers for exceptional products. The especially designed merchandise was only available at oki-ni.com and the company established its name globally.

After six years the oki-ni.com's approach to fashion products got picked up on by the fashion industry and now it is time to move forward. From this month the online retailer will solely focus on menswear lifestyle product. For the first time seasonal ranges will be introduced, which is placed next to the other unique products. Boystoys, men brands and other rarities will be exclusive to oki-ni.com.

By offering exclusive and limited editions, oki-ni.com sees to break away from other Internet men retailers. The online menswear store is looking at playing into a wider target group and global audience by offering internationally established labels combining with the easy access of the web. In September oki-ni.com is looking at launching a guerrilla store in central London on a secret location for 1 month. The space will work more like a gallery then a shop, where new and unique lifestyle products will be on display. Visitors can view, touch and try the products before deciding to order them online. To purchase a product, customers can order via a touch screen placed in a window of the space.

Image i.o.d.
www.oki-ni.com
22 August 2007

Bluhe men's swim shorts

For SS08, Bluhe the new men's swim shorts brand launches their new swimwear collection especially for men. Earlier this year Bluhe's luxury limited edition swim shorts was produced successfully. The brand established its name as a stylish, quality brand by using a unique printing process, which brings their especially designed prints to life. The new SS08 collection continues to expand with original prints and different shapes featuring summer holiday themed designs in bright vibrant colours: ocean blue beaches, sea scenes and the underwater world.

The swim shorts come in a longer leg length and have two side seam pockets. Made of soft polyester, the shorts are easy dryable in the sun and comfortable to wear. The collection stands out with handy details like a Velcro sealing back pocket, a key fob, and an elasticated waistband with draw cord and inside pocket. Bluhe's SS08 swimwear collection will be available at their online store from September.

www.bluhe.com
15 August 2007

Liberty to launch menswear

Liberty of London is set to launch its menswear range internationally and will wholesale the collection Milan men's fashion week later this month. Up until now, the range has only been available in the flagship Liberty store in London but for spring/summer 2008 it will be available at boutiques worldwide.

The women's and home collections will follow in September with a showroom in Paris, reports WGSN. The move comes as Geoffrey de La Bourdonnaye prepares to take over as Liberty CEO on July 1. He joins from LVMH where he was president of the Christian Lacroix fashion label prior to its sale. He will lead the venerable department store's move into the international fashion market as it builds itself into a more widely distributed luxury brand rather than just a retailer.

www.liberty.co.uk
21 June 2007

Bond most stylish celebrity

The votes are in. James Bond star Daniel Craig has come in number one on GQ's annual Most Stylish Celebrity list. The men's magazine based its decision on the way Craig's tailored suit worked so well in the movie Casino Royale because it seemed “like an upgrade” of what he wold usually wear. “No Bond since Sean Connery has worn it better,” the magazine said. The contrast made all the difference, as everyone loves a good makeover.

Second on the list was conservative leader David Cameron, followed by rugged actor Clive Owen, David Williams and Jude Law. Also on the list were David Beckham and Pete Doherty. How is it that a seriously pretentious footballer and a drugged out, unwashed specimen could have made it onto this coveted list? Prince Harry's appearance at 10th place was a surprise entry and marked a first for any Royal. Mulberry's creative director Stuart Vevers described his look as “modern and classic with a hint of rock 'n roll”. One of the biggest surprises, however, was wacky presenter Russell Brand's slot at eighth place, particularly as he had been voted the poll's least stylish celebrity. “Some can't stick him but to others he's British exuberance encapsulated,” the magazine said.

www.men.style.com/gq
4 April 2007

New menswear designer Ungaro

Frank Boclet has been named menswear designer for Emanuel Ungaro. He is replacing Jose Levy, who quit the fashion house six months ago. Boclet is joining the firm from Francesco Smalto and will present his first collection for Ungaro in Paris in July.

Ungaro intends to breathe new life into its menswear business, which consists of two lines. “The first Emanuel Ungaro line is very small today,” Mounir Moufarrige, Ungaro's president and chief executive, told WWD. The second line, Ungaro Homme, represents the largest part of the business and is manufactured by the British Marchpole Holdings. According to Moufarrige, menswear currently accounts for 30 percent of total company sales. Last year, sources estimated the men's business to be worth about $50 million.

“We have a wonderful opportunity to develop a more fashionable first line,” Moufarrige said. “I think Frank has a good vision to do so.” He added that Boclet's assignment was to design “seductive” clothes. Ungaro is owned by California-based high-tech entrepreneur Asim Abdullah.

www.emanuelungaro.com
22 February 2007

Milan menswear update

The Milan Autumn Winter 07 men's shows got off to a slow start, with Prada and McQueen being hailed as the best of the week thus far. The designers seem to have taken inspiration from areas as diverse as bio-dynamic science and 1970s horror films, with McQueen featuring mods and rockers wearing stiff coats with rounded shoulders, Hollywood-style Python trenches and Prada showing dip-dyed coats, boxy cut jackets and oversized sports tops with drawstrings neck and hems.

At Burberry, Christopher Bailey reworked his classic silhouette inspired by military allure. Trench coats with double lapel and high collar are oversized, worn over slim trousers and shirts. For the futuristic look, Bailey cut the trench wider at the hips, using gold fabric, its fluorescence was taken several notches down with the use of dull buttons, making it more formal than casual.

16 January 2007

Gant joins forces with Cousteau

Fashion chain Gant is collaborating with Jean-Michel Cousteau on its spring 2007 campaign. Working under the motto “Our commitments reflect our passions”, the brand celebrates dedicated people who have made in a difference in the world with their passion and commitment. One of those is Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the famous underwater researcher Jacques Cousteau. Jean-Michel is the founder and president of the Ocean Futures Society, a non-profit organisation that champions the protection of underwater life. His children Celine and Fabien work together with him. Cousteau's life and work are the inspiration for Gant's spring collection. “I am honoured to be working together with Gant on this project, with which Gant will also support the Ocean Futures Society,” says Cousteau. “We share the same passion for water, which naturally plays a big part in our lives.”

Gant's chief executive, Arthur Engel is delighted with the collaboration. “The members of the Cousteau family are passionate of discovering and protecting the oceans. Their dedication and admirable work via the Ocean Futures Society represents a conviction and dynamic lifestyle that matches Gant.” According to a company spokeswoman, the campaign will feature Cousteau and his children, but the collection will not be greatly affected by the collaboration. Under this motto, Gant previously worked with Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and his Waterkeeper Alliance organisation and with Susan Miller, the contemporary art expert known for supporting young talent.

www.gant.com
23 October 2006

Something for the boys

Addressing the increasing demand for men's accessories, Paul Casey has founded dressdifferent.co.uk dedicated to male fashion accessories. Not able to find what he was looking for on the high street, the 24-year-old decided to launch his own online shop offering hip, young bags, hats, belts and wallets. “I don't think men appreciate how much they actually spend on accessories,” says Casey. “In a market worth over £1 billion, men account for a surprising 49 percent.” The assortment includes computer bags and messenger bags by Crumpler and Ducti, Gant and Guess sunglasses, wallets by Prognose and belts by Yummy. The brands are sourced form all over the world and give the wearer the opportunity to express his individuality. “The importance of accessories for me is that they can transform a look and really make you stand out,” Casey continues. “I don't feel enough emphasis is put on them as they're commonly found in small ranges, tucked away in the back of shops. My site aims to change that.” The site currently stocks over 60 lines and there are plans to increase the offer in the coming seasons.

www.dressdifferent.co.uk
27 September 2006

G-room in liquidation

Men's fashion and lifestyle retailer G-room, whose directional store on Carnaby was one of Soho 's most aspiring menswear stores, has gone into liquidation. The boutique, founded by Andrew Hampson in September 2004, sold men's fashion, accessories, beauty and gadgets and was considering launching concessions in formidable department stores nationwide.

The plans, however, never materialised, and managing director Michael Pike resigned from the company several weeks ago and Hampson was unavailable for contact. Kingston Smith & Partner has been appointed as liquidator.

30 May 2006

Menswear second best when it comes to stores

What's happening to the so-called revolution in menswear? GQ Style this month announced that it's (finally) ok for men to spend time and money on grooming and that men can herald being fashionable. In clearer words, if you were not aware already, it's ok for men to want to look good.

Menswear on the catwalk has certainly become more directional in the last three seasons (even Levi's is doing men's skinny jeans these days) and with publications dedicating more and more pages to men's fashion, it seems as if we're finally on equal footing with womenswear design.

So why is it that key stores and boutiques such as Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Liberty have their menswear brands tucked away in dingey basements, not so subtly stating that menswear isn't good enough for first floor fashion? On a recent shopping exercise this editor visited the aforementioned department stores, only to find menswear hidden in underworld passageways - where complicated routes and never-ending escalators and staircases lead to so-called “lower-ground floors”, subterranean spaces and men's areas which resembled more a panic room than a floor dedicated to aspirational fashion.

Not surprisingly, women's fashion enjoys floor upon floor of luxury displayed clothing, in pleasing and accessible surroundings (which includes the magnificence of natural light). At Harvey Nichols, for instance, going up the first escalator your eye catches a glimpse of delectable Lanvin dresses and Jimmy Choo shoes, without even setting foot on the floor. In the men's department the nearest thing to catch your eye is a rail of socks, or the latest briefcase styles from Dunhill. Ooh, hold me back.

In Harrods, which is arguable the best menswear floor in London at present when it comes to fashionable brands, there seems to be a little more headroom when browsing the men's collections, however, its still in the basement opposite the lost and found department and staff locker rooms. It's surprising to see that in a store of this magnitude - it was once the world's largest luxury department store – that sections such as the pet salon, pottery area or children's hairdressing get better space allocation than menswear.

The rigueur amongst department stores, it seems, is to keep men's fashion stocked in gloomy, low-vaulted ceiling boites, and for fashionable blokes to browse and buy their favourite designers under flashes of artificial lighting in cramped surroundings. This is hardly motivating to make a shopper want to spend £269 on a Balenciaga short sleeve top?

Selfridges, on the other hand, has dedicated its first floor entirely to menswear and its shoe department, with its comfortable daybeds and sofas, is one of the best in London. Still, the men's superbrands room, which was hailed to be London's most directional shopping area, has about the same energy level as a morgue (i.e. on a Thursday night) and isn't nearly as chichi as the womens superbrands on the second floor.

It's wonderful to see designers such as Raf Simons, Dior Homme and Dries van Noten get their justified floor space. A pity, though, that they've been forced to stake out in many a basement.

Milanese theatrics

As befits the king of provocative designs, Roberto Cavalli's men's wear show in Milan provided the audience with more than just a show.

Influenced by Japanese war-lords, models strode across the catwalk wearing red and black leather biker trousers and kimono-inspired tuxedos. Silhouettes were slim and modern, while the drama was in the detailing. The ever-present snake motif featured in jewelled splendour on sweaters and belt buckles. Cavalli chose dressy over casual, concentrating on opulent materials like shaved mink and fox and washed leather and included a number of female models to off-set the men and give the audience a bit of eye-candy.

The show was almost eclipsed by an appearance made by Victoria “Posh” Beckham, resplendent in a white evening gown with a thigh-split up to here and a cleavage down to there, sporting her trademark pout.

www.robertocavalli.net
17 January 2006

Sport back in menswear

Italian menswear has seen a return to sport for next season - and not just because Giorgio Armani had guys in suits cycling down the runway for the finale of his Emporio show.
Etro also had sport in mind for spring, and had fun with a Jules Verne-style flying machine riding above the runway. Lively colours, bold patterns and interesting textures, were judiciously used on lightly tailored clothes.

With a video of a sea swelling behind them, "beautiful" boys stepped out in a computer-enhanced update of the flower-patterned shirts seen on a young Valentino.
And at Dell'Acqua's sports-inspired show, there were tan leather trims on a canvas jacket to inserts of stretch fabrics at the pressure points of knees and elbows.

At Menichetti, the message that came across most strongly was of sportswear, from a seersucker shirt worn with leather pants through a striped blazer, unlined and super-light.

Do men need accessories?

Do men really want to get into the habit of owning the latest bag? Or, as fashion editors lovingly like to label it, the ‘manbag?' The craze for accessories seems to be bridging the gender gap, and these days men are as particular about owning the latest gadget, designer bag, or fashion accessory as their female counterparts.

The answer, thus, seems to be yes. As dress codes are becoming increasingly casual, men stand out from the crowd with new ways of showing their masculinity. Very important-looking ties, big cufflinks and class-conscious suits are fading away and being replaced by things that go beep (“My laptop has more megabytes and downloads quicker than yours”) and a plethora of expensive accessories ranging from the practical briefcase to the ever-so-trendy jacket brooch.

Dunhill, for instance, understands the need for practical accessories that are stylish and chic, and stocks laptop cases in “New Cricket” leather, with bold white stitching. They cost £695, which must mean that you are high-status. Imagine the envy of your colleagues when you take your Power Book to work. Also available to Dunhill is a soft, plain black leather Blackberry flip-opening case (£120); it has a magnetic gizmo in the lid that automatically puts the sexy little box of tricks on stand-by, stopping it from firing off rogue e-mails. Stylish, clever, and masculine, all in one.

Then of course there's Mulberry. The uber-classic British luggage label is now so popular in America , that New Yorkers are queuing up to own the latest Oxford or Roxanne bag. The new range of covetable men's bags – check out the Rockley or Eastwoord – is featured in practically every men's magazine from Arena to Zoo, all under the headings of “latest, must-have, can't-live-without, accessory.”

The psychological importance of men's accessories is that they should salve the fragile male ego in times of adversity. When your car breaks down, you'll feel much better calling the police from your shiny Nokia 8800 handset, than from an old, tired-looking phone. So too, when your girlfriend throws a wobbly at how much money you're spending on accessories, switch on your iPod (covered in the latest Dunhill croc leather case) and remember that you're only as good as the gadgets you own.

17 August 2005

Designer Menswear Brands Feel High Street Competition

It seems as if menswear is finally catching up with womenswear. If only in the sense that the high street is finally offering men spry and up-to-date collections of contemporary clothes, rather than the classic pleated trousers and double cuff shirt look of yesteryear.

The major fashion houses have been given a run for their money with all the new denim brands and cool sportswear labels that are popping up in hordes each season. And that men's fashion hasn't stood still is evident by the number of pages menswear glossies have dedicated to re-educating the male fashion palate. These days men, like women, don't find it necessary to buy designer labels when the high street is offering the latest styles at agreeable prices.

Men have a simpler approach to designer fashion. Answer the question: "what is my X-factor?" and they will spend. But a garment better have something extra or it's off the H&M. The successful houses this season were those that remained true to their DNA and displayed the quality and craftsmanship men demand from designer fashion.

The Milan shows were certainly a lesson in grace under pressure, and highlighted the reason why men should have to pay the full price for high fashion anyway. The retail climate is only exacerbated by not-so-covert attempts to woo emerging markets such as China and Russia and that one almost becomes nostalgic for the days before luxury goods became a global commodity.

Miuccia Prada translated the new mood - as she always seems to - into her SS06 collection with the philosophy "experiencing luxury through simplicity." Prada is leading the way for a new uncluttered feel in menswear. Sober colours, but not without a trick or trend, made the skinny trousers and sharp three-button suits seem new and fresh and like instant classics.

One of the few sexy collections from Milan was undoubtedly by Versace, who seems to have taken over where Tom Ford left off. Tropical silk-prints were worn with white trousers, as were jackets in bubblegum pink, lavender and baby blue. Still, even Donatella took it down an octane notch. Her new collection may make reference to art deco Miami, albeit with a more subtle and less complicated approach.

3 July 2005

For men, it's all about…white trousers

Men, next summer, will be following in the footsteps of Liz Hurley and be wearing white trousers. The one garment of choice for the Milan shows, was unmistakenly the white trouser, featured as a core menswear element of next summer's catwalk collections.

Missoni wheeled them out, pairing them with the label's characteristically colourful and patterned shirts, whereas Versace opted for the ivory version (a la Liz). But Gucci is so far winning the white trouser competition, featuring them in nearly every single outfit on the catwalk yesterday. Whether it has as many as Hurley, though, is unlikely.

30 June 2005

The London Menswear Focus

Ten years ago, the idea that London's menswear collections might reach an exciting pinnacle wasn't quite real. But today, Brits are starting to put a stamp on menswear without falling back on obvious references to Savile Row suiting.

Christopher Bailey, for example, has transformed the Burberry Prorsum collections into a desirable and modern luxury house, defining this season with a super-tailored tartan-filled trek through the British Highlands. The mayhem of John Galliano's women's line recently extended to his menswear collection, winning celebrity endorsements and securing copious editorial pages. And Alexander McQueen's first showing in Milan became an instant must-see and was packed to the rafters during his second presentation earlier this week.

It's not just the big hitters that are driving the industry: editorial darlings Jonathan Saunders and Kim Jones have been going strong for more than two years and enjoying formidable success as the go-to brands for fashion-forward boys. Saunders' signature print expertise and graphic strokes make him highly sought after by Pucci, Chloé, and McQueen. Kim Jones was the first ever menswear designer to win the New Generation Award during London Fashion Week.

Following in Jones' footsteps this season is newcomer Martin Andersson and his capsule collection for High Street store Topman. Andersson's skinny tailoring channels a bit of Helmut Lang; touched up with bright colors, stripes, and other easy decorations his work makes him one to watch. Skinny is high on the agenda for Benjamin Kirchhoff as well, whose sexy and wearable skull-slogan harness is a spring must-have.

London is not only breeding homegrown talent, foreign designers are choosing to stay there long after their Central St Martins' days. Take for example the London-based Swedish designers Peter Jensen and Siv Stoldal. They've been flying the Union Jack for menswear for a couple of years with collections that are masculine and subtly sexy. Both of them have proved very popular with the style press and have begun popping up in trendy boutiques outside of London. With the a/w '05/'06 menswear shows in full swing, the up-and-comers in London sit quietly in the wings, building their portfolios, and waiting to storm the international stage.

22 January 2004

Menswear Milan Report

The menswear fashion week kicked off in Milan on Sunday, with all eyes on British menswear labels Burberry Prorsum and Vivienne Westwood. Both brands have a knack for mixing heritage prints with a more modern approach, and both, for example, featured tartan trousers, two-tone cardigans and tweed coats for AW 2005. But whereas Burberry Prorsum moves forward from its traditional starting block, Vivienne Westwood, who had a massive retrospective at the V&A Museum last year, was living on past triumphs.

Burberry's show could very well turn out to be the best of the season. As ever, the inspiration came from the stylish, aristocratic British male, but also mixed in is 60s bohemianism. William Morris prints were sloshed across umbrellas and shirts, and the suits were particularly elegant in subtle tweed. The slight hippyish element came from embroidered sheepskin jackets and the odd tassle affixed to the beautiful leather bags. Even more bold than the jewel-coloured cardigans was the rainwear, which was patterned in the distinctive Burberry check.

17 January 2005

Marchpole expands in Korea

The UK menswear manufacturer, Marchpole Plc, has revealed expansion plans for its Castelbajac brand in Korea. The plans include opening in-store shops in duty free and department stores. London-based Marchpole signed a distribution deal for its Jean-Charles de Castelbajac brand with the Korean clothing retailer Daikyung Global Co. at the beginning of October this year. The deal will last until 2012.

A Castelbajac boutique will open in the duty free shop of the Lotte World Hotel in Seoul later this month. In January of next year two more boutiques will open in duty free shops on Jeju Island. During the same period, another boutique will open in a Hyundai department store in Woolsan and yet another will open in a Hyundai department store in Seoul in March.

According to the contract with Daikyung, which was signed on 3 October, distribution of the brand will also take place at five of Daikyung's stand-alone stores. Furthermore, the Korean retailer is planning to open one new department store per year.

Marchpole also owns the worldwide rights - excluding the US - Emanuel Ungaro and has the licenses for Yves Saint Laurent, Tomas Starzewski, Jasper Conran and Ozwald Boateng in the UK. Last year the company generated sales of GBP15.7 million in the first half ending 2 October 2004, up from GBP 8 million. Operating profits leapt form GBP 900,000 to GBP 2.6 million.

www.marchpole.com
7 November 2004

No Collar Required

Fashion sceptics say that menswear won't evolve much further than an oversized Raf Simons leather hoodie. But there are still inventive features with potentially wide appeal to come out of the currently lucrative and commercial menswear field.

Spotted on the international runways and showing signs of sticking around is a particular men's shirt detail looking something like a cross between a nehru and a classic shirt collar-some designers have even taken to stitching down the classic collar to create the look.

For spring, Emporio Armani attached his collars to vertically stripy cotton shirts worn with matching voluminous trousers; Calvin Klein sent out a selection in sumptuous colours ranging from salmon to saffron to sky blue - some paired with his shiny suits of the season; Dries Van Noten's take on the style was sighted on the runway teamed with tartan shorts and single-breasted jackets. And Hedi Slimane's elegant take on the collar last season was equally effective paired with grunged-up jeans.

The good thing about this new collar is that it isn't in the slightest bit ethnic or priestlike - making it all the more versatile and contemporary. Moreover, it doesn't require a tie. Besides these obvious style motives, designers might be working with this clever design feature for hygienic reasons since a Medical Center study analysing bacterial counts on doctors' ties recently garnered global headlines.

1 September 2004

What's Selling In Menswear

This summer, Hugo Boss has been taking the number-one sales slot for many retailers, followed closely by Armani Jeans, Boss Orange and Canali taking fourth place.

The last two seasons have seen Armani Jeans struggle in the trading update Draper's indicator. Its competitors have raised their game, while Armani Jeans meandered in a time warp of 'easy fits' and basic washes. This summer Armani Jeans delivered a collection of higher-priced alternatives to the likes of G-Star - directional while retaining its core commercial sensibilities.

Despite many retailers claiming business has been better compared to this time last year, some said recent trading had been tough. In the Draper's Survey, most retailers confirmed that the balmy weather was making autumn styles irrelevant to their customers, and some stated their customers were already buying ahead.

19 August 2004

Eric Clapton Saves Gentlemen's Outfitters

Eric Clapton is helping to save a historic gentlemen's outfitters from closure. The 59-year-old musician, who bought a half-share of Cordings on London's famous Piccadilly in December, is now helping update the store, spokeswoman Melanie Cable-Alexander said earlier this week. "I wanted to help preserve Cordings for myself so I could continue to shop there," Clapton said in an interview with the British news agency Press Association.

A Cordings client since 2002, Clapton said he'd been "a big fan of English traditional tailoring and have always been intrigued by the balance between functionality and style in the development of men's fashion."Founded in 1839 as a specialist in clothing for country sports, Cordings was the originator of the checked Tattersall shirt and made riding boots for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

The store will launch its first women's collection next month. "Cordings had been about to go bankrupt, but now its accounts are in the black for the first time in seven years," said Cable-Alexander. "Without Eric, the shop would have gone bankrupt." Guy Ritchie used one of Cordings' jackets in his 2000 movie, Snatch, and there are drawings by Damien Hirst and Rolf Harris in the visitors' book. Cable-Alexander said the shop had been hurt by the depressed tourist market after the 2001 terrorist attacks, the congestion charge now levied on drivers in central London and poor decisions by some previous managers.

4 August 2004

Chic Pirates For Men's Fashion

John Galliano and Jean-Paul Gaultier, two of fashion's top talents, offered radically different takes on next summer for the style-conscious man: a choice between the pirate look and timeless chic.

As men's fashion week reached its midpoint in the French capital, Yohji Yamamoto, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and Belgium's Dries van Noten unveiled sweet, softer collections with a hint of British eccentricity.

Galliano, the British bad boy who will unveil his haute couture collection for Christian Dior this week, obviously adored Johnny Depp in "Pirates of the Caribbean", bringing the actor's sexy, bedraggled look to the Paris catwalk.
Transforming the Theatre des Bouffes du Nord into the deck of a pirate ship, Galliano sent out an array of costumes fit for the sea-faring set: full-leg trousers cinched with wide sashes under cropped military-type jackets.

The costumes will be greatly modified before hitting the store racks, but who cares? Galliano loves putting on a great show, and he delivered with his second menswear collection.

5 July 2004

Men In The Mix

Wow! The Milan men's shows have given a fresh edge to men's fashion where a breath of fresh air was long overdue. From Alexander McQueen's new collection to Prorsum and Prada, men next Spring will have plenty to choose from when it comes to looking fabulous.

Burberry Prorsum rocked the week with one of Bailey's most playful collections to date. Cotton country-check drainpipe trousers in red, white and blue were teamed with intarsia sweaters and fitted jackets. Emerald trousers mixed with azure coloured tops, stripey polo-knits and white macs. A dark pin-stripe suit was worn with v-neck white and red strip knits and a bright yellow tie as the must-have accessory..

Miuccia Prada's collection was an ode to the modern global traveller. Elegant yet lightly constructed trousers and suits were worn with luxurious silk-wool cardigans and superthin cashmere in earthtones, misty orange, petrol and military colours. A whisper of nostalgia reminding of 70s beach holidays in the Americas with pieces such as oft-patterned Hawaiian shirts and Brazilian knee-length shorts worn with leather sandals.

Alexander McQueen showed his romantic side as well as his fascination with the underworld. His second venture into menswear proved his talent once more with military themes updated with modern tailoring and mixed with hues of bright yellow (it looked striking on a silk jumpsuit) and hot pink knits and trousers.

Dolce & Gabbana showed what Italians do best: classic, yet modern tailoring. Although less sexy and racy than perhaps expected (the sexiest item being the barely-there swimming trunks) the duo designed a more traditional collection, but with signature pieces such as plunging v-necks in camel and lots of black for that Southern Italian look.

1 July 2004

New Menswear

This season sees a revival of great menswear and labels such as Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan and Veronique Branquinho have some highly inspirational and wearable collections. For the more adventurous dressers among you, try John Galliano or next season Alexander McQueen. You certainly can't beat British talent when it comes to the left-playing field of mainstream fashion.

Check-out the refurbished menswear department at Liberty for Viktor & Rolf and Harvey Nichols for John Galliano.

8 April 2004

Menswear Debuts On Net-A-Porter Website

Online designer retailer net-a-porter is showing menswear on its website for the first time. A small selection of men's fashion and accessories from Maharishi, Missoni, Martine Sitbon and Juicy Couture is featured on the "For Him" gift page of www.netaporter.com.

www.netaporter.com
3 February 2004

Zegna Extends Younger Line

Luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna is extending its younger diffusion line Z Zegna to offer more of a fashion edge and attitude than the main Zegna collection.

The first collection will be available at Matches, Cruise and Jules B this spring.

30 January 2004

Pitti Uomo Sees Fall In British Buyers

The number of British and Irish buyers at Pitti Uomo in Florence dipped last week as some casualwear retailers chose to make Bread & Butter in Berlin the only stop on their European show calendar.

The lower turnout was also linked to a strike by Italian air traffic controllers on Thursday, the first day of Pitti, which caused the cancellation of many flights.

The number of British buyers fell by 12.4 per cent to 869 from 993 last January. Irish attendance dropped from 118 to 82, according to organizer Pitti imagine. Overall there were 2,137 visitors, an increase of 0.4 per cent.

Menswear retailers happy to see the back of a tough 2003 were disappointed to find no strong trends for autumn 04. Although there was a move to more luxury and design detail at the top end of the market, for better-end retailers and for casualwear buyers there was little new to inspire them or their consumers.

21 January 2004

Sensitive Souls

Men as a rule don't wear womenswear, but next summer everything changes. Feminine touches added a little sensitivity to many collections, giving them an emotional dimension rather than a novel, camped-up shock value.

At Fendi, sheer shirting and barely-there loose-knit tee's were provocatively layered, while Ennio Capasa's collection for Costume National featured low-slung, wide-open-necked tops as well as halter-necks. And that's not all. Yohji Yamamoto's mainline collection was based around the skirt. Teamed with lace-detailed tailored jackets and bomber jackets, the effect was not only convincing but dramatic and masculine.

Jean Paul Gaultier's models literally strutted down the catwalk - in high heels. After the initial signature showmanship, the collection seductively revealed itself: apron-fronted skirting, kilts, a smattering of luxe sportswear and skin-tight waistcoats worn with neckties.

Hedi Slimane's collection for Dior Homme continued the designer's fascination with the darkly gothic, punky, tailored aesthetic that he has been developing at Dior. There was more denim, more colours (silvers, electric reds and blues), but the lines remained just as strict, with the result being a more modern, optimistic feeling.

29 December 2003

Men Go Vintage

Bored of punk and weary of the futurists, autumn 2004 is going to be a year of vintage dressing and going back to our roots. A tailoring-focused trend is already making its way into the mainstream and luxury fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren and Dries van Noten have brought back the elegance of the early vintage decades.

Back to the days of the silver screen greats, with clothing that recreates that age of refinement and elegance from the 20s to 40s, traditionally-crafted suits are key. But when the man is off duty, he opts for retro on-the-piste 1930s alpine sportswear.

Think herringbones, checks and quilted wool jersey in couture greys, aged champagne tones and soft caramels. Key pieces will be fine-knit sleeveless waistcoats, monogrammed shirts and the chicest of leather gloves.

20 December 2003

Vavavoom Back in Menswear

Last night saw the launch of Vavavoom menswear label at the trendy East-end haunt Cargo. The collection combines the most exquisite fabrics with simple, masculine shapes, in chocolate, burnt red and white tones

Designed by Marcelo Toleda, the focus isn't solely on the clothes; Vavavoom aims to give a percentage of profits to their 'street children' charity in Brazil, by paying a proper wage to production workers in emerging economies and selling the range to affluent people in the West.

Vavavoom will be available in Selfridges later this year.

www.vavavoom.com
11 September 2003

It's a Boy Thing

The biggest trend for the fall collections is menswear. Menswear incorporated into womenswear, that is. As men's style jackets in pinstripes hit the catwalks, we are reminded of Marlene Dietrich crossing the gender divide and making the masculine sexy.

Designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Prada and Costume National have all tailored their silhouettes in gender-bending ways and mixed the masculine with the feminine in a conceptual composite. No longer content with the aesthetic of the early nineties, a modern spin on what is beautiful is the new buzz in designer fashion. As Dolce & Gabbana recently commented: "There is nothing more sexy than a women wearing an exquisite suit, showing only a hint of what lies beneath."

Leading the androgynous runway shows are Swedish model Madeleine Blomberg, star of the Miu Miu campaign, and stunning 19 year-old Canadian model, simply and appropriately named Ben.

But don't interpret the boy meets girl trend as fashion rebellion. The bold makes room for the elegant and the ambiguity lies not in the clothes but in the eye of the beholder.

3 July 2003

Men take on the catwalk

After the haute couture shows for women, now it's time to see some masculinity. Will the suit make a comeback, will a more laid-back look be in, or will we see a savvy mix of the two? A waiting world will learn the answers to these and many other questions when some sixty designers, starting Friday, unveil their visions for men's clothing for autumn-winter 2003-04.

The growing interest in men's fashion in recent years due to the arrival or return of some of the industry's biggest names - Hedi Slimane for Christian Dior, Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Helmut Lang, to name a few - has not abated. The cream of the crop will be joined by several newcomers to the men's scene like Veronique Branquinho and Germany's Bernhard Willhelm.

Dutch avant garde duo Viktor and Rolf will show off their men's line in a Paris showroom after a victorious runway show in Florence last week. Ford (YSL) has pared down the guest list for his runway show to about hundred fortunate invitees. Men's fashion week in the French capital is set to run through Tuesday. We'll keep our ears and eyes open…

January 25, 2002