Fashion Fringe finalist announced

The prestigious fashion competition Fashion Fringe has announced the four finalist who each show their collection during London Fashion Week in September: Graeme Armour, Andrea McWha, Degan Agatonovic and duo Maki Aminaka Lofvander and Marcus Wilmont

2007 will be the fourth year of Fashion Fringe, the hottest thing to hit British fashion in the last 20 years. Created in 2004 by IMG, under the creative direction of Colin McDowell and with the support of Red Bull, the challenge is to re-invigorate the fashion industry in the UK . Fashion Fringe aims to nurture cutting edge, iconoclastic talent in design and find the creativity to continue the tradition Britain has long been famous for.

Fashion Fringe chairman Tom Ford told Vogue: “We're pleased with the level of candidates. So many of them were so balanced, they were technically good and they were very good during the interviews. Fashion Fringe is very good at fostering young British designers. Last year I stepped in at the last minute, just for the show, but it's great to be involved form the start. I've been surprised by the level of talent and it will be nice to follow the four finalists as you know the history. A few of the semi-finalists were too commercial and some thought more about creativity and less commercially. We were looking for a balance of both things. You can't be a designer if no one is buying your clothes."

www.fashionfringe.co.uk
16 May 2007

Luella Bartley will show in London

It is finally confirmed, Luella Bartey will show her Spring Summer 2008 during London Fashion Week this September. Bartley follows on the heels of Marc Jacobs, who also showed his line in London when he opened his first UK boutique in the same week. Bartley is opening her first London store on Brook Street this summer. It's not yet confirmed whether Bartley will continue to show in London after her spring show, a spokeswoman for the designer told WGSN.

Bartley, who has shown her collection in New York since September 2001, has long drawn on London as inspiration for her work. Her first show in London in February 2000 was called "Daddy, who were the Clash?" and she has since channeled everything from the Sloane Rangers to Mods. Next up for Luella is a store opening in Hong Kong in September, while a shop-in-shop unit opened in Takashiyma in Tokyo in March.

www.luella.com
3 May 2007

Basso & Brooke at LFW

Basso & Brooke dedicated their spring summer 2007 collection to travels of yore, referencing worldly luxury from an era before affordable transport, mass tourism, and cheap getaways. Instead, the collection was an homage to the 20s and 30s, seeing delectable animal print flapper dresses, exotic headscarves, Amazonian costumes and the most intricate couture that could rival that of Dior.

Since winning the Fashion Fringe competition in 2006, Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke have landed AEFFE manufacturing to produce their clothes - the same company that produces Alberta Ferretti - secured New Generation sponsorship as well as having their exuberant clothes of vibrant prints, this season illustrated with the help of designer Vanessa da Silva, bought by exclusive stockists such as Harrods and Harvey Nichols.

Yesterday's show didn't disappoint, although one wonders how many Basso & Brooke dresses a girl needs. The 'Master Prints' - as they call their painstakingly original creations - cannot be disputed as being anything less than art - is definitely where their strengths lie. A more diverse and versatile collection would probably have made buyers happier and granted a wider audience.

The show's after party, held in association with the colourful Super Super magazine at Tantra club in Soho, was a big success. With a dance floor lighting up in sync with the best tracks, revellers danced to a mishmash of 80's and 90's grooves 'til the early hours, without the customary free bar.

www.bassoandbrooke.com
www.vanessadasilva.com
19 September 2006

Falling out of fashion

London Fashion Week isn't always about non-stop glamour. Yesterday, at the Gharani Strok SS07 presentation, a model teetering on the most uncomfortable shoes unexpectedly tripped on the catwalk - in Naomi Campbell-style - but this time landed in the lap of a startled front row buyer.

The other unglamorous event is the size 0 debate which continues to be an issue. Yesterday supermodel Erin O'Connor waded into the controversy, and said, "all opinions are welcome" as to whether underweight models should be banned from the catwalk. To be clear, the issue is not about models being thin, rather it is about girls who dare not put on a single pound in case it is the end of their careers.

Thankfully the spirit of London Fashion Week wasn't tainted and last night saw an animated fashion crowd party en masse. Revellers began at the B-store party on Savile Row, quickly moving onto the neighbouring opening of the new PPQ store on Conduit Street. 43 South Molton hosted two glamorous events, the first being a fashion talk by author Ian Kelly on Beau Brummell: sex, scandal and celebrity: the birth of British fashion. After which the Premiere Models party, which attracted a very glamorous crowd who partied until the early hours this morning.

19 September 2006

Christopher Kane debuts at LFW

Christopher Kane's much anticipated London Fashion Week debut didn't disappoint. The New Generation sponsored designer showcased a brassy collection that will appeal to a kind of woman as he describes: "doesn't do demure, doesn't do nice, and doesn't do her own laundry."

Whilst the collection was certainly a high-octane combination of confident sexuality with boudoir chic, there was a certain sophistication that lacked. Block colour dresses in shorter-than-short lengths were teamed with swarovski crystal, or with nude or black ruffled lace. Whilst the look is definitely fresh, lace shoulder detailing accessorised with rock & roll rings, it hardly constitutes British avant-garde design at its best, nor is it an easy aesthetic to wear.

The highlight of the show was its opening when models wore fresh, bright, neon-coloured belted dresses. References to early Gianni Versace were apparent, but this time round more directional and edgy. Definitely not for the faint-hearted or those with body mass index issues.

www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
21 September 2006

London Fashion Week talk of the town

September's London Fashion Week is going to be fabulous, creative, and commercial, according to industry insiders. Now that the British Fashion Council has appointed its new head, there seems to be a lot more happening in the week, starting with live broadcasting, a new London Fashion Week bag designed by Jas M.B., and events such as Fashion Fringe and Fashion East all headlining in the same week.

But London has had a tough time in comparison to other cities. In Milan , for example, it was natural for buyers and press to flock to Italy for the shows, as that is where the manufacturers and designers were based. Similarly, in France the shows supported its couture, which was also unique thus attracting a global audience. London has no manufacturing nor couture, rather, it was creativity and diversity of talent that was its selling point.

Now, it seems, all eyes are back on what many say is the most directional fashion capital of the world. With over 50 trendsetting designers to show at Fashion Week and many more in the exhibition, London is a new international force to be reckoned with. The BFC is pulling out all stops to attract international buyers and big names such as Paul Smith and Giorgio Armani, who's commercially important collections will bring equilibrium to more directional and avant-garde fashion.

London is by far the place where fashion ideas start, where creative talents bloom and were flourishing businesses are born. This season, Armani will show in London , as will Basso & Brooke, Christopher Kane, Paul Smith and Giles.

www.londonfashionweek.com
25 July 2006

Exhibitors air grievances about LFW

Brands showing at London Fashion Week have challenged the last minute changes in scheduling of The Exhibition after visitor numbers fell by 20 per cent. The catwalks ran from Tuesday to Saturday, but there was a two-day wait before the exhibition began, which ran it's own course until Sunday. Exhibiting brands said the gap confused buyers and numbers fell by 4,000 from 5,000, according to Drapers Record.

London Fashion Week this season, for the first time in 4 years, was visited by Anna Wintour: an enormous publicity boost for the ailing fashion week. A source told Drapers as "There's been a lot of spin about how well the show did and all the people who came. It's all well and good to have top executives from Barney's and Bergdorf Goodman, but those guys don't write orders. The actual buyers were in Milan and Paris."

This was the first LFW under then new British Fashion Council executive Hilary Riva.

London Fashion Week parties

LFW is as synonymous with directional design as it is with rousing parties and decadent events, and this season was no exception. Champagne flowed in abundance throughout the week's events (starting at 9.30 am at most shows). The parties started with Patrick Cox's luncheon at the Sanderson Hotel, where his new muse Elizabeth Hurley - star of his spring summer ad campaign - co-hosted a stylish lunch. Julian MacDonald's after-show party, where the now infamous anti-fur campaign featuring a scantily-clad Paris Hilton took place, was held in Cocoon.

Other events included the Lulu Guiness Couture bash at the Baglioni Hotel, where models such as Elizabeth Jagger danced the night away.

But Friday night was the evening of the AAA-list parties, including the Vogue pre-Bafta Bash, as hosted by UK and US editors Alexandra Shulman and Anna Wintour's in Cicconi's, and fashion packed parties held by Colette and Dover Street Market and the Acne Jeans party. The former chose the Atlantic Bar & Grill (now known as the Astor) - where revelers danced to electric beats in a pillared and disco-ball setting, and the latter was held at private member's bar 43 South Molton Street. Whereas at Colette the crowd had to pay for drinks (a fashionista is used to having an open bar - always) at 43 there was non-stop flowing Laurent Perrier and Reyka Vodka (and hence a never-ending queue of fashionistas trying to gain entry to 43B, the boutique basement club).

But no matter how many parties there were, or how much champagne was consumed, the truly dedicated fashion follower would have made it back to the Natural History Museum for a 9.30am start of the Central Saint Martins MA show on Saturday morning.

18 February 2006

Wintour is here

Anna Wintour's presence in London has not gone by unnoticed. In fact, wherever the US Vogue editor travels, a wave of attentiveness seems to overcome even the hardest of fashionistas. Ms Wintour, who's front row look comprises of Chanel glasses, Manolo heels and her infamous scissored bob, does her utmost to remain expressionless at the shows (hence the oversized glasses) to not influence the media in writing good or bad reviews.

Wintour, according to the Telegraph, will use London Fashion Week to catch up on established and new talent. Shows by Paul Smith, Aquascutum, Nicole Farhi and Giles Deacon are on her schedule, along with the New Generation designers, such as Gareth Pugh, Roksanda Illincic and Basso & Brooke, who are sponsored by Topshop.

On Friday, she will co-host a London Fashion Week cocktail party with Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue. And Saturday has been put aside to preview collections by young talents from Fashion East, and by Erdem Moralioglu, last year's Fashion Fringe winner.

17 February 20006

Paul Smith opts for the masculine

Paul Smith yesterday showed his autumn/winter 2006 Blue women's collection, inspired by masculine tailoring. Called the Men Only collection, models wore masculine trouser suits in sludgy shades of brown and schoolboy grey, crisp, white shirts worn with skinny-rib knitted vests and snake belts, traditional crombies and, of course, that mainstay of the androgynous wardrobe - men's brogues, all redesigned to suit the female form. According to one editor, these were real clothes that will please modern women who would rather not dress up like the proverbial Christmas tree.

But in true Paul Smith style, feminine flourishes came later. If the more masculine side of the show was an ode to movie siren Katherine Hepburn, the 1940s were also much in evidence in the form of velvet polka dot tea dresses, paisley-print chiffons and more directional clothing that seemed to reference the Belgian designer, Ann Demeulemeester.

Fashion's avant-garde has been taking a back seat for some time now and is ripe for revisiting. It's been quite a month for Smith. Last week, Smith sold a 40 per cent stake in his business to his long-time Japanese licensee, Itochu, for an undisclosed sum. If Smith is a household name in this country, in Japan he is a superstar. With a global wholesale turnover approaching £230m - 54 per cent comes from menswear, 28 per cent from accessories, 14 per cent from womenswear and 4 per cent from shoes - he is one of British fashion's great success stories.

In this country alone, he has 16 stores and has just opened a home interiors and accessories shop in Albemarle Street and a boutique near Borough Market, both in London . Smith insists that this latest turn of events was not a sell out/merger late Nineties-style but a natural progression that will allow his wife and business partner, Pauline, time to spend with their family.

17 February 2006

Allegra Hicks on true form

Allegra Hicks is on true form this season, and continues the theme of 70's reviving bohemian shapes with a modern look at luxurious prints. Shades of greens, grey-purples and next seasons colour blue form the basis of the collection and the richness of prints and softness of fabrics underline its subtle sophistication.

Hicks is further continuing her collaboration with Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo following the success of the wedge. This season sees the launch of the zip-up lace boot in devore velvet. Inspired by the futuristic funky shapes of Ferragamo's earlier shoes and the signature motifs of Allegra Hicks, the collection has an irresistible retro fee. Fusing exquisitely feminine lines with sophisticated graphic prints, there is a new found energy to these creations. Te exclusive range offers shoes and boots lined with super-soft leathers and delicate velvets, with customized laces and brading.

www.allegrahicks.com
17 February 2006

Topman and Fashion East present London menswear

London Fashion Week got off to a soaring start with the debut of Fashion East and Topman Design menswear shows on Tuesday.

Topman Design was definitely the highlight of the evening, promising a runway of dark gothic horror starring solemn looking boys. Whilst Fashion East seems to attract many directional guises, Topshop stole the show and presented a collection of revolutionary menswear. Coachman jackets were paired with laundered dress shirts and narrow printed jeans. Sharp-double breasted tailoring resonated with Dior Homme inspiration but was less stiff. Tie-neck shirts, biker boots and plaid baseball jackets topped off the looks. Obviously not for the fashion faint-hearted.

43 place to be during London Fashion Week

43 South Molton is lending its support to London Fashion Week by opening its premises as LFW's off-site greenroom.

Buyers, journalists and all those associated with fashion week can enjoy the exclusive membership facilities of 43 between catwalk shows, shopping and buying the Autumn/Winter 2006 collections. Sponsored by Moet & Chandon, drinks and lunch will be offered at special prices for west-end fashionistas.

43 is further hosting an exclusive exhibition of Catherine Malandrino's AW/06 collection, available at Harvey Nichols. London Fashion Week's coolest parties - including the Haunch of Venison Gallery and Acne Jeans events - will be held at the Mayfair club this week.

Londoners show in New York

That British designers defect to show abroad once their names become internationally know is not novel. In fact, it's almost expected, as London Fashion Week cannot secure the world press like it's sister shows in Paris and Milan.

Matthew Williamson, the darling of the British media and London it-girls, showed his AW06 collection in New York. Not getting great reviews - at least not from Womenswear Daily - who said his collection was reminiscent of something from the film 'The Ice Storm'. Williamson, who's bohemian style is perhaps not so relevant next season, did manage to incorporate the new mood and silhouette into his collection. Models sashayed down the runway in pretty dresses and bow blouses, reminiscent of his best. One of Williamson's most stunning pieces was aboucle-and lame coat. For the latter, you better place your order now.

Alice Temperley of Temperley London was also wooed by New York and this season showed she is worthy of dressing red-carpet events in Hollywood Style. Inspired the by 30s and 40s, Temperley's collection depicted a glamour we hadn't seen from her before. Grey velvet smokings, embroidered cropped jackets, and sweater jackets hinted to a Hollywood of yore.

Given Temperley's recent move in LA - her shop on Melrose Place is a big success with the Hollywood A-list, we'll be seeing a few of those gowns at the Oscar's, no doubt.

14 February 2006

Menswear back on LFW agenda

London Fashion Week is about to see a spark of menswear designers show their collections on the catwalks, at what has traditionally been a week dominated by women's ready-to-wear and accessories. British menswear is enjoying a renaissance and is coming to back to a week heralded for its quality of new design talent. Rumour has it that MAN - a group of five your designers and Topman Design - will be one of the hottest shows of the week and even the head of the British Fashion Council is expected to attend.

The Paris menswear in January ignited fashionistas to talk about the UK's new talent. Even New York Fashion Week mentioned the inspiring and new ideas coming through in British menswear. And many of the new talented menswear designers are women. Man designers Ann-Sofie Back, Deryck Walker, Lotta Skeletrix and Topman Design all are dominated by women.

With the launch of two new men's style magazines last year - GQ Style and Jefferson Hack's Another Man, it seems as if men are less and less embarrassed to all about fashion and are becoming more and more fashion savvy.

LFW off-schedule shows published

The organizer of London Fashion Week's off-schedule shows, On/Off, has revealed its list of cat catwalk presentations, shows and times. Designers to show their AW06 collections off-schedule include Ben de Lisi, Karen Walker, Tristan Weber, Katarzyn Szczotarska, PPQ and Jessica Ogden. On/Off takes place on February 15-17 at the Royal Academy of Ats, Burlington Gardens , London . The full schedule is available at www.thedoll.org/onoff

7 February 2006

New Generation Sponsorship

London Fashion Week's most sought after sponsor - New Generation Sponsorpship - has been allocated to designers Gareth Pugh and Richard Nicholl. The financial support allows the designers to show on the catwalk at London Fashion Week without having to worry about venue hire, stylists, lighting and all those things requiring big budgets.

Louise Goldin, Danielle Scutt and 2005's Fashion Fringe winer Erdem Moralioglu are among those who have also received sponsorship to show at The Exhibition at London Fashion Week, which runs from February 15-19 at the Natural History Museum.

Caroline Charles to show at LFW

Caroline Charles, the eponymous designer from her namesake label from the 60s, is set to return to the catwalk for AW/06 after a ten-year absence. Charles is planning a catwalk show in February at the Royal Academy of Art. The label also returns to Selfridges in spring 06 with a concession stocking a selection from her three labels.

These include luxury suits from the London line and the younger, more casual Carline label. Selfridges will also carry her more expensive Studio range inspired by antique textiles. The spring 06 collections feature 1950s-style white cropped trousers, coloured jeans and polka dot silk sundresses. The designer has three stores in London, shops in Cheltenham and Tunbridge Wells, and concessions in the Manchester and London Harvey Nichols stores. Charles is probably best known for her elegant evening and occasionwear.

LFW organiser plan consumer show

Single Market Events, the organiser behind the exhibition at London Fashion Week is targeting high street players with the launch of consumer event High Fashion. The event is planned for London's Olympia from March 16-19 and will present a series of catwalks showcasing the latest high street collections over three days.

23 October 2005

Shop till you drop

Run, don't walk, to get tickets to this season's London Fashion Weekend. Hot on the heels of the internationally acclaimed London Fashion Week, the organisation is giving people the unique opportunity to shop for exceptional designer brands at as much as 50 percent off.

Choose from over one hundred designers, who participated in the Exhibition during London Fashion Week at the event's venue on the lawns of the Natural History Museum. Gorgeous labels like Gharani Strok, Billy Bag, Ben de Lisi, Temperley, Orca and Juicy Couture will be selling their collections at reduced prices. Furthermore, while there you can treat yourself to a massage or a manicure and enjoy the Skinny Cow Ice Cream Bar and the Topshop Café among others.

For tickets go to www.londonfasionweek.co.uk or call 0870-8900097. Tickets are limited, so move quickly. The event runs from Thursday 22 September until Sunday 25 September.

London parties get a bad rep

The Evening Standard has launched an investigation into the use of cocaine at high profile parties during London Fashion Week. Events hosted by Donatella Versace, TopShop and Alexander McQueen were all tested for traces of cocaine in their lavatories, all of which proved positive. The investigation was instigated after supermodel Kate Moss last week was revealed by The Mirror as using the class A drug.

Yesterday's parties, hosted by the likes of Patrick Cox, Tank magazine at 43 South Molton and Eley Kishimoto / Ellesse no doubt also had its revelers dabbling with the drug. One wonders if the execution of such tests reveal anything that isn't already widely known. While the fashion industry may be notorious for its frivolity, the scrutiny of its movers and shakers seems highly unnecessary, if not totally unfashionable.

21 September 2005

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders, who yesterday unveiled his Spring Summer 06 collection at London Fashion Week, showed he really is the master of avant-garde, innovative print. The Central Saint Martins graduate, who's show was sponsored by his native Scotland , and Swarovski, presented studded shift dresses with crystal and woven strips of fabric into the most elegant of gowns.

His graphic patterned clothes, which are sold at Harvey Nichols and Harrods, included impressive colour and fabric innovations inspired by 60s art. No wonder Roland Mouret and Pucci have hired him to consult for their housees.

21 September 2005

LFW does its reputation proud

Celebrities and fashion power houses like Jemima Khan, British Vogue's Alexandra Schulman and the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes turned up for Eley Kishimoto's show on Tuesday afternoon. The collection was entitled Cosmic Dolls on Earth, a most befitting term, as the models sashayed down the catwalk like Jacke O on acid. Prim blouses were paired with playful penicl shirts, collarless ladylike suits were worn in light cottons and psychedelic flower print dresses were worn either belted or as loose shifts. Fitted high-waisted trousers and jumpsuits called to mind images of WWII starlets singing Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy.

Jumping between the forties and the sixties for inspiration, the design duo - Wakako Kishimoto and Mark Eley founded the brand in 1992 - showed a penchant for bold, crazy colours employed in rainbow prints and oversized polkadot dresses. One hot pink shift featured an embellishment of pearls around the neckline and down the front. In line with other shows, crochet made an appearance, reminding me to take it up as a hobby asap!

London Fashion Week is known for its departure from the norm. It is not about predicting the trends in so much as it is a forum for self-expression for both many a young and up-and-coming designer as for the more experienced designers. On Wednesday morning John Rocha proved this to be true with the unveiling of his new collection. Deconstructed dresses, jackets, and tops paired with skinny trousers, pedal pushers and pencil skirts created an off-kilter silhouette. Evening dresses adorned with flower appliqués appeared long in front and cutoff at the top of the thigh in the back, creating an element of surprise.

Rocha takes the conventional and turns it into something unusual, whether it be the quirky use of materials like lace, silk and crochet or the finishing touches, like enormous oversized bows in silk and in lace at the neck or at the waist. Employing asymmetry in the hem lines and silhouette only adds to the sense of the unexpected. Meanwhile, Rocha's use of colour is predominantly muted and subtle, with the occasional bursts of colour in chiffon and lace. Wednesday continues with shows from Jasper Conran, Bora Aksu, Antoni & Alison, Robert Cary-Williams and Frost French among others.

21 September 2005

Julien MacDonald

London Fashion Week kicked off yesterday with some high-profile shows. Julien MacDonald's spring/summer 2006 attracted a vast crowd all clamouring to eye his latest creations. He did not disappoint.

The models sashayed down the catwalk in a riot of tropical prints in vibrant colours. Evening dresses in jewel tones were embellished with marabou trim and sparkling sequins. Long gingham dresses alternated with flirty crocheted numbers. Silhouettes were glamorous and seductive, including lots of halter necks and body skimming shapes.

The only damper on the show was an unwelcome guest appearance by PETA activists protesting the use of fur in fashion. Odd choice, since there was no fur in sight. MacDonald, wearing a glittering Brittanica jacket, took it like a pro during his walk of glory, never breaking his stride or his wide smile. Then again, he really is a pro.

19 September 2005

Basso & Brooke triumph at London Fashion Week

How do Basso & Brooke find the time to design when there illustrative work must require 'round the clock drawing? The Fashion Fringe winners replaced their controversial images of sprouting genitalia and instead concocted the most exquisite prints and colours imaginable.

Layered ra-ra dresses, theatrical eveningwear and even a nod to Mini Mouse with bow-tie headgear and frilly tulle socks couldn't take away the awe of these two talented designers. Black and white graphic ruched dresses were worthy of any red carpet moment, as were the strapless dresses in graphite or white yellow print.

Spanish parasol dresses in vivid colours of bright fuchsia and yellow shown in the finale were pure Dior-style theatrics. Still, the eighties silhouette of power-dressing made a return, albeit in a softer cut. Rock n roll leggings were teamed with waistcoasts or smouldering chiffon tops. All wearable, all distinctly Basso & Brooke.

20 September 2005

Manish Arora

The first day of London Fashion Week concluded with an opulent and outrageous show by LFW newcomer Manish Arora. Arora, a couture veteran and an obviously loyal client base, was not one to shy away from the challenge of showing at such an iconic event. His show started with an exotic dance performance, after which the models emerged, faces adorned with colourful glitter, wearing what can only be called psychedelic colours and shapes. Arora played with traditional silhouettes like the late nineteenth century bustle, interpreting it in his own quirky way with a vertical column of discs that resembled a flight of stairs leading upwards. The belting on various pieces recalled the Japanese kabuki.

The effect of the evening was one of Bollywood meets Cirque de Soleil; a constellation of riotous colours and shapes that transported one on a journey through the Far East, stopping in India, Thailand, Japan and China without a moment to catch one's breath. Arora demonstrated a predilection for a-line shirts, military style coats with an abundance of prints and plenty of gold detailing. Huge collars on jackets recalled gorgeous warrior princesses, while extravagant epaulettes conjured up images of the latest in military styles.

Arora displayed a fear of minimalism; each surface of material featured prints or adornments, with the models looking like exotic butterflies. Not for the faint of heart, but certainly not predictable, Arora represents the kind of designer who likes to shake this up a bit. With a standing ovation, it is safe to say that he seems to have hit the right notes.

19 September 2005

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week got off to a confrontational start with the first big show of the week being domineered by uninvited PETA supporters. Anti-fur protestors, in a frenzied rage, shot onto Julian MacDonald's catwalk to demonstrate against the use of fur in his collections. Surprisingly, his show featured little fur, or none that was apparent to many editors and buyers that were present. Instead, MacDonald focussed his collection around glamourous and wearable dresses and his signature spider knits - showing his craftmenship as one of Britain's best-known knitwear if not red-carpet designers.

The hottest ticket to the shows on Sunday was the Spring Summer 06 catwalk presentation by genius designer Giles Deacon. The show, which last season featured a stunning Linda Evangelista - back on form and out of temporary retirement especially for Giles - was yesterday attended by Donatella Versace - who was also hosting a dinner for Giles. Ms Versace is her herself hosting a party on Monday, to celebrate the opening of her new London boutique.

London Fashion Week, which may not draw the big names that show in New York, Milan and Paris, is on the contrary a hotbed for young designers that even if the major houses don't show here, they like to throw parties in lieu. Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Versace and Dior are all hosting parties during London Fashion Week, although none are showing in the capital. The McQueen party - of which the date and location weren't revealed, but is rumoured to take place this evening - will no doubt be one of the week's highlights when it comes to aftershow parties . But then again, so will the Tank party, Patrick Cox's 20 th anniversary party, oh, and did we mention the GQ Style party and the Wallpaper* party on Thursday?
So many parties, so little shows?

19 September 2005

Fashion SuperBlow

Saturday will see the launch of SuperBlow, a behind-the-scenes frock-umentary taking place at the Kemistry Gallery on Charlotte Road in honour of London Fashion Week.

Contributors include last year's Fashion Fringe winners Basso & Brooke as well as Dazed & Confused editor Nicola Formichetti. SuperBlow 3/London Fashion Week Launch Event, Saturday September 17, 18:30 - 22:30 at Kemistry, 43 Charlotte Rd, EC2.

16 September 2005

London Fashion Week schedule a mystery

Anyone who is trying to plan around the hectic schedule of London Fashion Week will have to be patient as delays to the schedule mean designers have not been allocated time slots. The schedule, which is imperative for buyers and press to organise in one of the most chaotic weeks of the season, is currently being re-worked after the British Fashion Council was forced to change the running order. Rumour has it that the late application of Clements Ribeiro to show on schedule meant other designers had to wait for their given slot.

According to last week's Draper's Record, Clements Ribeiro, which went into liquidation in July, is understood to have secured backing to help relaunch the label. This has cased the BFC an extra headache as it struggles to slot the duo on to the calendar. A provisional schedule is normally released a month before the event, but designers did not know their show times last Friday, just over two weeks prior to the start of the event, which takes place from September 18 th to 22 nd . Some had been tentatively advised as to which day their show may take place but were expressly told not to go ahead with confirming bookings or printing show invitations.

A spokeswoman for the BFC stated: "We have 55 designers on the schedule and we are working day and night to give everyone the best slot we can. We are doing all sorts of juggling." Designers are unable to send invitations to buyers and press until they have been allocated a precise slot.

4 September 2005

Shop at London Fashion Week

Shop where fashions start. The Evening Standard London Fashion Week-end in association with Elizabeth Arden is 4 days of pure retail therapy, where more than 100 London Fashion Week designers will be selling their collections at reduced prices including the likes of Phlip Treacy, FrostFrench, Orla Kiely, Temperley, Ronit Zilkha, Betty Jackson, Lulu Guinness, Juicy couture to name a few.

Tickets are strictly limited to ensure a stress-free luxury shopping experience, and should be booked in advance. Ticket prices start at £10 for advance bookings. For tickets call 0870 890 0097 or book online at www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk

1 st September 2005

London Fashion Week Moves Venue Again

London Fashion Week, the neglected sibling of the international fashion world, is moving venues again. This time, however, the move is to its original venue at the Natural History Museum, instead of in King's Road, Chelsea, or faraway Battersea. The British Fashion Council have secured a week between Milan and Paris fashion weeks in September, and will have one catwalk tent and one double-decker tent to house the exhibition.

As was reported by Drapers, BFC chairman Stuart Rose is said to be in discussions with Milan and Paris fashion week organisers to shorten or shift their weeks, so that LFW would have a chance to compete internationally, without overlapping with major shows in other countries.

The change in dates would allow international buyers and press to attend without having to come from New York, meaning they would already be in Europe. This would keep down costs and encourage people to attend, rather than give London the skip due to a compromise in dates. It is generally understood, however, that both Milan and Paris are very protective of their showing dates, and in 2002 neither was prepared to change the schedule to help the overlap with New York on the anniversary of September 11th. New York Fashion Week takes place from 9-16 September, LFW from 18-22 September, Milan Fashion Week is 24 September to 2nd October, and Paris is from 2-11 October.

14 May 2005

Future Of London Fashion Week

What does the future for London Fashion Week hold? The British Council do not seem to wield the same power that organisations in New York, Paris and Milan seem to render, nor do they seem to be able to attract the same level of international buyers and press. Whereas in other countries celebrities, top buyers and designers are flown-in and given a first-class treatment, we tend to send ours on a never-ending journey to an inflatable tent South of the river.

Partly because London doesn't have a 'big name' showing. Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Roland Mouret all show abroad instead of in their home town, LFW simply doesn't draw an influential crowd. Even if talented designers such as Giles are heralded as the 'next big thing' it doesn't inspire Anna Wintour to take the next jet to our capital.

Disappointment wasn't only amongst the quality of designers showing, but also with the exhibition itself - primarily its venue. The move to Battersea Park from Sloane Square and previously South Kensington proved a move in the wrong direction. Not easily reached in terms of transport from Central London, many buyers were delayed on Sunday when Circle and District lines were not running and buses were far and infrequent in between.

The British Fashion Council is hoping that LFW will return to either to Sloane Square or the Natural History Museum next season, but both these venues would only be able to accommodate one catwalk. BFC chief executive John Wilson told Drapers there would be discussions with exhibitors, designers and buyers after the event about the Battersea venue.

As many designers and popular brands have UK agents and showrooms, LFW gets bi-passed for exhibiting. Why would a dynamic, fashionable brand pay thousands of pounds to show at Battersea when it has a central London showroom that is easily accessible? It certainly isn't worth the investment for picking up new international clients, of which few tend to buy new British brands.

The exhibition's increasing focus on lingerie, accessories and footwear was noted by some buyers. Of the 165 brands showing this season, 93 had read-to-wear ranges.

23 February 2005

MA Students Close London Fashion Week

On what other catwalk would you see a pink, rubber trench coat, men in four-inch platform soles, and head-to-toe leopard print outfits? The Central Saint Martin's show is the answer, and it closed London Fashion Week with the MA student's final collections.

This is not only the place to spot outrageous clothes, but where the star designers of tomorrow are identified and recruited. The college is alma mater to Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and John Galliano, and graduates working behind the scenes at brands such as Gucci and Prada.

This year's class was no disappointment. Sophia Amanzi-George opened with bright folkloric dresses trimmed with broderie anglaise and stamped with the odd Chanel logo for good humour. Lee Cleal mixed multicoloured roses, stripes and marbling on A-line jersey dresses. Danielle Scutt, closing the show, used oversized leopard sports for the Thierry Mugler-style belted, figure-hugging dresses.

Professor Louise Wilson, the course director, told The Independent she was optimistic the college would maintain its reputation as a Fame-style fashion academy. Sarah-Ann Creaven won the overall year prize for her photo prints and surrealist dress of fabric chains.

19 February 2005

London Fashion Week Highlights

London Fashion Week finished on a high with Giles' catwalk show at Luke's Church in Clerkenwell. Giles Deacon, who last season rocked the capital with his Egyptology inspired collection, this time proved he is the new star of British fashion.

The Central St Martin graduate showed military knitted dresses in the most ethereal of styles; cabled, patchworked, pompomed - all were delicately and delectably added to the mix. Suits swooped in at the waist and out again to the hips to accentuate the figure. Grand ballgowns in silver, olive, black and racing green velvet were embroidered and worn with baroque shoes featuring giant bows. No wonder Hilary Alexander has coined him the next Alexander McQueen: his couture-esque show was certainly the highlight of the week.

Other designers who showed on Wednesday in cluded Amanda Wakeley, who, after a six year absence proved she could still pull in a-listers such as Sienna Miller and Minnie Driver. Wakeley reworked her signature power suits in second-skin soft leather and showed silk-satin goddess dresses with plenty of red-carpet allure.

Ann-Sofie Back, the avant-garde Swedish designer, started her show with what is normally reserved for the finale. Models came out in rapid succession, clapping,as the designer took a lap of honour down the catwalk. Outfits inspired by the way clothes are folded and styled in shops came out in reverse order.

The Elle Style Awards on Tuesday proved to be the event of the week. Stars such as Cate Blanchett, Kylie Minogue, Will Young and Helena Christensen frolicked to Spittelfields to collect their awards. The ceremony, which is now in its eights season, mixed the cool of the Brits with the chic of the Baftas. Best British Designer award went to Mathew Williamson, best dressed actress to Cate Blanchett, and lifetime achievement award to Kylie Minogue, who looked stunning in a black lace and tulle Chanel dress.

After the awards, the Elle team put on a decadent party. Free-flowing champagne and exquisite chocolate canapés were served as revellers danced to a hip hop soundtrack in the old Truman Brewery.

17 February 2005

London Fashion Week Monday Review

John Rocha seems to be back on fashion form, autumn winter being his seasonal forte. With a career spanning 20 years, this designer has nothing to prove in terms of longevity and his romantic and decorative tailoring is still popular after all this time. Beautiful embellished coats in black and cream - some with an opulant House of Flying Daggers weave -will leave you longing for winter to come.

Jonathan Saunders, who also showed on Monday, has become a highlight on the LFW schedule and a New Generation winner for his now much sought-after prints. This season, Saunders showed intricately engineered graphic prints in kaleidoscopic colours. Each piece designed to work with the shape rather this with the prints. For winter, his shapes are much more fluid, what is certain to please buyers and fans alike.

Temperley showed yet another feminine, flattering collection. Perhaps not so innovative as some of her contemporaries. Beaded evening dresses in silky prints and understated knitwear aspire to a modern glamour, though perhaps not so inspiring.

16 February 2005

London Fashion Week Kicks Off

London fashion week made off to a furry start with Julien MacDonald opening the week with a flamboyant and ultra glamorous collection. Not one to shy away from all things controversial, the Welsh-born designer showed printed rabbit fur coats, jewel-encrusted mink jackets, fox drapes and plush sables.

London may not normally be the place to find so much fur (try Moscow, instead, where MacDonald sells 70 per cent of his order book) and many in the audience were shocked by its abundance on the catwalk. Thankfully his eveningwear of fluted cocktrail dresses, cob-web knits and cardigan-coat for evening made the show more harmonious.

Sinha-Stanic, who were dubbed 'the one to watch,' put on a triumphant first catwalk show. The St Martins-trained duo showed a sophisticated and polished collection of beautifully draped and fitted clothes in classic cream and tonal hues. Luxury group AEFFE, who also manufacture Alberta Ferretti and Moschino, know a winner when they see one and yesterday's show held all the promise of staying power.

Basso & Brooke, who also showed their second catwalk collection in London after winning Fashion Fringe last season, put on a powerful collection of print and imaginative cut. Their penchant for exotic and erotic prints mix symbolism and art-nouveau across flamboyant and dramatic silhouettes. Also under contract with AEFFE, they should have no production worries for next season, and are currently stocked at Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Harrods.

Designers showing at the exhibition include Jonathan Saunders, Madeleine Press, Sara Berman, Emma Cook, Jens Laugesen, Jenny Packham, Lyle & Scott and PPQ. The Moet & Chandon champagne reception went down a treat, and international buyers seemed to have put London back on the fashion map despite the weakened dollar and soaring pound.

14 February 2005