Lola Rose charity jewellery collection

In conjunction with The Breast Cancer Campaign, jewellery label Lola Rose launched a collection of ‘Pink' products of which 20% of the selling price will be donated to the Charity when purchased online. For upcoming season the quirky jewellery company Lola Rose which was set up in 2000 by Nicola Gewirtz, designed a unique jewellery collection together with The Breast Cancer Campaign. The heart symbol is literally the heart of the collection. The range is produced out of rose quartz and purple jade, featuring a pink heart necklace, a heart shaped pendant and a beaded bracelet. The collar and the pendant are available from £65 and the bangles start from £25 up to £50.

The brand Lola Rose has a celebrity following and is worn by the likes of Sarah-Jessica Parker, Angelina Jolie and Halle Berry. TV star Debra Messing of ‘Will & Grace' wore Lola Rose to the Oscars and Kate Middleton was also recently spotted wearing the luxury label.

You can purchase the charity jewellery collection from the Lola Rose website. The charity collection is also available at Whistles and John Lewis, which will donate 10% of the sales to The Breast Cancer Charity. The Breast Cancer Charity is registered by the Charity Commission for England and Wales (Charity No. 299758).

www.lolarose.co.uk
15 August 2007

Asprey executive quits

Asprey jewellers has seen its chief executive, Gianluca Brozzetti, leave the company after six years. Brozzetti has held the post since 2001 and came from LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. On Tuesday Asprey confirmed Brozzetti helped rescue the company from bankruptcy last year, had stepped down.

WWD reported the split with shareholders Sciens Capital Management LLC, a New York-based private equity firm, and Plainfield Asset Management LLC, a Greenwich hedge fund, had been "perfectly amicable,” whilst other industry sources said Brozzetti and the chief shareholders "agreed to disagree, and decided to go their separate ways."

As recently as this month, Brozzetti talked about his plans for the luxury goods brand. He called Asprey a "hidden jewel," and said he planned to open stores in Moscow and New Delhi, expand further into Asia, and build up the product lines with creative director Hakan Rosenius. For the last fiscal year ended March 31, Asprey's sales were $42 million, and while Brozzetti said they were good results, he admitted, "There is still a long way to go."

www.asprey.com
25 July 2007

Garrard no longer Crown Jeweller

British Jeweller Garrard, the oldest jewellery house in the world, has lost its title of official Crown Jeweller after 160 years of being appointed by Queen Victoria. In a bid to move forward, Buckingham Palace has appointed Harry Collins, a relatively unknown company based in Kent. The Palace stated it had no issues with Garrard, and that is was simply ‘time for a change.'

The media, however, have been quick to point out that the recent appointment of pop singer Christina Aguilera as the company's new face may have been regarded as an ‘embarrassment' to the Royal Family. From July 21, Mr Collins will care for the Crown Jewels and the Queen's personal jewellery collection. He will travel to a workshop at Buckingham Palace at least once a week to clean and mend the Queen's many priceless crowns, tiaras, necklaces and brooches.

Queen Victoria originally entrusted the position of Crown Jeweller to Garrard in 1843 and it has held the appointment ever since. The title currently belongs to Garrard employee David V Thomas, 65, a Welsh clockmaker's son who has carried the Queen's personal warrant since 1991. She was not inclined to replace him until his retirement this month and Garrard will still retain three Royal Warrants, according to The Mail.

www.garrard.com
17 July 2007

Sale of minority stake in Stephen Webster

US billionaire Ron Burkle has taken a substanital minority stake in British jeweller Stephen Webster for an undisclosed amount. Burkle's investment vehicle, Yucaipa Companies, is taking a stake of almost 50 percent in Webster, whose creations are favoured by celebrities ranging from Madonna to Elton John. The firm already owns royal jeweller Garrard and is building a portfolio in luxury brands.

For Webster, who was introduced to Burkle through his client Christina Aguilera, the acquisition means more funds to advertise his brand. Until now, he has had to rely mostly on word-of-mouth publicity and on the presence of his seven stores in cities from London to Tokyo.

Webster has plans to expand his business this year. He will be moving in to a bigger location on Bruton Street and will open stores in Kiev and Kazakhstan, and a second store in Moscow. His Russian wife has helped him expand the business in that country. Furthermore, Webster told the FT that he is also considering expanding into China.

www.stephenwebster.com
11 June 2007

Record results for Theo Fennell

British jeweller Theo Fennell has announced pre-tax profits more than doubled to £1.6 million on sales up 30 percent to £25.4 million, compared with £19.4 million last year. Christmas sales and demand for the firm's new collections boosted turnover.

Theo Fennell, which is popular among celebrities like Elton John and the Beckhams, is celebrating is 25 th anniversary this year and is looking to expand its business abroad. The company is said to be in talks to establish a base in the US and will also open its first store in Dubai this year. A second Moscow location is also pending. Furthermore, the brand has plans to expand with new ranges. In February of this year, the group introduced a Theo Fennell fragrance, which contributed to the increase in licensing revenues.

“Following two record years, sales have increased over that period in aggregate by 56 percent and profits by £1.5 million,” said chairman Richard Northcott. “This growth has been driven by the popularity of our design-led and distinctive products, the strength of our brand, our strong established team and our focused expansion programme.”

www.theofennell.com
5 June 2007

Yohji Yamamoto takes on jewellery

For the first time ever, Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto is to turn his attention to designing a line of jewellery. He is joining forces with iconic pearl specialist Mikimoto to develop a new jewellery brand, whose name is as yet being kept a secret. The Japanese houses will create a 20-piece collection focusing on Mikimoto's famed gem of choice, the pearl.

“The pearl is a symbol of feminine perfection, and, in the quintessential universe of fine jewellery, it stands alone,” the jeweller said. “For these reasons, Mikimoto's incomparable reputation for designing, producing and selling the world's finest cultured pearl jewellery made it a perfect choice for Yohji Yamamoto.”

Although Mikimoto has, in the past, launched a fashion designer collection with Badgley Mischka, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang, it is the first time the jewellery house has collaborated with a fashion designer on such an extensive collection. The collection will debut at the Paris couture shows in July, and will be available at Yohji Yamamoto stores and Mikimoto points of sale in Europe and Asia in 2008.

www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp
www.mikimoto.com
11 April 2007

Tiffany's continues expansion, net sales up

US jeweller Tiffany's & Co presented its results for 2006, with net sales up 11 percent to $2.65 billion (£1.35 billion). The company attributed the increase to growth in the US and international markets, except Japan , where sales continued to be weak. Operational profits for the year rose 9 percent, while net earnings experienced a slight dip of 0.3 percent to $254 million. International retail sales reached the $1 billion mark, an increase of 12 percent. US retail sales gained 9 percent to $1.33 billion.

By the end of the fiscal year the company counted 167 Tiffany stores, an 8 percent increase on the year before. Net earnings in the fourth quarter remained essentially flat at $140.5 million on net sales up 15 percent to $986 million. Net income was affected by a charge in the fourth quarter related to the company's subsidiary Little Switzerland.

“We concluded 2006 with strong sales, giving us every reason to believe that Tiffany remains well-positioned to achieve solid sales and earnings growth in 2007 and beyond,” said chairman and chief executive Michael J. Kowalski. He outlined an objective of net sales growth of 11 to 12 percent, adding that the Tiffany's planned to open 17 new stores and boutiques this year, signifying an increase of 10 percent.

“We are now almost two months into the first quarter, and note that total worldwide net sales are slightly above our growth expectations,” he continued. “At the same time, we are seeing a greater than expected shift in sales mix toward higher-end, lower-margin diamond jewellery. Given all that, we believe that earnings are currently on track to achieve our expectations for the first quarter.”

Analyst Melissa Otto at WR Hambrecht & Co maintained a hold recommendation for the company. “We think Japan will continue to be soft and challenging for the company, “ she wrote in a research note, adding that she believes Japan – which is Tiffany's third largest market – will take three years to turnaround. “While the company is making an effort to improve (sales), we think Tiffany's store experience and sales style lags behind its competitors.” Otto anticipates that Europe and Asia will continue to grow at a much faster rate than Japan and the US. On a more positive note, she concluded: “International revenues outside of Japan represent 20 percent of the company's total revenues, and we expect that percentage to edge higher as it continues to focus on growing its brand in other regions.”

www.tiffanys.com
28 March 2007

Swatch profits soar

The world's largest watchmaker Swatch Group AG has reported a leap in net profits for 2006 of 33.7 percent to CHF 830 million (£350 million). Operating profits rose 32.4 percent to CHF 973 million on sales up 12.3 percent to CHF 5.05 billion. The Swiss group, spoke of growth potential for its watch and jewellery brands in all regions and added that 2007 was off to a strong start with “outstanding prospects”.

The watches and jewellery division saw the fastest growth in 2006. Sales rose 13.8 percent to CHF 3.72 billion. Notwithstanding negative currency effects, higher marketing expenses in the US, a hike in gold prices and a new luxury tax in China, operating profit jumped 17.9 percent to CHF 738 million. The group, which counts Breguet, Blancpain, Longines, Rado and Tissot among its brand roster, said all brands in the division experienced growth, including jewellery. The division's result accounts for 76 percent of operating profit.

The results exceeded analysts's expectations. Earlier forecasts included a 27 percent rise in net profits, as opposed to the current 34 percent. “ " We reckon that watch sales will continue to enjoy double-digit growth and that Swatch Group will benefit from the robust high-end demand in the production division, although the strength of demand currently points to delivery bottlenecks," bank Vontobel said in a research note.

More than half the group's operating profit and about a third of its sales are generated by its luxury goods division. During the past ten years the group has transformed itself from a purveyor of cheap, playful watches to a powerful luxury goods group and top-tier watchmaker. Swatch group's shares have risen 10 percent this year, compared with a 1 percent gain for luxury goods group LVMH and an 8 percent drop for Swiss luxury goods group Richemont.

www.swatch.com
21 March 2007

Swarovski to broadcast London fashion shows

Swarovski's relationship with all things fashion continues to dazzle this season with the company highlighting the best of the British catwalk shows on its new online tv station. The major shows from designers such as Christopher Kane, Giles and Jonathan Saunders will be broadcast live on www.swarovkisparkles.tv . Giving you front row access to the most covetable shows of the week.  

Swarovski was launched over a century ago by Damian Swarovski, who discovered a machine for cutting and polishing crystal stones into jewellery. The company currently operates over 600 stores and has its own museum in Wattens, Austria.

www.swarovski.com
12 February 2007

Asprey celebrates 225 th anniversary

British High-Jeweller Asprey is celebrating its 225 th anniversary this year. Last month the prestigious luxury house unveiled its new ‘coat of arms', which has been granted to the company in recognition of the 225 years of ongoing commitment for unique craftsmanship and luxury, by the English Col lege of Arms. The ‘Coat of Arms' is coloured in gold and purple and features Asprey cut diamonds and ancient crowns, surmounted by a phoenix and further inspired the new collection by Asprey creative director Hakan Rosenius to celebrate the 225 th anniversary.

The new collection includes luggage, handbags, watches, cufflinks, scarves, ties, clothing and shoes. Asprey received its first gold medal from Queen Victoria in 1851, as one of the best dressing and travelling-case manufacturers. In the early 1900s, the company expanded further into a number of categories: jewellery, watches, clocks, silver leather goods and stationary. Asprey products and special commissions have been enjoyed by Katherine Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and more recently Elton John and the Beckhams. Asprey, 167 New Bond Street, London.

www.asprey.com
5 January 2007

Asprey profit unlikely till 2008

The troubled 225 year-old fine jeweller and accessories firm Asprey has revealed that it will probably not realize a profit until 2008, two years after its initial forecast. Chief executive Gianluca Brozzetti predicted that the company, which was saved from administration earlier in the year, would break even within 12 to 14 months. Sales for the seven months to October fell 2 percent to £11 million. However, disregarding the effects of the closure of the store in Trump Tower in New York , sales would have climbed 13 percent. According to the company, well-to-do British, American and Russian customers are starting to buy more Asprey products, with bestsellers including the Asprey-banded Alligator handbags, chronograph watches and diamond jewellery.

Asprey was acquired in March by Sciens Capital, a private equity firm and Plainfield Asset Management, a US hedge fund for between $80 million and $100 million. The jeweller recently opened its 18 th store at Takashimaya in Tokyo and retail sales in the first seven months of the year have risen 8 percent. Stripping out the effect of the store closure in New York , the rise would have been 35 percent.

“We are on track with the new owners, who are financially disciplined, helpful and efficient,” he said. The house's former owners, Lawrence Stroll, Silas Chou and Edgar Bronfman Jr, overexpanded the brand, which cost the firm dearly. The jeweller Garard, also owned by the threesome, was sold to The Yucaipa Cos, while Asprey's sale was the result of a management buyout, in which Brozzetti was involved. Since then, the company has been working hard to reduce costs but cutting staff and consolidating rents and office space.

WWD has reported that the jeweller now plans to open a permanent store – moving from its temporary premises on 57 th Street -on Madison Avenue as part of its expansion plan. The store is set to open in April in a property encompassing 6,000 square feet. Asprey declined to comment.

www.asprey.com
5 December 2006

Buccellati opens in London

Italian fine jewellery house Buccellati is opening a store in London before the holiday season starts. The family-owned business is also opening a store in Aspen , Colorado and is reopening its renovated stores in Beverly Hills and New York . The new stores have been designed in the house's signature Italian Renaissance style, but with modern finishings. The boutiques are also intended as locations for social events.

Despite increased retail accessibility, the company insists that is remains exclusive by limiting distribution. “Buccellati isn't for everybody,” the firm's president, Andrea Buccellati, told WWD in an interview. “Our clients are looking for luxury and exclusivity. They want to be part of an inner circle. We're looking to make the Buccellati experience more tailor-made.” Many luxury goods companies are looking to broaden their customer base while maintaining their exclusivity. While expanding its retail presence, Buccellati is placing the emphasis on a more personal rapport with its customers. “We want to be able to have a direct connection (with the consumer),” Buccellati said. “We can sketch pieces together for a customer, or a customer can bring in a stone and we can set it in the Buccellati way.”

Buccellati was established in 1919 and later became known for its engraved brushed gold and platinum jewellery adorned with precious stones, which were designed by Andrea Buccellati and his father. The house only makes 3,000 to 4,000 pieces per year. Prices range from $1,000 to millions of dollars for custom-made pieces. The company launched a watch collection six years ago, with prices averaging at $15,000. Also included in the offering is sterling silver hollowware, which accounts for 30 percent of the business.

www.buccellati.com
27 November 2006

Signet halves UK losses

Signet, the company that owns jewellery businesses H Samuel and Ernest Jones, has announced that it has more than halved its UK losses. Thanks to improved sales on the high street in the three months ended 28 October, the group – which also operates US based Kay Jewelers and Jared the Galleria of Jewellery - managed to reduce operating losses at its UK division to £1.1 million, compared with losses of £2.5 million during the same quarter the year before. UK like-for-like sales increased 3 percent during the quarter. Group sales for the three months to 28 October gained 5.7 percent to £328.2 million, while pre-tax profits rose to £3.8 million, up from £3.0 million. “Group profit before tax in the nine months to date was 12.7 percent ahead of last year,” chief executive Terry Burman said in a statement. “Our US division continued to trade well. Despite trading conditions remaining difficult in the UK jewellery sector, our stores have shown an improved performance in the third quarter.” Burman said that the US and the UK are “in good shape and well placed to compete” but added that full year results would depend on the outcome of the fourth quarter, which accounts for 40 percent of total sales.

www.signetgroupplc.com
22 November 2006

Fergie launches jewellery with a difference

Sarah Ferguson, the Duchess of York, has launched two jewellery lines. Together with K&G Creations, with whom she has a three-year contract, Ferguson has created Sarah Ferguson for K&G Creations, a 400 piece line and the Sarah Ferguson Signature Collection, which consists of 600 pieces. Both ranges will be sold in the US , at shops operated by Finlay Fine Jewellery in department stores like Macy's.
Materials used in the collections include white and yellow gold, coloured quartz, pearls and Moissanite, a colourless crystal. Ferguson chose Moissanite specifically because she feels that “you can wear beautiful things and give people a chance to afford them.” Styles range from the classic to the more modern looks. The prices range from $400 (£210) for a 1-carat stud earring to $18,000 for a limited edition, 18 carat necklace.

Her royalties will go to the Sarah Ferguson Foundation, which supports children's charities. “I really love the fact that, just by doing this, we can bring a smile to a child's face,” she said. “That's what revs my engines.”

21 November 2006

Bulgari accessories gain ground

Fine jeweller Bulgari is focusing increasingly on accessories with the opening of more accessories-only stores. The jeweller has spent the summer redesigning its store on the Via della Spiga in Rome to house accessories. It is currently the company's first store dedicated to accessories in Europe , although it also has such stores in Washington DC , Tokyo and Osaka , Shanghai , Seoul and Bangkok . The next accessories-only store in Europe will open in Florence in December and a third will open in Rome next year, according to WWD, although a Bulgari spokeswoman denied knowledge of any expansion plans. Last year, Bulgari's accessories sales amounted to $98 million (£51.5 million), up 24 percent from 2004. The division generated sales of $60.5 million in the first half of 2006, signifying an increase of 32 percent over the same period in 2005.

The new Rome boutique showcases the company's bags, small leather goods, eyewear – which is created under license with Luxottica- fragrances and scarves for women. These take up the entire ground floor, while the mezzanine is dedicated to men's accessories.

“Accessories are still a contained business for us, but certainly one poised to grow and full of potential, which is why we're opening dedicated shops,” chief executive Francesco Trapani told WWD. The company says it is also considering the option of twin stores, with sites counting over 2,500 square feet divided into two boutiques. One would be dedicated to fine jewellery and watches and the other to accessories. Bulgari has chosen to showcase its accessories collection separately as a result of the fast growing business. Sharing space with fine jewellery was not doing it justice. “Plus, traffic in a jewellery stores is always limited,” Trapani said. The emphasis on quality and exclusivity has, however, remained the focal point, as is demonstrated by the high entry price point. A canvas and leather bag with the Bulgari Bulgari logo retails for $1,300, while canvas and lizard models retail for $2,800. Key chains are available for $127, sunglasses range from $248 to $611 and wallets can cost as much as $954 for a crystal-embellished python style.

www.bulgari.com
25 September 2006

Fashion jeweller raises auditors' concerns

Auditors have questioned the financial strength of a fashion jewellery business linked to retail entrepreneur Gerald Ratner. Although the company, SB&T (UK) Ltd, has the support of shareholders and there is no suggestion that it could collapse, the revelation may prompt questions in the City about Ratner's ability to finance a bid for the UK arm of Signet, which includes H Samuel and Ernest Jones. Ratner is seeking backing for a £200m bid for the business he founded in the 1980s. He lost control in 1991 after a speech in which he joked that a product in his shops was “total crap”. His approaches have been rejected by Signet, but this weekend Ratner said he would push ahead.

Latest accounts filed by SB&T - which supplies jewellery to TV shopping firms and provides services to online retailer Geraldonline.com - includes a warning about its financial strength. In its report to shareholders, auditor BSG Valentine warns “these conditions indicate the existence of a material uncertainty which may cast doubt about the company's ability to continue as a going concern . . . the company is dependent on the financial support of its parent undertaking”. Ratner, a director of the company and major shareholder, dismissed the auditors' concerns. “I'm not in the slightest bit worried. If the company needed an injection of cash, we would put it in,” he said.

4 September 2006

Tiffany's optimistic despite earnings drop

New York-based fine jeweller Tiffany & Co has reported a dip in earnings for the second quarter. Net earnings fell from $50.5 million (£26.5 million) to $41.1 million in the three months ended 31 July. Sales rose 9 percent to $574.9 million, but weaker sales in Japan had an adverse affect on earnings. During a conference call the company did say that it would achieve higher growth in the long term and that it was on schedule to expand its total square footage by 7 percent this year. “Our ongoing plans for store openings and new product introductions sustain our confidence in Tiffany's ability to achieve higher rates of growth for the long term,” said chairman and chief executive Michael J. Kowalski. He said that full-year earnings were estimated to reveal a “low double-digit increase in earnings before income taxes.”

Executive vice president and CFO James Fernandez said during the call that the company is optimistic about its “prospects for 2006 and beyond”. He also spoke of the “opportunity to expand Tiffany's market penetration by entering many new markets”, adding, “We are increasing Tiffany worldwide square footage by approximately 7 percent, which is slightly above our mid-single-digit growth strategy.” Fernandez admitted that the company had been affected by higher production costs and increased costs for precious metals, “but as appropriate are addressing cost pressures through retail price adjustments.” He added that the entire industry was dealing with higher costs and said that “Tiffany is maintaining its competitive position and value proposition.”

International sales increased 10 percent to $223.2 million, while US sales gained 8 percent to $288.6 million. “Growth was seen across a range of product categories, with diamond jewellery maintaining a prominent role in the growth from high-end diamond jewellery to diamond engagement rings to new diamond and platinum pendants,” said Mark Aaron, vice president of investor relations. He added that Tiffany's other relatively new fine jewellery collections, such as the Swing and Legacy collection, continued to provoke a “favourable response”. Silver and gold jewellery also continued to show growth, as did sales of the designer jewellery category, including Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso. The new Frank Gehry jewellery designs were “far exceeding” expectations, despite having only been introduced into one-third of all Tiffany's stores at the end of the second quarter.

www.tiffany.com
4 September 2006

Bulgari revenues growth continues

The Bulgari Group posted a turnover of €243.9 million in the second quarter, up 16.9 percent from the same period last year. Revenues in the first half rose 15.0 percent to €447.8 million. The group's jewellery division, which represents 41 percent of the total, continued to grow 10.4 percent in the second quarter – 9.9 percent in the first half – thanks to the launch of the new Parentesi collection. The company pointed out the strong performance of its watch division, which leapt 21.2 percent in the second quarter (17.9 percent in the first half), boosted by the positive reception the Bulgari Bulgari collection received at the Basel Fair. Meanwhile, perfume sales surged 24.8 percent in the second quarter and accessories enjoyed a particularly strong performance as well. Sales in the Middle East and Europe (20.3 percent and 17.0 percent respectively), excluding Italy , were “outstanding”. Japanese sales were strong as well and the US “showed a positive trend in the quarter” as well. The Far East showed signs of a significant recovery, despite some weak local markets. Chief executive Francesco Trapani reaffirmed his “optimism also for the next months”.

www.bulgari.com
30 August 2006

Apax retract plans for jeweler bid

Apax Partners and Kohlberg Kravis Roberts have abandoned their plans to bid for Signet, the world's largest jewellery retailer. The two private equity groups confirmed last night that they would not be bidding for the retailer, which trades as H Samuel in the UK . The news comes after increasingly vocal opposition from investors who feared an attempt to buy Signet on the cheap.

David Herro of Harris Associates, the company's largest shareholder, dismissed the mooted £2.3bn offer from the consortium as too low. Shares in the company have soared by 16 per cent to 115.25p since the interest became public; they are expected to fall sharply on Tuesday, when the London stock market reopens.

Signet is due to announce its interim results on Wednesday. Analysts are forecasting that pre-tax profits will have risen by 13 per cent to £59m. The withdrawal of the private equity consortium could pave the way for Gerald Ratner, the former chief executive of the company, to bid. Ratner's first jewellery chain experienced a financial crisis after he described one of his products as "total crap". Signet had also been in talks over a possible merger with US rival Zale in mid-June, but Zale decided that its shareholders would be best served by it continuing as an independent company.

29 August 2006

US growth potential for Van Cleef & Arpels

Fine jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels has turned 100 this year, yet the company still has a great deal of growth potential. “In a recent study we looked at, the brand has awareness of slightly below 20 percent in the US in comparison to other fine jewellery houses,” Emmanuel Perrin, president and chief executive in North America, told WWD. “When you see that figure, you can view it as much as a liability as an asset. I myself see it as an asset, because it means there's that much more potential for growth.” Perrin, who has held various positions within Van Cleef's parent company Compagnie Financière Richemont, is focusing on product development and image to boost the brand's presence in the US . Herein lies the challenge of remaining exclusive while appealing to a broader target group of wealthy customers. According to Perrin, that balance has been struck with the introduction of three centennial celebration collections over the next couple of months. The very exclusive first collection, Trésor Révélés, consists of archive pieces which have never before been produced due to lack of technical advancement and will retail for between $185,000 and $3.5 million. The second collection, the Centennial Alhambra Collection, will retail for between $1,300 and $11,900 – the company's most accessible range to date. “The collection is young and playful and very iconic,” said Perrin. “It shows that we can have fun with the jewellery and increase the accessibility of Van Cleef while still creating the quality that we are known for. The challenge will be to remain careful in our approach to our growth because the brand is a gem of its own, and we want it to remain selective.”

Perrin also plans to expand the brand's US presence through retail and wholesale expansion, with the opening of one to two stores a year for the next three to five years. The focus will be on cities where the brand has little presence, like Las Vegas , Dallas and Atlanta . According to industry reports, the brand generates $200 million annually, although Perrin said this was a low estimate.

www.vancleef-arpels.com
28 August 2006

Signet jewelers refuses big

The largest shareholder in Signet, the jewellery retailer, has dismissed a possible 132p-a-share bid for the company as too low.

David Herro, the veteran fund manager at US-based Harris Associates, which holds almost 13 per cent of Signet, said a mooted £2.3bn offer for the company by Apax and KKR, the private equity groups, would undervalue the retailer. Herro's remarks follow similar comments from smaller institutional shareholders last week. Those shareholders also suggested that they would block attempts to take Signet private on the basis that it could achieve private equity-style returns as a public company.

The growing resistance will add to doubts that Apax and KKR will launch an offer at all. Earlier this year, Signet held tentative merger talks with Zale, its US rival. Signet's shares closed on Friday at 113.5p.

14 August 2006

Sale of Signet jewellery on hold

Hopes for a quick £2.3 billion sale of Signet, owner of High Street jewellery chains H. Samuel and Ernest Jones, faded this weekend. Insiders said a bid was far from certain. Last week, private equity firms KKR and Apax were reported to be considering a 132p-per-share offer. But it is thought no formal offer has been discussed. The news came just weeks after Finacial Mail revealed that Signet and US jewellery giant Zale Corporation, owner of Zales jewellery stores had been in talks about a merger that was later abandoned.

7 August 2006

Links of London sold to Folli Follie

Links of London has been sold to the Greek fashion jewellery company Folli Follie. The British company, which was founded by John Ayton and his wife Annoushka Ducas in 1990, became known for its cuff links, charms and gold and silver creations. Ayton said they have sold 100 percent of the company in a deal valuing it at €45 million. Nevertheless, Ayton will stay on board as chairman and Ducas will remain creative director. He said the need for expansion was the foremost reason for the sale. “We were the brand's creators, but when it came time to roll out stores we couldn't, with our resources, do it rapidly,” Ayton told WWD. “Folli Follie has been phenomenally successful building its business on a global basis. We'd like to do the same.” Links has an annual turnover of approximately £30 million. Ayton wants to take it to £100 million over the next four years and sees the US as a major growth area. It currently accounts for 18 percent of sales, but Ayton would like to increase that to 30 percent. Various stores and shop-in-shops are already in the pipeline for the second half of this year, including two shop-in-shops at Marchall Field's and freestanding stores in Las Vegas and Washington DC . The company will also open its first store in mainland China and a Tokyo flagship later this year. It currently has 119 wholesale accounts worldwide and 31 stand alone stores.

Folli Follie, meanwhile, was founded in the early eighties by husband and wife Dimitris and Ketty Koutsolioutos. The company is listed on the Athens Stock Exchange and specialises in fashion jewellery and accessories. With 280 shops worldwide, the company has annual sales of $318 million (£171 million). The two couples have been friends for six years, according to Ayton. “It was not the highest offer we received, but we're happy with the valuation, and we're very happy with the new home we've found for Links,” he said, adding that he did not regret selling 100 percent of the business. “It was a much cleaner deal, and we're really looking forward to an ongoing involvement with Folli Follie. It's a new chapter for the brand.” Links will be operated separately from its parent and will stay in London .

www.linksoflondon.com
28 July 2006

Asprey appoints new creative director

British jewellery house Asprey has appointed Hakan Rosenius to be its new creative director. Rosenius will join the firm and the fill the newly created position from Paul Smith, where he spent the past 23 years and is currently creative director.
At Asprey, the creative roles had originally been divided among a design team that included Hussein Chalayan for ready-to-wear, Alessandra Gradi for jewellery and Thierry de Baschmakoff for home accessories. As creative director, Rosenius will be put in charge of design, marketing, advertising, promotion and visual merchandising. He will report to Asprey chief executive Gianluca Brozzetti.
“We are all very excited by the arrival of Hakan Rosenius as creative director,” said Brozzetti in a statement. “His creative experience, style and passion for Britishness and luxury will make a great contribution to the development of Asprey worldwide.”
At Paul Smith, Rosenius worked alongside Sir Paul on store interiors, merchandising, packaging, look books and advertising for licensed products. Prior to this he worked as a buyer and merchandiser for London boutiques Browns and Joseph.

www.asprey.com
20 June 2006

Tiffany's Q1 sales gain

Iconic jewellery Tiffany's has posted an 8 percent profit rise on sales up 6 percent in the first quarter. Despite higher gross margins, the jeweller warned that rising precious metal prices could affect margins next fiscal year. Net income for the quarter ended 30 April rose to $43.1 million from $40.1 million on sales of $539.2 million from $509.9 million last year. Operating profits rose 12 percent to $74.2 million.

The company said international sales gained 13 percent, while Japan gained 4 percent and other countries in the Asia-Pacific region saw a rise of 19 percent. European sales were up 18 percent, while the US saw a small rise of 2 percent. Chairman and chief executive Michael J. Kowalski said in a statement that he was “very pleased with the geographically broad-based strength in our international stores and (we) are encouraged with Tiffany's results in Japan . US retail sales results were disappointing, but it should be viewed (as) relative to a strong 14 percent increase in last year's first quarter.”

The gross margin rate leapt to 55.8 percent as opposed to 53.9 percent last year. “The increased margin primarily reflected favourable product sales mix, as well as some benefit from geographical sales mix,” the company said in a statement. It warned, however, that higher precious metal and diamond costs to exert pressure on margins, “although the company periodically adjusts retail prices to mitigate such effects.”

Speaking about softer US sales, Mark L. Aaron, vice president of investor relations, said that “lower sales to European travellers accounted for the majority of the sales decline in the New York flagship store and lower sales to Japanese travellers resulted in a sales decline in Hawaii .” Sales in Japan exceeded expectations with comparable store sales up 12 percent.

Kowalski said that Tiffany's is “expanding our presence this year with five new US stores and new locations in Japan , China , Austria , Mexico and Canada . We are also maintaining an active pace of new product introductions, highlighted by the recent launch of jewellery designed by the renowned architect Frank Gehry.” Management expects sales to grow 10 percent this year. “Our forecast assumes gradually improving trends in the US and solid international sales growth so that we achieve mid-single-digit comparable store sales growth in the US and Japan for the full year.”

www.tiffany.com
2 June 2006

Theo Fennell contemplates expansion plans

British jeweller Theo Fennell is hoping to expand his business by trying to enter the US market. “We've finally decided to go for it and and not keep ourselves a secret anymore,” the designer told WWD. The brand is already a big hit with British celebrities like Liz Hurley, Elton John and the Beckhams, with its signature bejewelled crosses and key pendants adorning more than a few gorgeous necks.

Fennell, who is a silversmith by trade, owns 70 percent of the business, together with board members Viscount Cowdray, Richard Northcott and Charlie Carter. The company is currently listed on London 's AIM stock exchange, but Fennell says that it will need a financial partner to be able to expand. “What we're looking for is a financial partner with the skills to help us to be a serious international player,” he said. He is looking to expand into the US , the Middle East and the Far East . He is not adverse to selling the business while retaining creative control, or selling a minority stake.

Financial backing would also be needed to invest in top-quality gemstones in order to expand in both retail and wholesale. Last year the company realized sales of £16.3 million and has a current market capitalization of approximately £6.3 million. Retail prices for the jewellery collections range from £395 for a pair of gold earrings to £78,000 for a diamond ring with three stones. Fennell also makes jewellery for private clients. Furthermore, the company still produces silver, from classic picture frames to surprising objects like the top of Crème de la Mer jars.

The company currently has a flagship store in London 's South Kensington and in the City of London 's Royal Exchange. It also has shop-in-shops in Harvey Nichols Manchester, Harrods and Selfridges and has 17 wholesale clients in such far-flung market as Hong Kong , Dubai , Barbados and the Maldives . Furthermore, the company also has a number of private clients in the US , but Fennell is hoping to start afresh in that market.

“About 10 years ago, we were selling the jewellery at Neiman Marcus and the silver at Bergdorf Goodman, and it just didn't work at the time,” he said. “There is nothing worse than knocking on America 's door and not being able to support what you're selling with good service and the proper infrastructure.” Fennell hopes to establish a small base for distribution in the US and to initially sell via department stores. Eventually he would like to open freestanding stores.

www.theofennell.com
2 May 2006

Links of London for sale

Jeweller Links of London is for sale for up to £100 million. Founding owners – and husband and wife – John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas decided to put the company up for sale after receiving several approaches. They have released a memorandum to potential financial buyers stating the asking price. According to one private equity group, the price indication of £100 million is “optimistic”, reports the Financial Times, adding that one of the interested parties is Icelandic group Baugur. The acquisitive group recently forked out £21 million for luxury jeweller Mappin & Webb.

The couple control two-thirds of the business and are being advised on an exit by UBS Wealth Management. In the meantime, they have ceded control of day-to-day operatons to managing director Gareth Morris, whom they hired from luxury goods group Richemont.

One private equity group told the FT that, with earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortisation of £1.3 million on sales of £23 million, Links should indicate a price of less than £50 million. However, chairman John Ayton expects profits to treble this year, thanks to expansion in North America and Asia and the opening of a flagship on Sloane Square . Ayton said the company plans to increase sales “to £100 million in four years”. Therefore, Link's advisers are asking a premium based on these projections.

Ayton and Ducas opened the first Links store in Broadgate in 1990. Ducas, the company's creative director, first designed sterling silver cufflinks, which the company initially sold, but Links has diversified since then and now has 45 stores.

The jeweller recently opened stores and concessions in New York and Canada . According to the memorandum, there is potential for rapid international expansion and strong wholesale demand. There are plans in the pipeline to open more outlets in North America and Japan this year, and the company said it is in talks to expand into China and Taiwan .

www.linksoflondon.com
1 May 2006

Christie's to auction Princess Margaret's jewellery

Christie's, the renowned auction house, is to announce the June sale of royal jewellery, once belonging to Margaret Rose, the Queen's sister. Described by Suzie Menkes as “the bright-eyed, mischievous younger sister of Queen Elizabeth, a larky beauty with velvet eyes to rival Elizabeth Taylor's in her heyday.”

The auction, which will feature a stunning collection of jewellery, includes the tiara she wore to her wedding to court photographer Antony Armstrong-Jones, in 1960.

For collectors, royal or otherwise, the sale at Christie's London on June 13 and 14 will be a treasure trove of public history and private emotion. Margaret died in 2002, leaving to her two children and their families what looks like, as the Tribune describes“the contents of her dressing-table drawers: a jumble of boxes, grandly embossed or modest and broken-hinged, containing anything from a pair of synthetic ruby earrings to a Scottish terrier pin that might have come from a Christmas stocking, if it were not labeled Tiffany.”

The collection of 650 covetable pieces, include a Fabergé clock and cigarette case and a modern diamond necklace gifted from the emir of Kuwait. Not all jewellery is precious or valuable, but nonetheless gives an intriguing insight into a woman who turned away the red plush and old-fashioned world of pomp and pageantry.

It is not known why the jewellery is being auctioned, a decision made by Margaret's children, designer David Linley and artist Sarah Chatto. The children have made no formal statement as to the sale, but rumour has it that money is needed to pay inheritance tax on the £7 million estate.

18 April 2006

New owner for Fred Leighton

Jeweller to the stars Fred Leighton has been acquired by Ralph Esmerian. A fourth-generation jewellery dealer, Esmerian bought the 35 year old company with the assistance of his lending partner Global Asset Based Finance Group, a division of Merrill Lynch. The value of the transaction has not been disclosed.

Fred Leighton, née Murray Monschein, transformed vintage jewellery into a fashion statement. He featured jewellery from the Victorian period to the Art Deco period in his Madison Avenue landmark store. Later, in 1998, he also opened a store in The Bellagion in Las Vegas.

Leighton pieces have been worn by the most famous actresses and musicians, including Elizabeth Taylor and Nicole Kidman and Madonna. Miuccia Prada, a great admirer, famously displayed and sold Leighton estate pieces in her Prada store in Soho in New York in 2003.

“(Leighton) of all the retailers in terms of vintage jewellery, reached the world; he caught everyone's attention,” Esmerian told WWD. “He brought it to everyone's attention. It used to be that you got a piece of jewellery from your grandmother and you brought it directly to the auction house – you never wore it. Now people have a feel for the old stuff.”

Esmerian is planning to open a second store in Las Vegas and will also open a store in Beverly Hills next year. Plans are also in the pipeline to expand Leighton's small watch collection and his signature jewellery line. The latter includes a broad selection of diamond engagement rings.

Leighton himself will continue as a consultant and will be involved in the sale of jewellery and new product development. Director of publicity, Rebecca Selva – who has been with the company for 12 years and is the celebrity liaison – will continue in her current capacity.

“(Leighton's) success has a great deal to do with the fact that he has an individual personal taste that gets transmitted through his store,” Esmerian said. “There's such a personal element involved.” Esmerian added that he hopes the “luxury market will keep up and prove to be fruitful for us.”

www.fredleighton.com
3 April 2006

Tiffany's continues expansion plans

Leading US jeweller Tiffany & Co reported a 6 percent sales rise to $858.5 million for the fourth quarter, exceeding analysts' expectations. However, net earnings plummeted 35.3 percent to $140.3 million (£80.8 million) from $217 million in the same period last year; in 2004 the company profited from a one-time $194 million gain from the sale of its stake in Aber Diamond Corp.

The jewellery retailer is continuing to expand with new stores openings, squashing rumours of a takeover. Last week, it said it would open two more stores in China, one in Beijing and one in Shanghai, where it already has one store each. There will also be two more stores openings in Japan, although five stores were closed in that country. Further stores openings are planned for Vancouver, Vienna, Macau, Monterey in Mexico, Tucson, Nashville, Indianapolis and Atlantic City.

Also in the pipeline are the expansion of Iridesse to 14 stores and the launch of six jewellery collections designed by Frank Gehry in select US and Japanese stores.

Chairman and chief executive Michael Kowalski said that in this year's first quarter the company has realized “stronger-than-expected comparable-store sales growth in most international market, including double-digit growth in Japan.” Same-store sales in the US were “modestly below the prior year, reflecting a difficult year-over-year comparison.”

Global same-store sales rose 6 percent, with retail sales in the US increasing 8 percent to $449.3 million and same-store sales up 5 percent, thanks to higher spending per transaction. Meanwhile, full-year earnings dropped 16.3 percent from $304.3 million to $254.7 million. Annual revenues rose 8.6 percent to $2.4 billion.

Commenting on sales during a conference call with WWD, Tiffany's vice president of investor relations, Mark Aaron, said, “There continued to be greater strength in higher price point jewellery. There was solid demand for diamond jewellery all year, ranging from rings to studs, pendants, bracelets and necklaces. Tiffany's expanded colour diamond assortment is also attracting customers.”

However, same-store sales at the brand's flagship store slipped two percent in the quarter. “The flagship's performance was affected by lower foreign tourist spending in the fourth quarter, which more than offset higher sales to local resident customers,” said Aaron. Meanwhile, international sales rose 1 percent to $304 million, with same-store sales up 7 percent. Japan helped boost foreign sales with an 8 percent increase.

www.tiffany.com
29 March 2006

Profits sparkle at Bulgari

Exclusive Italian jeweller Bulgari, should unveil sparkling profits tomorrow. Sales last year are expected to show an 11 per cent increase to £635 million. Bulgari has made a strong comeback since crashing in 2001. The company has slashed costs and upgraded its flagship stores. It has also expanded its range, with watches, perfumes and leather and silk accessories to entice the new rich of China and Russia. But chief executive Francesco Trapani denied that the company was for sale.

Garrard and Asprey split up

British Crown jeweller Garrard has been acquired by California billionaire Ron Burkle's Yucaipa Companies. With the sale of Garrard, its eight-year link with luxury retailer Asprey ends. The deal is thought to have cost Yucaipa between $20 million and $30 million (£20.8 million). Robert Procop will act as managing partner of the firm. He was briefly chief executive of Asprey & Garrard when it was owned by the Sultan of Brunei's brother. The joint entity became technically insolvent in February, losing almost $500 million of investment.

Asprey chief executive Gianluca Brozzetti said that the two companies were better off as separate enterprises. “They merged in a marriage that was not ideal,” he told the FT. “In our refinancing we wanted to give the best chance for each brand to grow and develop.”

Jade Jagger will stay on as creative director for the jeweller and Yucaipa will make “a substantial investment” in the loss-making company to support it international expansion. Procop said the jeweller was expected to make $7.5 million in sales in the year ending this month. Underlying sales would be up about 50 percent to $6.8 million. Garrard was established by Queen Victoria in 1843 and was merged with Asprey in 1998, when it was in hands of Prince Jefri Bolkiah of Brunei.

www.a-ggroup.com
21 March 2006

Bulgari opens biggest store in Tokyo

Luxury jeweller Bulgari will open its biggest store ever in Tokyo. The new flagship boasts ten stories and is located in the exclusive Ginza shopping district. The building will house the company's Japan headquarters and the opening of the store is scheduled for December 2007.

“Bulgari, in fact, can boast a strong relationship with Japan since the opening of the first store here more than 20 years ago,” said chief executive Francesco Trapani in a statement. “Since then, the brand has registered a great success in this country, and in 2005 Japan represented 26 percent of the Group's total revenues.” The retailer is renting the space, which will house a rooftop garden, VIP rooms, a restaurant and bar and a bridal lounge, from pharmaceuticals group Sankyo.

“Japan has always been for Bulgari the key market to launch new products because of the well-known passion and attention of Japanese clientele to design, quality and image, and this is the reason why we decided to open here our largest store in the world,” said Trapani.

www.bulgari.com
20 March 2006

Theo Fennell considers new bids

British celebrity jeweller Theo Fennell announced that it is currently talking to various interested parties in order to obtain new investment, reports Reuters. In November, the company said that it had received a tentative offer from an unnamed bidder. “Since that time, it has been approached by a number of other interested parties with whom it is now in discussion and is therefore no longer in exclusive talks with any single party,” Theo Fennell said in a statement. “The current discussions are to secure new investment for the company to enable it to accelerate its business plan of expanding overseas through concessions and franchises.”

The company reported a like-for-like sales growth of 32.7 percent for the December month to Christmas Eve and said that it would meet its profit forecast for the year. Shares rose 5 percent, bringing market capitalisation to around £6.6 million.

www.theofennell.com
16 January 2006

Reiss to work with Anna Lou

Anna Lou, the London-based designer jeweller is to do a range for Reiss. The partnership will see the fashion retailer launch a range of jewellery and accessories called Anna Lou for Reiss. The range will include earrings, ecklaces and bracelets that retail from £40 to £70.

The collection will be available in 31 Reiss stores in the UK and Irish republic and a flagship store in New York

Bulgari continues accessories expansion

The Italian Bulgari Group is expanding its presence as a purveryor of luxury accessories with a number of acquisitions. It has recently purchased a 51 percent stake in the Swiss firm Prestige d'Or S.A., a leader in the production of steel and precious metal watch straps, and also acquired the Italian firm Pacini, which is now called Bulgari Accessori S.rL, and produces leather, reptile and custom-made fabric handbags.

These acquisitions will enable the Group to continue developing its accessories business, which, with a 35 percent increase in sales, performed outstandingly in the first half of 2005.

Next in line in the expansion strategy is the opening of the first Bulgari store fully dedicated to accessories. The store will open in the Japanese department store Shinsaibashi Sogo in Osaka at the end of November and will be next to the jewellery and watches store which Bulgari opened there last month.

The Group is partly privately held, with the Bulgari family holding approximately 52 percent of the share capital. The remaining 48 percent was floated on the Milan Stock Exchange.

www.bulgari.com
19 October 2005

H.Samuel launches online retail site

British jewellery retailer H.Samuel has announced the launch of its online shop. Thereby it has created the leading integrated, multi-channel shopping capability within the British jewellery sector. With a next-day delivery service within the UK and approximately 2,200 product lines – ranging from diamond and gem-set jewellery, gold and silver jewellery, watches and gifts – customers have no reason not to use the service, which also includes postal returns and immediate refunds.

“We are delighted to offer H.Samuel's customers an additional way to purchase jewellery and gifts that is both convenient and secure, through the launch of an online shopping capability,” said Rob Anderson, chief executive of UK Jewellery, Signet Group plc, H.Samuel's parent company. “This method of shopping has become a way of life for many British consumers, and now they have access to a large range of jewellery, watches and gifts via the H.Samuel website.”

www.hsamuel.co.uk
14 September 2005

Golden girls

Thinking back to the high-glam era of Hollywood 's heyday, gold has replaced silver as celebrities' metallic shade of choice. From burnished to yellowy tones, via sequins and sparkly beads, a golden touch just oozes A-list glamour. But take a tip from the stars and keep accessories minimal and hair and make-up neutral to ensure that you shine.

2 September 2005

The Monopoly on pretty

Everyone's favourite boardgam, Monopoly, is celebrating its 70 th birthday. To celebrate, it has designed a sterling silver charm bracelet featuring all of the playing pieces. For £150 you can be the owner of this bracelet, which can also be ordered in gold. Since its conception by Charles Darrow, Monopoly has sold over 200 million games throughout 80 countries, and has been translated into 32 languages. It currently sells two million boards a year.

“We kept receiving orders for bespoke Monopoly pieces so we approached Hasbro International to see if we were allowed to make them,” Stephen Riordan, of Riordan Goldsmiths & Silversmiths in Hampshire, told vogue.co.uk. “They liked the idea – and a charm bracelet seemed like the most fitting project for the birthday. It brings the story to a full circle.” The bracelets have been made in a limited edition of 1,500 and each is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity.

www.riordanjewellers.co.uk
24 August 2005

Ladies & gentlemen prefer pearls

British Crown Jeweller Garrard is launching its pearl collection “High Days and Holidays.” Rolling Stone offspring Jade Jagger, the house's creative director, designed the pears with the skulls from the Yorick collection.

The rosary-style necklaces and bracelets add a modern edge to classic jewellery. The black Yorick/pearl necklaces are a unisex piece and accessory-inclined men will be able to buy the pearls for wives and girlfriends, as well as wearing them themselves. Garrard has also recreated its signature 9ft strand of pearls from the 1970s. Prices from £1,200. See www.garrard.com for more details.

13 August 2005

It's a bling thing

Damon Dash has brought a new watch to the market...and this isn't just your run of the mill timepiece. The Tiret watch, worn by heavy hitters like Kevin Bacon, Usher, Rod Stewart, Pharrell Williams and David Beckham, features hand-picked diamonds and retails for between £17,000 and £450,000. Although Usher's version, which features yellow diamonds on a background of white diamonds counting 1106 stones in total, costs an extraordinary £1 million.

The Tiret was created by Dash and jeweler Daniel Lazar and is available in Harrods' Luxury Hall from this week. So if you have some spare cash, or you simply want to gawk, you'll know where to go.

19 July 2005

Superdrug launches jewellery line

The British health and beauty chain Superdrug is launching an exclusive line of accessories under the True Spirit brand. The new brand will launch this week and expects to have the line in 635 of its 700 stores in the UK by mid-summer.

Superdrug - which is owned by AS Watson, part of Hong Kong entrepreneur Li Ka-Shing's Hutchinson Whampoa group - announced two months ago that it was expanding the business. The £75 million expansion strategy includes the opening of 40 new stores this year, and a target of 1000 total stores in 2009.

Although the company has always sold jewellery, it believes that True Spirit will help the chain's position at the fashion end of the beauty and health spectrum. It has not revealed the investment costs of the venture. It did say that further accessories lines like hats, bags and scarves will be available from September.

The newly promoted managing director of Superdrug, Euan Sutherland, said that True Spirit has already bad a very successful trial run in about half its stores and has surpassed its target. According to the Financial Times health and beauty companies like the ailing Boots and fashion retailers like Monsoon, which owns Accessorize, Claires, River Island and Top Shop, could be negatively affected by Superdrug's expansion.

Analysts were divided on the launch of the line. Tony Shiret of CSFB saw the sense in it: "People tend not to be so price conscious on accessories so you can still make a bit of margin on them. I suppose this will also free it a bit from the pricing pressure in toiletries." Meanwhile, Richard Ratner of Seymour Pierce, expressed his doubts: "It will take some market share from around the edges, but I think people like buying accessories in a special environment rather than in a toiletries shop." Jewellery prices will range from as little as £1 to £7. Bags, belts, hats and scarves will retail for between £4 and £15.

www.superdrug.com
14 July 2005

Dazzling Denise

Fabulous, innovative jewellery by US designer Denise Azira is now available at Perpetuity in the UK. The Covent Garden shop is introducing the label to British shoppers with the summer collection. Azira is well loved by celebrities ranging from Lil Kim to Katie Holmes. She started off as a wardrobe stylist for the likes of Yoko Ono and Courtney Love and grew to become their favoured jeweller.

Her pieces are diverse, varying between classical gold and topaz drop necklaces and centipede-moulded neckpieces laced with black diamonds.
Information is available through perpetuityuk@aol.com

29 June 2005

Signet confirms Q1 rise

Specialty jewlry retailer Signet Group plc announces its first quarter results for the period from 30 January to 30 April 2005. Group profit before tax was £27.9 million (Q1 2004/05: £26.1 million), up by 9.4 percent at constant exchange rates. Total sales were £369.2 million (Q1 2004/05: £351.9 million), up by 7.0 percent at constant exchange rates and by 4.9 percent on a reported basis.

In the United Kingdom (circa 30% of Group annual sales) the period saw a marked deterioration in the general retail environment. Consequently like for like sales fell by 6.2 percent resulting in an operating loss of £0.4 million (Q1 2004/05: profit £2.6 million). Total sales were £91.3 million (Q1 2004/05: £96.1 million) and gross margin showed an increase. H.Samuel's like for like sales were down 6.4 percent and those of Ernest Jones down 6.0 percent. Both chains saw a further increase of diamonds in the sales mix.

10 June 2005

Matthew Williamson launches jewellery

Matthew Williamson is launching his first ever jewellery collection. Available at Goldsmith stores nationwide, there are five pieces in the collection - earrings, a charm bracelet, a pendant, a ring and a medallion. With matthew's fans including Sienna miller, Kelis and Kate Moss, it's only a matter of time before the A-list are adorned with his new trinkets.

Prices from £350.
9 March 2005

Men love their brooches

Men wearing brooches is very next season. At the spring/summer 2005 men's shows, a trend for wearing natty little pins emerged at Louis Vuitton (monogrammed teddies and dinky turtles) while Prada pinned colourful planes, boats and seahorses on her men.

Designer trinkets don't go on sale until the new year, but you could snap up a vintage version at a market near you.

3 December 2004

Going for Gold

Last week the price of gold climbed to a 16-year high. The price for gold shot to $452 (GBP251) an ounce in London trading.

The new data was published by the World Gold Council. The news was followed by Japanese investors storming the gold market. Senryobako, the wooden treasure boxes filled with gold bars or coins, are much in demand in Japan and, according to the Council, fuelled the Japanese buying spree by 71% to almost 52 tons tonnes in the first nine months of 2004.

Hedge funds are betting that the price of gold will rise to GBP265 an ounce by the middle of next year. Partly because of the positions the funds are assuming, the price of gold has already risen by over 13% since September. The price surge is also due to the fact that investors take refuge in gold when the dollar is weak.

According to the World Gold Council, the production of gold fell by 22% to 828 tonnes in the third quarter. Sales from central banks fell by 42%. The demand during the third quarter meanwhile soared by 8%.

British jewellers have promised to maintain previous gold prices to encourage holiday season shoppers this year. Manager of Asprey, Christopher MacDonald, said that prices might rise next year if gold was to remain at GBP265 for an extended period. However, prices would not be affected this year.

Most jewellers like Asprey, Mappin & Webb, the Signet Group and Asprey & Garrard bought their Christmas stock in advance. The Chief Executive of the National Association of Goldsmiths said that retailers are likely to absorb small price fluctuations. He said that any price adjustments would be made in the spring.

29 November 2004

Tiffany reports Third Quarter results

The famous jeweller Tiffany, immortalized by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, announced its results for the third quarter ending 31 October 2004 last week. Net earnings were down by 26%, lower than management had expected. Higher precious metal and diamond costs contributed greatly to the drop in the consolidated gross margin.

In the nine month period ending 31 October 2004, net sales increased by 7% to $ 1.4 billion ( GBP 800 million), as opposed to $1.3 billion in the same period last year. Chairman and Chief Executive Michael J. Kowalski told reporters that he had received encouraging responses from customers to the new range of products and equally encouraging results from their new shops. He expects an increase in sales during the holiday sales, and further favourable results in international markets and improvement in directing marketing sales.

www.tiffany.com
15 November 2004

Heart Of Stone

If you need something to brighten up your little black dress this season, look no further than the exquisite jewellery from Dinny Hall.

Known as one of Britain's foremost jewellery designers, her creations are loved by Madonna, Kristin Scott-Thomas and Edie Izzard et al. Opt for the silver pave bolero necklaces in aqua, lemon and lavender cubic zirconia. Alternatively chose your own gemstone and have your own ring of pendant custom made.

For more information or to order online visit www.dinnyhall.com

8 November 2004

The real bling

Kimora Lee and Russell Simmons are hip-hop's reigning king and queen and are crowning the fact with a new line of jewellery. Baby Phat and Phat Farm jewellery, named after the couple's respective women's and men's clothing lines, were launched at Bloomingdale's yesterday. Just in time for the holiday season.

Kimora Lee and Russell joined forces with M.Fabrikant & Sons, a top-tier wholesaler of diamonds and fine jewellery to create their own line of diamond-encrusted jewellery and watches. The Phat pieces range from $400 to $2500.

Kimora Lee is creative director of the new line, but the couple will be designing the various pieces together. Kimora Lee's influence is certainly palpable in the designs, which include a pair of diamond pendant earrings featuring the signature logo, and a necklace pendant in the shape of a high-heeled sandal. The latter is reminiscent of the shoes that Kimora Lee favours and keeps in the hundreds in the couple's palatial home. She will also be designing a signature cut diamond for the "red carpet" couture line, which will be launched in 2005.

Although visitors at New York Fashion Week were able to enjoy a sneak preview of a few selected pieces, the majority of the pieces were revealed yesterday. At the launch Russell Simmons took the opportunity to express his hopes that this partnership with a reputable business such as Fabrikant will encourage more African Americans to take an active roll in the businesses that they influence across the world.

This is not just bling. This is bling with a message.

2 November 2004

Celebrity endorsement for Holland

Jewellery designer Philippa Holland has got off to quite an auspicious start in her career. London-based Holland sold a pair of wishbone hoop earrings to the It-girl du jour and gorgeous girlfriend of Jude Law, Sienna Miller. She subsequently wore the earrings to the London premiere of her new movie with Law, Alfie. Miller is known for her great eye and a keen sense of what works and what doesn't. Therefore, an endorsement from her is as good as a signed guarantee of success.

Holland uses gems in her designs and shows an interest for their magical and healing powers. To this end, she asked her Buddhist meditation teacher to rid each stone of any negative energy. So not only can we look good wearing her designs, but we can feel good too.

www.philippaholland.co.uk
1 November 2004

Men Ok To Bling

There has always been a fine line for wearing fashionable jewelry between successfully accessorising and out-blinging the chandeliers. This rings true especially for men. While David Beckham may be a catalyst for diamonds sales, his love for men's jewelry hasn't before inspired the average man to have his ears pierced and adorned with de Beers diamonds.

But jewelry for men is back on the fashion menu and this month's menswear season produced brooches, necklaces and bracelets as embellishment for suits and sportswear, suggesting that jewelry is creeping back into the average male's wardrobe.

For most guys, diamonds (except maybe on watches or as evening studs) are not fashionable, nor masculine. But, as Susie Menkes told The International Herald Tribune, when Giorgio Armani puts a bold flower pin on the lapel of a suit or Miuccia Prada teams a bead necklace with a collar and tie, you have to accept that male jewels are taking off. Prada also pinned a sailing boat brooch on a jacket and added more of the "tricks" or decorative gadgets that she launched last season. They have become a big hit dangling from belts and bags.
The general tendency is for a tribal vibe, suggesting all the ethnic, male nobility that goes with sharks' teeth, carved horn, shells and beadwork. But there is nothing ethnic about the clothes they partner, for those chunky necklaces tend to be worn with a leather jacket, polo shirt and jeans, rather than with Beckham's signature metrosexual sarong.

Fine jewelry is a more delicate choice. Gucci more or less invented the image of "medallion man" in the 1970s - Gucci brogues, slacks, open shirt and gold glittering in the chest hair. The snazzy house is now a jewelry purveyor, and in the Milan show (and in an Italian Bella Figura tradition) gilded necklaces hit the cleavage or bumped against a bared torso, while wrists clunked with gold bracelets. Dior Homme's style is subtle, mostly in silver and finely sculpted to create a sophisticated statement.

19 July 2004

Diamonds Forever

Golf may not be the hippest sport but the clothes certainly are good. With the opening of the new Pringle of Scotland shop on Sloane Street, Fair Isle Diamonds are now as sure a success as Tiger Woods.

Complementing their traditional collection is the funky new Grey Label range for boys and girls, as worn by Sophie Dahl in the new ad campaign. The pink and black diamond cashmere cardigan costs GBP 280.

Pringle of Scotland, 141 Sloane Street, London SW3, tel: 00 7881 3060

19 May 2003

Diamonds are Heidi's new friends

Heidi Klum has turned her hand to jewellery design. The German supermodel, who already designs her own line of limited-edition sandals for German footwear giant Birkenstok, has hooked up with Mouawad to co-design a range which is described as a "sumptuous blend of 18-carat white gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones", according to reports. Heidi Klum has often been seen wearing Mouawad jewellery. The Heidi Klum Collection will be available in stores from August.

February 6, 2003

Jewellery line Raquel Welch

Legendary motion picture and television icon Raquel Welch will show her new line of fine jewellery on the American TV-shopping network HSN. According to insiders, the collection reflects the elegance and sophistication of the woman who inspired it. Pieces in the line will range in price from 99 USD to 699 USD.

Raquel's collection combines 18-karat gold, sterling silver and precious & semi-precious gemstones to create jewellery that has a classic look with contemporary overtones. Key pieces will include a signature "R" inlaid in 18-karat gold on the back. "I believe jewellery should follow trends but never go out of style," said Ms. Welch. "This collection reflects my love for elegant designs that women will cherish for a lifetime."

In addition to presenting her jewellery, Ms. Welch will give viewers tips on how to look savvy and develop their own sense of style by sharing the stories behind the inspiration of each piece.

www.hsn.com

January 25, 2003