Lyon fights to remain lingerie hub

Last weekend Lyon once again welcomed an onslaught of both French and foreign buyers and press as the Lyon Mode City and Interfilière lingerie and fabric trade fairs opened their doors. The halls of the Eurexpo centre were buzzing with deals being done and contacts being made, but also with some concern for the marked absence of a few very big names in the lingerie industry, including Aubade and Chantelle. Cécile Jubin, Product Manager for organizer Eurovet's International division, put any worry to rest. “The industry is consolidating, which is resulting in a diminished number of independent retailers. For this reason, Aubade are opening their own shops and are dedicating their budget to this endeavour. Participating in a trade fair is expensive and companies are having to make conscious decisions about where and when to join in,” she explained. “Meanwhile, Chantelle have indicated that, as a lingerie specialist, the large beachwear concentration at Lyon Mode City does not fit their profile as much as the Paris edition in February does. Furthermore, they are tightening their budget and are choosing to market increasingly to consumers and less to trade. This is not to say that both brands won't be participating in the Paris edition.” Another concern that Eurovet is addressing is the question of dates. For large retailers like the department stores, the date is on the late side, but for the smaller retailers, having the fairs take place in July would interfere with their sales. “It is impossible to keep everyone happy but we are trying to come up with a solution,” said Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps, Eurovet's Director General. According to Jubin, the organisation has been struggling with the issue for the past two years.

The major “threat” looming over both the fairs and the French lingerie manufacturing industry centred around Lyon , is China . During a press conference which was presided over by several luminaries from Eurovet, the city of Lyon, the Rhone-Alpes region and the industry, discussion quickly led to maintenance of the fair's number one global position and of local production at large. Bellon-Homps explained that Eurovet invested in creating a dynamic atmosphere at the fair for its participants and visitors. “We have organized training programmes and trend forums and, for the first time ever, a summer party that will be excellent for networking.” The summer party was indeed a great success. “We must not forget that we are close to the source here in Lyon , so trends can be translated seamlessly. This gives us a lead start.” The Mayor of Lyon, Gerard Collomb, added that a tram line would be established to connect the fairs to the city. Lucien Deveaux, president of l'UIT (l'Union des industries textiles), also mentioned Eurovet's lingerie fair in Shanghai . “It gives us an opportunity to get to know the area and the market better,” he said. “To remain a leader we must be where the action is.”

www.lyonmodecity.com
www.interfiliere.com
5 September 2006

Interfilière on the way

The international body fashion fair Interfilière will once again take place during the first weekend of September in Lyon, France. With 480 participating lingerie brands and 450 bathing suit brands from 38 countries and visitors from 95 countries, this event is justified in calling itself one of the most important body fashion fairs in the world. The majority of participants is Italian (30 percent), followed by France (28 percent), Spain, Austria, Taiwan, China and Hong Kong. This season the offer will be expanded with 150 new brands from 23 countries, including Swarovski, Marlies Dekkers from The Netherlands and Brazilian bikini brand Poko Pano. Last year the fair admitted 19,373 visitors, 11,120 of whom were not French. The five countries with the most visitors were Italy, Spain, Germany, the UK and the US. The event will take place at the Eurexpo Lyon on 2, 3 and 4 September.

www.interfiliere.com
4 August 2006

Mix and match for fall

It's mid-summer and the temperatures keep rising and falling. One minute you're thinking of beaches, the next of autumn walks in the country. It's all a bit mind-boggling, but net-a-porter.com has come up with a series of solutions that will carry you from the cool days of summer to the even cooler days of fall.

The trick is to mix up your summer brights with a few fall staples for that transition period. Your favourite summer dress can long outlive the heatwave if paired with a cardigan or jacket and a pair of knee-high boots. But do not make the mistake of thinking it's still all about prairie skirts and gypsy tops. Think Bohemia! Think opulence, luxurious fabrics and great layering. Be an artist's muse or a high fashion model on the runway and don't be afraid to really mix up those fabrics and prints.

The catwalks featured models wearing chiffon or light cotton summer dresses worn under heavy cashmere cardigans, or sheepskin or tweed jackets. The look was paired with a luxurious scarf in a metallic or velvet, a chunky bracelet, thick tights and stacked-heel boots. For more options, net-a-porter.com proposes wearing a turtleneck by Narciso Rodriguez under an Antik Batik dress and a Sharon Wauchob scarf wrapped casually around the neck. It goes without saying that you don't have to break the bank to do this succesfully. Your warehouse dress combined with a Marks & Sparks turtleneck will do just as nicely.

A personal favourite is the chiffon number by Anna Sui worn under a gorgeous Burberry Prorsum leather and shearling jacket. Worn with a pair of flat-heeled Bottega Veneta boots and a Chloé necklace, you can do no wrong in my book. Also high on my wishlist is a fabulous See by Chloé chunky cardigan with short sleeves. Worn over a slip of a dress and jeans, it looks hip and will keep you warm enough at the office or at a restaurant on those iffy days when the weather appears to turn.

I rejoice at the recycling of the summer dress. Not only is it economically very sound, it makes for easy yet elegant living. For once, I am looking forward to fall.

www.net-a-porter.com
11 July 2005

press release
District for New Luxury brands

DISTRICT is the worlds first 5 star international trade event for New Luxury brands. Dedicated to promoting the finest and most directional brands, DISTRICT further establishes itself as one of the best undercover links between both worlds of high fashion and up street wear. DISTRICT prides itself on a sheer drive for newness and a genuine passion for creativity and is staged in a magnificent environment comprising services that one would expect more from a 5 star hotel than from a trade show.

A choice of 150 exhibiting labels forecast the best future trends, appealing to the smartest Fashionista. Top Benelux retailers and international buyers are invited to step into the DISTRICT Business Fashion Hub and have access to a selection of the best prized New Luxury labels from countries like Sweden, Australia, Japan, Italy, England, France, Germany, the US, Turkey, China, and of course The Netherlands. Along side brands such as Acne Jeans, Blue Blood, Etro, Filippa K, Gaspard Yurkievich, Giorgio Brato, Humanoid, Mansharey, Puma Black Station, See by Chloe, The Duffer of St. George and Tokyo Sashimi Brands that not only share a modern vision and progressive design aesthetic but further underscore a
more Global Business Strategy.

DISTRICT 3rd Edition is taking place on 29th, 30th and 31st July 2005 and is even more dedicated to further induce an ideal Business Environment between Exhibitors and Buyers. Its productive network will connect Professionals with their most suitable Business Partners, in order to establish optimum brand visibility and ultimately, generate additional sales.

As the Central Event for the official Amsterdam International Fashion Week, DISTRICT contributes to further establish Amsterdam as an ever dynamic, ultra reactive and forward thinking market area. Which it clearly proves to be.

www.amsterdamdistrict.com
29 June 2005

Net-A-Porter sees profit

The luxury etailer Net-A-Porter.com has booked a profit for the first time since launching in 2000. Sales almost doubled in 2004 from GBP 6.1 million to GBP 11.8 million. The company announced last week that net profits amounted to GBP227,000 for the year ended January 2005.

Net-A-Porter has been awarded various accolades, including last year's Best Shop by the British Fashion Awards. The company offers numerous luxury brands including Chloe, Jimmy Choo,Miu Miu, Burberry Prorsum and Mulberry.

It managed to raise a further GBP 4.5 million equity in the past year to improve and expand its service and has great hopes for the future. "We already proved that it was possible to sell high fashion online," the company's founder Natalie Massenet told vogue.co.uk. "Now we've shown that it's possible to do it profitably."

www.net-a-porter.com
17 May 2005

Intimates London July tradeshow

Intimate London Body & Beach, the tradeshow for intimate and resort apparel, has moved to a new, larger venue at Earls Court, and will be showcasing the best from designers such as Chloe, Hilfiger, DKNY as well as Pink Piranha. With a host of catwalk shows featuring the season's must-have designs you'll be the first to see what's new for next season.

Intimate London Body & Beach runs from 31st July to August 2nd. For further details please contact Hayley Demetriou at hayleyintimate@aol.com or on 020 613 5191

16 May 2005

Fairtrade Increases By 50 Per Cent

Perhaps the celebrity endorsement of fair trade has finally struck a cord, as UK sales of Fairtrade products increased by 50 per cent to £140m last year, according to new figures from the Fairtrade Foundation.

The figures were released by the foundation, which awards the Fairtrade mark, to coincide with the launch of Fairtrade Fortnight 2005, running from March 1 to March 13. More than 800 Fairtrade retail and catering products carrying the mark are available in the UK, supporting farmers across 49 developing countries.

Coffee remains the best seller, while clothing is starting to get more recognition with designers such as Katharine Hamnett speaking on behalf of farmers and manufacturers to stop using pesticides in cotton and opposing unethical Chinese production as a human rights issue.

Australian 'organic' wool and leather without harsh dyes are also making their way to designers' studio's, as awareness grows amongst a younger consumer who looks beyond the aesthetic of a garment.

Harriet Lamb, executive director of the Fairtrade Foundation, said: "The British public showed overwhelming generosity towards the people affected by the tsunami. In the same way, when they learn about Fairtrade and the positive benefits for farmers in the developing world, the response is equally dramatic.

28 February 2005

Vintage Fashion Fair

This Sunday head to Grays Antique Market, London, to broaden your fashion research. Everyone from designers to general managers of the biggest fashion houses head to Mayfair, to see the country's leading vintage fashion dealers come together.

From 30s embroidered satin dresses to 60s Ossie Clarke and Pucci, these one-offs are coveted by industry specialists and fashion lovers alike. Sunday May 16, 12-6pm, 26 south Molton Lane. Entry GBP5

14 May 2004

London Streetwear Shows To Merge Events

Streetwear shows London Centre, London Front Cover and London Edge will merge to all take place at Kensington Olympia next season.

Show director Carole Hunter said the three shows will occupy the ground floor and level one of Olympia, creating 25 per cent extra floor space for new exhibitors. The decision to merge the shows came after a mixed response from exhibitors and buyers this season.

Although many exhibitors at London Central and Front Cover, held at Olympia last weekend, were pleased with the high international turnout, which accounted for 40 per cent of visitors, they were disappointed by the size of the show and lack of buyers from the UK.

Attendance at sister show London Edge, which took place 10 minutes away at the Commonwealth Institute, was better, although no figures were available.

The show will run next season from September 5-7.

17 February 2004

Busy Times for Fashion in Berlin

Berlin and fashion - probably a perfect match. For the third time, two fashion fairs - the Bread & Butter and the Premium - took place in the German capital last weekend. Even though the city does not have a high design fashion tradition to speak of, there definitely is a blooming street scene. Therefore, both fairs initially concentrated on the sports- and streetwear market. But this year, they started expanding their range to the new men's and women's wear, featuring a lot of young designers and brands. Thus the two fairs also gave an insight into the latest developments of fashion design in Berlin. Established young labels such as Soto Stich or Firma were present as well as newcomers like Choucroute or Smeiliner.

The Bread & Butter, located in an old industrial building complex in Berlin Spandau with a space of 45.000sqm, is by far the larger of the two fairs. This year, it was divided into five segments: jeanswear, sportswear, independent, casual/outdoor and superior, which was specially added to feature high quality labels. Among the 380 exhibitors commercial giants such as Adidas, Levi's and Nike as well as independent brands like Etienne Ozeki, Paul Frank and Punk Royal presented their new collections.

Over all three days, the event was crowded with international visitors which mostly came from Italy, Scandinavia and the Netherlands. The atmosphere which used to remind of a fairground last summer when merry-go-rounds and dodgems provided entertainment now turned out to be much more professional. This may reflect the positive development of the German fashion market over the last months: Obviously, it is time to do business again. Another innovation of this year's Bread & Butter was the introduction of fashion shows into the fair. For the next event in summer, B&B's manager Karl-Heinz Müller even envisages organising shows by Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, which shall take place in historical buildings all over Berlin "to catch up with traditional fashion capitals such as Milan, Paris or London".

The aims of the Premium, which housed about 290 exhibitors this year, are quite similar. Anita Anic, who is part of the management, says: "At the moment, there is still a hype about Berlin. We need to get to the next level and become more professional." Their high ambitions were reflected by the fact that the Premium had managed to invite stars like Hussein Chalayan and Marc Jacobs who presented their menswear collections. The growing international importance of the fair is reflected by the fact that even British buyers ordered pieces from Duffer of St. George there - something you would not normally expect to happen in Berlin.

The question remains why fashion people are generally more and more attracted by the city. Dave de Boer, Dutch manager of the agency Fashion Soutions, puts it this way: "The people come for inspiration. The multicultural atmosphere typical of Berlin is similar only to Amsterdam, London and New York. There are lots of people who are really creative with limited resources." And there is another advantage: Compared to London or Paris living in Berlin is much less expensive which makes it easier for people to develop their creativity and concentrate on designing.

20 January 2004

Vintage Fashion Show

If you prefer vintage over old-school, don't miss the London Textiles, Vintage Fashion & Accessories Fair to be held this Sunday, December 7 and Sunday January 11, 2004.

The shows take place at Hammersmith Town Hall, King Street, with early entry at GBP10 from 8am. The event offers a wide range of vintage dresses from around 1800 to 1970 and designer labels up to 1970. It also includes gloves, hats, jewellery and accessories.

3 December 2003

Showguide

It's the season for shows. Started this weekend and running through until October, the most important exhibitions for womenswear, menswear and kidswear buyers are just around the corner. With so many collections showing across Europe, planning your seasonal buying has become an art of its own.

From contemporary womenswear labels at the Coterie in Paris, to the GDS footwear shoe fair at GDS in Dusseldorf, to textile scouting at Interstoff in Hong Kong, buyers have their work cut out for them to see the best in ready-to-wear for Spring/Summer 2004.

London Fashion Week continues to attract top buyers from the UK and Japan for its showcasing for creative design. The off-schedule shows from the lesser-known designers are the ones to watch out for, as are the established houses of Burberry, Katharine Hamnett and Roland Mouret.

In a versatile economic climate, buyers are looking for edgy, affordable and commercial craftsmanship, while the press hunts for headline-grabbing glamour and the next big thing.
(Don-Alvin Adegeest)

28 July 2003

Relaunch Interseason

British fashion fair 'Interseason', a fair for club and streetwear, is going to be relaunched this year. Interseason was cancelled three years ago. The new fair will be staged from 31 August to 2 September in London.
Organiser JB Events Ltd said the launch will fill the gap after jeans and the young fashion fair 40° was stopped last year. Interseason expects some 60 exhibitors and 2,000 visitors at its first edition.

April 26, 2003

The 95th GDS International Shoe Fair
Heading for a white winter!

The 95th GDS International Shoe Fair taking place at the Düsseldorf Trade Fair Center from 13 to 16 March 2003, attracted 1,535 exhibitors from 44 countries who displayed new materials, looks, leather variations and colour combinations that hit the spot with over 40,000 trade visitors.

This latest staging of the world’s biggest shoe fair set its sights on new fashion formats that spanned the arc from the materials sphere (naturally tanned leather, patchwork and finishing touches in fur) to new inspirations and variations for next winter, as well as sport and sportswear as the ongoing trend frontrunner. Also, the pioneer, aviation, adventure and ethnic fashion themes have really taken off in new directions. Is this a first sign that fashion is facing up with fresh courage to a fraught business backdrop?

Dutch designer Jan Janssen looks at it this way: - If you do without a personal treat such as champagne or chocolate for a long time, at some point you want even more of it. It’ll be just the same with shoe fashions.

Aside from pure footwear information and ordering, there was another trend at GDS: 30 percent additional contracts sealed in the areas of sales planning, services as well as cooperation projects in the field of corporate and marketing strategies. Orders were marked by even earlier annual planning and the rounding out of ranges with a keener eye to the market. As a result, the pre-order quota this time stood at only 20 percent (94th GDS: 25 percent), whereas repeat orders were almost 22 percent (94th GDS: 15 percent). Yet even despite this shift in the ordering process, the timing of the event was rated as ideal and in tune with the market by over 80 percent of visitors and exhibitors as a fixture and frame of reference (product range planning).

Said Joachim Evers, managing director of Dunlop, new to the exhibitors at GDS: - Taking part has been more than worthwhile for us. The international reach and above all the calibre of buyers is one of a kind. GDS is clearly the No. 1 fair worldwide when it comes to business and ordering.-

The 95th GDS remained largely stable both in terms of its visitor attendance figures as well as international flair (over 2 in 3 visitors came from outside Germany) - a result described by industry insiders as good given the difficult global economic climate.

Shoe prices themselves played only a minor role at the fair. Philipp Urban, Chairman of the Central Association of the German Shoe Industry, commented: - Pricing won’t change over the coming months. Right now, it’s the fashions that are totally in the spotlight. Alongside autumn colours, there’s a new hip colour on the horizon: off white!-

This trend was also confirmed by the GDS Fashion Shows, cutting-edge in fashion foresight and more highly frequented than ever! As a trend barometer, they received top marks from buyers.

Once again, the 95th GDS was given the personal touch by its exhibitors who, besides trends, also presented off-beat attractions such as - Manitou’s Shoe - (Tee-Pee), made-to-measure shoes with initials on stainless steel (Jaguar), or prominent guests including Jette Joop and Viva Music TV presenter, Milka.

The scientific congress - Children’s feet and their shoes- moderated by Prof. Dr. med. Rüdiger Krauspe (University Clinic, Düsseldorf) and Prof. Dr. med.Claus Carstens (Orthopaedic University Clinic, Heidelberg) was very warmly received in medical circles.The scientific programme was rounded out by a visit to the GDS fair.

The 96th GDS will take place in Düsseldorf from 18 to 21 September 2003.

March 17 2003
http://www4.gds-shoe-fair.com

Special fashion expo in Hong Kong

Hong Kong Heritage Museum will present the "Fashion Parade: Women's Wears in Changing Hong Kong," starting from March 2, to explore the changing role of Hong Kong women through fashion parade, video documentary and clothing display.

To welcome the International Women's Day on March 8, the Heritage Museum arranged a series of exhibitions and activities aimed at examining the gender implications from various angles, celebrating the contributions of women and exploring the situations and expectations of women in the new century.

Running from March 2 to April 28, the fashion display will portray the impact of local fashion from a social and historical perspective through featuring representative clothing of different eras. Meanwhile, a video program with interviews of several local fashion designers will also be featured during the exhibition.

www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

February 26, 2003

Copenhagen fashion fair beats records

The Copenhagen International Fashion Fair concluded Sunday night, after four successful days, having beaten its own records in several areas. With more than 28,000 attendees and especially a high number of foreign visitors, the CIFF has defined its role as one of the leading European fashion fairs. 28,300 visitors constitute a rise in attendance by 7.5% compared to the CIFF in February 2002. 7,030 fashion buyers came from abroad, which is 8% more than February 2002. The majority of foreign guests were from Sweden, followed by Norway with 1,400 guests and 211 individuals from Finland.Bella Center offered its visitors and exhibitors 70,000 square meters of exhibit area, which is an increase of 75% from the first CIFF in February 1994.

The CPH Vision - held simultaneously - recorded a total of 9,193 visitors, an overall increase of 23% over the previous fair. Of the total number of visitors, 51% came from abroad, making journeys from 32 different nations to the cold, windy North to see what the Scandinavian designers had to offer towards next year's winter collection. From the USA and Canada in the west to Guatemala and South Africa in the south, from Lebanon and Turkey in the Middle East to Japan and China in the Far East.

The next CIFF and CPH Vision will take place at the Bella Center August 7th through 10th, 2003.

February 14, 2003

Londencentral changes location

Due to the expansion of the British fashion and clubwear exhibition Londonedge, its associated exhibition Londoncentral will move to London's Olympia exhibition centre. Buses will be running daily between Londonedge at the Commonwealth Institute and Londoncentral at Olympia. Both exhibitions will run from 9 to 11 February 2003.

Londoncentral and Londonedge together play host to 250+ collections in two closely located venues, with an emphasis on small to medium sized design companies and very often specialising in short order/fast fashion.
By visiting the two shows, buyers will have access to a diverse range of new, innovative, youth culture merchandise. Londonedge was launched in February 2000 as a result of buyer and exhibitor demand. Catering to the alternative and extreme club and streetwear markets, the September 2002 Londonedge exhibition attracted buyers from 35 countries.

December 12, 2002

Bread&Butter moves to Berlin

The next Bread&Butter, scheduled for 31 January to 2 February 2003, will be staged in Berlin, Karl-Heinz Müller, managing director of the event, confirmed this week. In August Mr Muller said the organisation is looking for a new location. "Everything we do in Cologne can only be done in connection with KolnMesse, but we want to be independent", Mr Müller added.

In Berlin, Bread&Butter could reach three to four times the size it presently has in Cologne, but will "not lose its alternative character". There will be a maximum stand space per exhibitor to prevent single companies from becoming excessively expansive.

07-10-02