Kris van Assche debuts at Dior
Belgian designer Kris van Assche showed his first menswear collection at Christian Dior at Paris men's fashion week. Van Assche's presentation, held in an 18th-century style private mansion, marked a change from the rock & roll shows of his predecessor Hedi Slimane, who's celebrity following included muses Pete Doherty and Jamie Dornan. Opting for a more demure presentation, models posed motionless under crystal chandeliers, wearing white shirts with small rounded collars and slim day suits in lightweight wool with subtle pleating or seam details.
The absence of Slimane hasn't gone unnoticed, and his legions of fans are eagerly awaiting his next venuture, with a womenswear line being a likely next move. For those in the fashion world, Slimane's skinny suits were an acquired taste that began a trend not seen in menswear since Armani. Karl Lagerfeld famously lost 93 pounds just to fit into his tailoring.
``He is already missed,'' said Olivier Lalanne, editor-in-chief of Paris-based magazine Vogue Hommes International. ``I think in these last few years, he is really the one who most revolutionised the male silhouette.” Van Assche was previously Slimane's assistant, and his familiarity with the house seemed a natural progression to be offered the design post.
www.diorhomme.com
2 July 2007
Slimane quits Dior Homme
Dior Homme and its star designer Hedi Slimane are parting ways and his successor is already lined up. Dior Homme, part of the LVMH luxury stable, is believed to have lost patience with the tiresome contract renegotiation procedure it endured with Slimane since June 2006. The latter is said to be a stickler for details and was determined to cling to as much control of the label as possible, much to the irritation of the Dior. According to Women's Wear Daily, the company is planning to replace Slimane with Belgian designer Kris Van Assche, who worked with Slimane before launching his own brand in 2005.
The split is a double blow for Slimane who had banked on Dior backing a Hedi Slimane fashion house. The designer had conquered the fashion world with his slightly androgynous, tailored men's wear creations but had hoped to branch out into other product categories like women's wear and lifestyle. However, Slimane and Dior's views on the value of the Hedi Slimane brand and control rights differed greatly. Ultimately, he was unwilling to give up ownership of his name, even though LVMH owns the companies that produce the collections of its other top designers like John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. Sources close to the designer told WWD that he was sad to leave Dior and had “tried to make things work”, but had not wanted to compromise. It is as yet unclear what his plans are next, although he may find a backer for his own fashion house.
Meanwhile, Van Assche and Dior Homme are said to be in talks. A graduate of the famous fashion academy in Antwerp and a Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent alumnus, the young Belgian has been showing his signature label in Paris since 2005. It is not known whether he would continue his own label were he to become Dior Homme's head designer. Dior executives could not be reached for comment.
www.dior.com
29 March 2007
Dior Homme designer in contract negotiation
Dior Homme creative director Hedi Slimane is believed to be in contract negotiations with the label, which currently haven't been renewed, even though the Paris men's show are taking place next month. According to WWD, pressure is building up to conclude the talks, and relations between the negotiating parties are tense. Slimane's failure to attend recent festivities for St. Catherine's Day, a tradition in honor of couture workers, was looked on dimly by Dior management, WWD said.
Whilst fashion contracts generally take time to negotiate, Slimane's agreement expired in July this summer and talks have since not ensued an agreement to continue. Rumours at the time also circulated the Hedi Slimane was working on a women's range. The Dior Homme AW07 show will take place in Paris on 30 January, 2007.
www.diorhomme.com
13 December 2006
Slimane and Dior in negotiation gridlock
Designer Hedi Slimane and couture house Christian Dior are said to be at an impasse regarding his contract renewal. Slimane, who designs Dior's menswear collection, is said to be demanding a remuneration that is causing negotiations to stall. His three-year contract ends next month. According to WWD, the situation can still be resolved, although the trade magazine's sources are already comparing the situation to Tom Ford and Gucci. The Italian Gucci Group stopped its partnership with Ford in 2003, causing shock among the industry.
WWD's sources said that Dior management was preparing for a possible split and the eventuality of searching for a replacement. Although no names have been revealed the sources said the choice was “wise” and would likely be well received by the industry press. Whether either party decides to continue with a women's wear venture, together or independent of each other is unclear. WWD reported that the matter had been brought up during discussions. Both parties refused to comment on the situation.
Slimane is undoubtably the darling of the fashion world, electrifying the fashion world with his tailored men's wear designs in the late Nineties.
www.christiandior.com
19 June 2006
Christian Dior opens in India
Christian Dior opened its first store in India on Monday. The luxury goods brand's store in New Delhi offers Indian consumers the haute couture which they have been clamouring for, from $1,000 handbags to $400 sunglasses. “We thought perhaps it was time to establish ourselves in India,” managing director for Christian Dior's Asian operations told the FT. “Luxury is part of the worldwide opening of India.”
Luxury retailers like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier, Fendi, Bulgari and Dolce & Gabbana already have outlets in India, and others like Gucci and Valentino are following in their footsteps. Western luxury retailers are more welcome in the country now that the Indian government has amended certain legislation pertaining to foreign ownership of a single-brand. Last month the government allowed single-brand retailers to own up to 51 percent of an outlet in India. Christian Dior, however, had already chosen for a franchise before the changes were put into play.
The number of Indian households with an income of $100,000 or more and purchases of $9,000 on designer goods is growing, according to a report which will be released by the Knowledge Company, a division of retail consultancy Technopak, later this week. It said that segment will grow 14 percent each year. With the arrival of luxury retailers, wealthy Indians will become increasingly aware of the value of designer brands. Until now this has not been the case, Saloni Nangia of the Knowledge Company tells the FT. “Being present in a market is crucial to developing it further, but beyond that one needs to get across to the consumer what luxury is all about,” she said.
www.christiandior.com
21 February 2006
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