Designers migrating to global fashion weeks
Designers are migrating to fashion weeks abroad when it comes to key career events. While Matthew Williamson and Luella Bartley are coming home to London Fashion Week in September, to celebrate a 10-year anniversary and store opening respectively, some London designers are taking the chance to explore other fashion weeks. Alongside London label Preen, Noir, the Copenhagen-based label designed by Peter Ingwersen, which has shown in London since the fall 2006 season, will present its collection in New York on Sept. 8.
A spokeswoman for Noir, which is known for its edgy, men's wear-influenced silhouettes, told WWD that Ingwersen wanted to show in New York to address more U.S. press and buyers. However the brand's spring collection, which is made using ethically produced materials, will continue to be exhibited at the Estethica area of the London Fashion Week tents this season, which spotlights ethical fashion. Miu Miu last season showed in Paris, leaving behind its base in Milan, so that the line wouldn't be overshadowed by big sister-label Prada.
21 August 2007
Kate Spade founders to exit company
Kate Space is to see its founding team go, nine months after the company was bought by Liz Claiborne, the ailing American retail conglomerate. Husband-and-wife Kate and Andy Spade will step down from their respective roles as designer and chief executive at the close of spring market, cites Woman Wear Daily. The Spades stated personal reasons for leaving their day-to-day roles, including a desire to spend time traveling with their two-year-old daughter.
They will stay on as members of the brand's board, which will also include Claiborne ceo William L. McComb, executive vice president of Claiborne's direct-to-consumer division Jill Granoff, the new ceo for Kate Spade. "This is a hard decision, and I feel very emotional about it," said Kate Spade in an interview Thursday. "But the emotions would be more about melancholy if I thought we weren't doing the right thing. We are with the right partners — we wouldn't make this decision otherwise. This an opportunity for employees, the fabulous teams we have in place, to take the baton and run away with it."
The Spades, along with partners Pamela Bell and Elyce Arons, founded the firm in 1993. Last November, Claiborne bought the New York-based accessories brand from Neiman Marcus Group (which had owned it since 1999) for $124 million.
www.katespade.com
1st August 2007
Stuart Vevers to design Loewe
Mulberry is to see it's star designer leave, as Stuart Vevers has accepted the post of creative director of Loewe. The Spanish leather goods luxury brand, which is own by LVMH, will see Vevers replace Jose Enrique On Self when he takes up the Madrid-based post in January next year.
Since graduating from the University of Westminster, he has collaborated successfully with Gucci Group's Bottega Veneta and LVMH's own Givenchy unit. In 2002, he joined its Louis Vuitton operation to take responsibility for the runway bags under the direction of Marc Jacobs.
www.loewe.com
27 July 2007
Bella Freud quits Biba
Designer Bella Freud has quit Biba to focus on her own collection. Biba, which shows during London Fashion Week, was relaunched only last year, failing expectations to return to its iconic status of the 60s. "Even when I was working with Biba, I was doing my own collection on a minute scale. Now, I really want to put all of my energy into it. It's still going to be small, but it will reflect all my passion and imagination," Freud told WWD Wednesday.
A Biba spokesman confirmed Freud left the company after the fall 2007 season, but declined to comment on her replacement. The once-iconic label has been undergoing a relaunch with fashion entrepreneur Michael Pearce, the chief executive officer of Biba and creative director of the brand, which was founded in 1964 by Barbara Hulanicki.
Freud, who had been a consulting designer at Biba for three seasons, is not planning to stage a runway show during London Fashion Week. Instead, she'll show her collection as if it were an art exhibition during the run-up to London's Frieze Art Fair, which occurs Oct. 11 to 14.
"I didn't want to be a dot on the London Fashion Week calendar. I thought it would be better to show the collection more in the context of the art fair — and it suits my own timing," she said. In addition to the new ready-to-wear line, Freud has designed a capsule collection of cat-print sweaters for London's Dover Street Market. That collection will be available beginning at the end of this month. Freud launched her ownsake label in 1990.
www.bellafreud.com
21 June 2007
Oscar de la Renta coming to UK
Renowned fashion designer Oscar de la Renta is in talks to open a flagship in London. According to The Daily, the designer is talks to lease a location in the capital. The company is, however, keeping tight-lipped on a possible location and time frame for the opening. The fashion house's chief executive, Alex Bolen, refused to speak about such details but did comment on the brand's current success in the UK. “We're already at three points of sale there,” he said. “Net-a-porter, Harrods, and soon at Browns.” He revealed that other potential cities for an Oscar de la Renta store include Moscow, Madrid and Paris.
Meanwhile, De la Renta earned himself a nod from the CFDA earlier this week. He was awarded the coveted womenswear award, which he shared with fellow designers Proenza Schouler. During his speech, he also included fellow nominee Marc Jacobs. “There are no losers, only winners,” he said.
www.oscardelarenta.com
5 June 2007
Vidler and Nixon
The London-based design duo Vidler and Nixon are relatively new on the block but have already garnered the admiration of a few big names. Sienna Miller and Keira Knightly were recently photographed sporting the brand's Marie coat, a black belted trench coat with a wide skirt featured in their forthcoming fall/winter 2007/8 collection.
Since launching the brand in spring 2006, Stefan Vidler and Kerry Nixon have forged a path for themselves as creators of progressive and non-conformist designs. Vidler, who hails from Australia , and the Scottish Nixon were both working in the arts when a chance encounter made them turn their attention to fashion, where they remain true to their passion for unadorned elegance and edginess. Particularly their menswear demonstrates a bold, quirky streak, with elegant tailoring combined with edgy details like deconstructed collars. For women, the look is all about low-key elegance. High-necked knitwear, flowing skirts, cinched waists and flowing silk jersey cocktail dresses in a subdued palette of dove grey, cream, black and cobalt blue dominate.
www.vidlerandnixon.com
21 February 2007
Col lette Dinnigan back on the catwalk
Australian designer Col lette Dinnigan is returning to show on the catwalk after a one-year hiatus. Having shown in Paris for 12 years, Dinnigan took a year out to spend time with her young daughter. She will show her fall collection at the Carrousel du Louvre on March 4.
Dinnigan, the first Australian designer to ever be invited to show her collection in Paris by the Chambre Syndicale, is well known for dressing such celebrities as Kate Hudson, Naomi Watts, Kate Bosworth, Charlize Theron and Angelina Jolie.
Dinnigan set up her own label in 1990 and her distinctive styles and in-demand designs were snapped up by hip boutiques and department stores around the world, including Harvey Nichols, Barney's New York and Joyce in Hong Kong.
www.collettedinnigan.com
8 February 2007
Phillip Lim wows New York
3.1 Phillip Lim can do no wrong it seems. During New York fashion week the designer pulled out all stops to please his retailers. The consecutive success of strong collections has led Lim to open his first New York store later this Spring, with a second store planned for Los Angeles by the end of the year.
The show, which was held in the now-closed Tunnel nightclub, was titled ‘Pedigree minus Prudence,' and opened with a model wearing a beautiful laundered antique white bow tee with a black double-breasted cocoon coat. The most stunning dress was the closing piece: an ecru silk ganzar tulip pleat column dress with organza waist black sash, and Swarovski encrusted organza tiara headband.
Lim's immaculate tailoring of fine fabrics have given him and edge and he is now a key fixture during Mercedes New York fashion week. Whilst the AW07 catwalk styling may not have been as fresh as it was for Spring, Lim knows what is required to please retailers and has added just enough inspiration to also please the press.
www.31philliplim.com
5 February 2007
Roland Mouret's back
For a moment there it looked as if Roland Mouret had done a disappearing act after his hat trick capsule collection for Gap. Apparently it was just the quiet before the storm. Hollywood 's favourite designer is returning to the world of high fashion with his own collection, RM, which will debut at the Paris couture shows in July. Mouret is launching the collection through 19RM, the joint venture company he formed with Simon Fuller, the founder of “Pop Idol” and the Spice girls. The rights to use his full name are now in hands of his former business partners.
The new collection consists of only 21 looks, made up of dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, jackets and coats and will hit stores in London , Paris and New York in November. “The idea of this satellite collection is for me to be able to express the most concentrated vision of my idea of dressing women, and to deliver that vision to them in the shortest time possible,” Mouret said. According to WWD, the pricing of the label will be in line with brands like Lanvin, Balenciaga and Chanel.
Margiela recycles fashion
Cult brand designer Martin Margiela, designer of the subtle white stitch, has been recycling old trainers. At the presentation of his so-called Artisanal collection, Margiela showed vests cobbled together of vintage gym shoes, a dress of vintage silk head scarves and a jacket made of recycled hand luggage. The limited-edition pieces, which can cost as much as 7,400 euros are said to be a hit with collectors. Meanwhile, the house is preparing for a series of exhibits, including a show opening Feb. 10 at Carla Sozzani's gallery in Milan and a museum exhibit in Luxembourg in April.
According to WWD, spokesman for the house confirmed that Margiela soon would open a shop in Beverly Hills.
www.martinmargiela.com
26 January 2007
CFDA issues model guidelines
The Council of Fashion Designers of America has issued a list of recommendations for the health of fashion models. Hot on the heels of Italy and Spain , the US has finally decided to speak out and take a stand on issues of anorexia and bulimia amongst models. The organisation is leaving the back door open, however, by issuing “suggestions” that are not binding. They include keeping models under age 16 off the runway and not allowing models under 18 to work on fittings or photo shoots past midnight . Models with eating disorders should receive professional help, and at fashion shows, healthy meals and snacks should be provided. Smoking and alcohol should be prohibited. There is no mention, however, of introducing a minimum Body Mass Index, as was the case in Spain . "The CFDA Health Initiative is about awareness and education, not policing,” the CFDA said in a statement. “Therefore, the committee is not recommending that models get a doctor's physical examination to assess their health or body mass index to be permitted to work. Eating disorders are emotional disorders that have psychological, behavioural, social and physical manifestations, of which body weight is only one.”
www.cfda.com
15 January 2007
Rosso acquires Kokosalaki label
Renzo Rosso, the founder of Italian jeans and fashion house Diesel, has acquired a majority stake in Sophia Kokosalaki. The young Greek-born designer, who is based in London , is already a favourite with a growing number of celebrities. “I'm really pleased about the acquisition,” Kokosalaki told Vogue. “It has been in the pipeline for some months and I am 100 percent happy with the way it has turned out.”
Diesel already has a majority stake in avant-garde designer Martin Margiela and DSquared, the popular label founded by Dean and Dan Caten. “Due to these acquisitions, a plethora of well-known designers have contacted the group driven by Rosso to discuss potential forms of collaboration and support. However, Mr Rosso has chosen to focus on the research and development of young talents with incredible depth – often against the mainstream – in order to realize their and his vision of the future of fashion,” Staff International, Rosso's investment vehicle, said in a press release.
The first collection to air under the new partnership – the terms of which are not known – will be the 2007 Fall/Winter show, which will debut in Paris in March. Kokosalaki will continue to work as creative director for the house of Vionnet, a role she took on last year. This transaction will not have any effect on that.
“I admire and consider Renzo a great business person,” the award-winning Kokosalaki said in the press release. “I have a clear vision about the future of my brand and I'm more than confident that with Staff's support and expertise I will get the perfect balance between growth and independent creativity.”
Rosso added that he believes it is “part of my mission” to seek out young talent “outside of the ordinary”. “I have never made any acquisition only to increase the profit of the group, but exclusively because I am passionate about the art and sensibility of certain designers, and in the process of their development product, which results in success. In Sophia, I have found someone who is able to communicate emotions via her creations, and knows how to develop alternative fashion for today's woman.”
www.sophiakokosalaki.com
>> more Diesel
10 January 2007
Friends in the City
Designer Jenny Packham has joined forces with Sex and the City stylist Patricia Field. The daring stylist will be helping her style her autumn/winter 2007 show. Packham and Field worked together on Sex and the City, where Kim Cattrall’s character Samantha wore a great deal of the designer’s collection. “It was great when she asked me to style her show this spring in Milan,” Field told Vogue. “As I had never styled a runway show before, I responded enthusiastically for this new experience. Jenny’s designs have always caught my eye, as I am attracted to glamour in all its manifestations. I hope that my added twist will enhance the presentation and please all.” Packham is just as thrilled with the collaboration. “I first met Patricia through Sex and the City and since then she has been a constant support. Her passion and enthusiasm for creating revolutionary style is world renowned and our collaboration is going to be an exciting one to watch!”
The good news doesn’t stop there. Field says there will be a Sex and the City movie next year. So for anyone suffering from severe withdrawal symptoms, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Miller designs
Apparently not satisfied with making a name for herself as an actress, Sienna Miller is now teaming up with her sister, designer Savannah Miller, to create a ready to wear line. The ex-girlfriend of Jude Law is launching a 28-piece line called Twenty8Twelve – named for her birthday - for fall 2007.
“I've always loved fashion, and Savannah got a First in design at Saint Martins,” Sienna told WWD at the unveiling of the collection at the Berkeley Hotel in London . “We hadn't thought to pursue it together, but this just happened organically. And setting up a label with your sister is a lot of fun – there haven't been any fights yet.” The new business is partially financed by Carlos Ortega, owner of Pepe Jeans, of which Sienna is the face. “Because of my job, people are willing to invest in the business, but my sister's an incredible designer, and it's a great opportunity to work with her.” The first collection is inspired by Dickensian London, Patti Smith and Beat poetry. “We wanted to create that London world that feels inaccessible,” said Sienna.
Roland Mouret designs Rambert Dance costumes
There seems to be no end to designer and high street collaborations. Thankfully, Roland Mouret has kept his fashion integrity in tact, and has designed stunning costumes for the Rambert Dance Company after his capsule range for Gap. Rambert Dance Company, which debuted new choreographed works on Tuesday, is celebrating 80 year of innovation in dance this year. The company dates from 1926 when dancers from Marie Rambert's Russian Dancing School performed a short ballet called, A Tragedy of Fashion, choreographed by Frederick Ashton.
Mouret designed costumers for two short pieces, called Transit and Verge. For Transit, Mouret was inspired by flamboyant director Pedro Almodovar and American artist Cindy Sherman. “I wanted to manipulated the notion of portraiture through the use of the costume, simple and straightforward images of a created female character,' he stated.
For ‘Verge,' Mouret designed loose dresses that draped over the dancers, who mostly danced on chairs. Mouret said he wanted to catch that moment when life changes, the unexpected instant “imagine changing your clothes and a bomb blows up the house, when you are caught unprepared, a flash pose.” Rambert Dance Company will show until 18 November at Sadler's Wells in London. For more information go to www.rambert.org.uk .
Joe Casely-Hayford is master tailor at G&H
Gieves & Hawkes, arguably England 's finest tailors, has been making made-to-measure suits for over two centuries, when the two companies merged to become one in the late eighteen hundreds to outfit the British navy and military. For the fashion historians, some of Britain 's greatest victories were led by G&H-clad men, a history not many tailors can boast in similarity, and in 1809 King George III awarded the label its Royal Warrant. The brand has since moved on to more ornate threads, outfitting everyone from Edward Prince of Wales to The Prince Albert Victor in uniform and daily wear.
Now, in modern times, the company has hired the likes of Joe Casely-Hayford, a London fashion veteran, to its tailor's chair, who is quietly making big plans for the House. Caseley-Hayford is no stranger to tailoring and showed his debut collection at London Fashion Week in 1986 and his first menswear show in Paris a decade later. His defining characteristic: classic and perfectly cut clothing, an aesthetic that resonates with Gieves & Hawkes fine tailoring.
Caseley-Hayford was also the first in what has become a long list of designers to collaborate on a diffusion line with TopShop, and he counts The Clash, Robbie Williams and George Michael as clients. Gieves & Hawkes has only slightly changed course in its 235 years of trading and Casely-Hayford has included several new techniques inspired by the company's archives. Not just a stuffy monarch's tailor or designing bespoke suits for dull diplomats, the total image and creative vision of the house is of beautifully made, bespoke clothing, one that would suit any gentleman.
www.gievesandhawkes.com
20 October 2006
Another top talent at Miyake
Issey Miyake Inc has appointed Dai Fujiwara as its new creative director. Fujiwara is the Japanese design house's second head designer since its founder stepped down seven years ago. He succeeds Naoki Takizawa, who presented his last collection for the house in Paris two weeks ago. Both Fujiwara and Takizawa were tapped from inside the company.
Fujiwara, who has been with the house since 1995, will debut his first collection during the men's shows in Paris in January. The women's collection will premiere in Paris in March. He collaborated on the launch the A-Poc line in 1998 and has continued to co-create it with Miyake. Nobuyuki Ota, the company president, said Fujiwara was “instilled with Mr. Miyake's spirit of exploration and joy of making things”. He added that he knows how to “combine new technologies with existing traditions”, something the brand has become known for.
Meanwhile, Takizawa will launch is own brand under the Miyake umbrella next year.
www.isseymiyake.com
16 October 2006
Gavin Douglas wins Fashion Fringe
Now in its third year, Fashion Fringe, the developing body for discovering and nurturing young British design talent, held its show at London 's City Hall yesterday. The competition, which this year was chaired by Tom Ford, has every reason to smile. What began as a vision from one of the industry's most respectful journalists – Col in McDowell from the Sunday Times – is now a successful platform for designers to flourish and build viable businesses. Previous winners Basso & Brooke and Erdem are doing very well and augmenting their own labels and growing their businesses steadily.
This year's winner, Gavin Douglas, showcased a collection using historical concepts fusing urban trends with couture silhouettes. He was awarded the young Avant-Garde Designer of the Year in 2004 and has showcased collections at Caribbean Fashion Week and Barbados Fashion Week and currently has a collection of work on display at the Black British Style Exhibition at the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery. Runners up include 6 and seven eights, Stephen Harper and Antonio Santana. The event was sponsored by Red Bull, Yoox and L'Oreal and counts Alexander McQueen, Anna Wintour and Marc Jacobs amongst others as its advisory panel.
www.fashionfringe.co.uk
22 September 2006
Roland Mouret's new career
Designer Roland Mouret yesterday announced that he is collaborating with Simon Fuller on a new project called '19 RM'. Fuller, the successful talent agent behind The Spice Girls, Annie Lennox and Pop Idol , and Mouret are equal partners in the new company, whose first projects will be announced within the coming weeks. “I have a passionate belief in talent and creators,” Fuller said at the official announcement at Nobu. “I hope that this combination of Roland as a creator and me as an entrepreneur will be a wonderful partnership.” Mouret shocked the fashion industry when he left his own company and left us waiting impatiently until he revealed his next project. “This is an incredibly exciting opportunity for me,” he told Vogue. “Simon has allowed me the creative freedom to build a new vision of a fashion business and one that is relevant for me today and for the future. His confidence in me as a creative spirit is outstanding and very inspiring and his business knowledge allows me to look at fashion, not just from the catwalk, but from any direction.”
Herrera critiques fashion victims
New York-based designer and style icon Carolina Herrera has lashed out at women who follow the trends religiously. “You have to realise what looks well on you and what is your age also,” she says. “You can't dress like a 15-year-old and be 50 or 60. Some women should buy a very important accessory – a full-length mirror! Put it in some place that when you go out, you look at yourself over and say, ‘I can't believe I'm wearing that!'” Herrera is known for her upper-crust classic style and her passion for the basic, white blouse and has built a successful ready-to-wear house on the premise of elegant simplicity. Never one to show a lot of skin or chose skin tight silhouettes, there are a myriad of fashion sins women can be accused of committing these days. One need only look at the continued trend of the skinny jean, the terrifyingly exposed cleavages on practically every actress at the Emmy's this year, and the return of the miniskirt this fall. Fashion is a veritable minefield of potential faux-pas.
Nilsson quits Nina Ricci
Fashion house Nina Ricci has announced the departure of its creative director Lars Nilsson. The designer is leaving for “personal reasons”. “It's been a really great experience,” he said in a statement. “But I decided to pursue other things.” Nilsson joined Nina Ricci in October of 2003, after having worked for Bill Blass, Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix. Mario Grauso, president of Ricci's parent company Puig Fashion Group, said Nilsson was “a great match” for the company and was sorry to see him go. “We're sad to lose him. He's a very talented young man and we really enjoyed working with him. We really wish him well.” Designer Olivier Theyskens, who shocked the fashion industry last month with his departure from Rochas, is said to be the odds-on favourite to replace Nilsson. Grauso was even spotted at his last show for the how in March. “Olivier's a friend,” Grauso said by way of explanation. “He asked me to come to his show. I admire his work.” According to WWD, Nilsson's departure means that the house will not show at Paris Fashion Week in October, although his design team will present a spring/summer 2007 collection. Nilsson could not be reached for comment.
www.ninaricci.com
25 August 2006
Christopher Kane's debut show Spring/Summer 2007
Christopher Kane is the man of the moment and on every fashion editor’s lips. Why, you may ask, since he hasn’t produced season upon season of the most delectable clothes, or indeed proven himself as a style leader extraordinaire?
For a start, the 23-year old recent Central Saint Martins graduate made heads turn with his graduate MA collection and shooting Harper’s Bazaar covergirl Kate Bosborth wearing one his signature dresses.It should be no mean feat, then, that after his graduation Donatella Versace personally called him to tell him how much she admires his work, or that Anna Wintour invited him to join her front row at the Versace show.
Kane has a design all his own and style-industry insiders have been going wild for his short-as-you-like corseted dresses of lace in nude hues with bold brass-ring detailing. For his graduate show, he was influenced by a fantastic concoction that includes Picasso drawings; Gianni Versace’s early work and a fascination with American beauty-pageant costumes, according to Harper’s Bazaar.Kane is currently enjoying a one-year mentorship and consultancy job, during which he will have access to the magnificent Versace archives and gain invaluable insight into running a hugely successful fashion house.
Throughout his time at Central St Martins, Christopher won numerous awards for his illustration work as well as winning the annual Lancôme Colour Awards both in 2004 and 2005 for his original designs. His work was spotted by one of the judges at Lancôme Nov 05 show and brought it to the attention of Donatella Versace. This led to Versace sponsorship for his MA collection and job offer on completion of MA.
Christopher Kane will be showing his debut Spring/Summer 07 solo show this forthcoming September 2006 supported by Canderel and New Generation – Topshop sponsorship in association with the British Fashion Council.
18 August 2006
Mouret’s new career
Designer Roland Mouret has been spending his creative energy on the arts. Since he left the company that carries his name last October, Mouret has been designing costumes for the ballet. He has designed the costumes for two new productions by emerging choreographers with the Rambert Dance Company, Melanie Teall with Transit and Verge by Cameron McMillan. The dance company, which was established 80 years ago by Marie Rambert, integrates art, music and fashion into dance. “For me, everything starts from the movement of fabric over the body,” Mouret told Vogue. “Dance is the greatest expression of this movement and for me to be able to design costumes with Rambert, from the concept stage, is the fulfilment of a long ambition to work with dancers – and these dancers are some of the best.”
Rambert's artistic director, Mark Baldwin, went on: "This is such an exciting collaboration for Rambert and our two emerging choreographers – to be working with one of the world's most renowned fashion designers. Roland's enthusiasm and artistry will add another layer to the two works, enriching the whole creative experience." See Transit premiere at High Wycombe on Wednesday October 11 and Verge at Sadler's Wells on November 14.
Sadie Frost paid damages in libel claim
Fashion designer Sadie Frost of design duo FrostFrench has accepted “substantial” but undisclosed libel damages at London’s High Court over newspaper claims that she attacked a young model.Associated Newspapers further agreed to pay legal costs run up by her in her action over the article which appeared in the Mail on Sunday on 21 August last year.Her solicitor, Rebecca Leaverm, told the judge that the article appeared under the headline “Catfight in the ladies cost Sadie her lover.”
"The article suggested that during the Project Catwalk post-show party, Ms Frost launched an angry and bullying attack on a young model whilst she was in the ladies’ toilet and that Ms Frost’s attack was so appalling that it warranted her undergoing professional anger management treatment,” said Ms Leaver.She said that the paper now accepted Ms Frost did not behave in the manner suggested and that the allegations they made against her were “untrue".“The defendant has paid Ms Frost substantial compensation for the damage and distress caused by their false allegations,” she said.
What next for Olivier Theyskens
With the house of Rochas due to close, Olivier Theyskens, one of fashion’s bright young talents, will have all eyes on him these coming months. Rumours abound that the designer is up for several new posts – including succeeding Phoebe Philo at Chloe and esteem American fashion house Oscar de la Renta, where he was spotted at last season’s presentation.
Theyskens, who won the International Award at the CFDA awards this year, took over in 2003, Rochas has become one of the most impressive collections on the ready-to-wear calendar, with the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker and Kirsten Dunst showing their support by wearing it on the red carpet in recent months. While the financial state of the company is unknown, it is thought to have still been loss-making despite Theyskens' burgeoning success.
31 July 2006
Loulou de la Falaise brings diffusion line
Fashion and accessories designer Loulou de la Falaise is introducing a diffusion jewellery line. The former Yves Saint Laurent muse and paragon of French chique will unveil the new, affordable line at Bijorhca accessories trade fair in Paris on 1 September. “I noticed whenever I introduced a more accessible design, it would sell immediately,” she told WWD, adding, “A diffusion line is also an opportunity for a designer to play out ideas on a smaller scale.” The diffusion line includes her trademark wolf clasping a fake pearl in its mouth. De la Falaise chose for the motif because wolf is loup in French, and is pronounced “lou”. The prices for the new Fantasies line will range from €50 to €300, quite a difference compared with her collection creations, which can retail for as much as €3000.
De la Falaise launched her business in 2003. Jewellery now makes up 40 percent of it. She believes that her diffusion line will help her reach a broader audience through more distribution. She already sells her collection to about 20 locations throughout Europe, Africa and North America , but said she noticed a resistance from consumers to paying large amounts for fashion. Offering a diffusion line means reaching a younger audience, but she said that although the jewellery had to be fun, it would not look cheap. We can look forward to strands of translucent beads, lacquered wood beads and glass bead as well as precious stones, and colourful strands with butterfly and flower brooches. There will also be fabric bags and home objects to chose from.
www.loulou-de-la-falaise.fr
26 July 2006
Yasmin Yusuf designs for Miss Selfridge
Yasmin Yusuf is joining Miss Selfridge as creative director. The former chief executive of East, for which she worked for only seven months, will join the Arcadia group this September. At Miss Selfridge, Yusuf will focus on building the brand, while group operations director Mike Goring will be responsible for the day-to-day running of the business. “Everyone that knows Yasmin knows she has got great taste and good product direction and it is about developing that brand and range,” said Arcadia boss, Philip Green. “I want her energy on that, and the running of the business, we can do that.” The strategy is different from other Arcadia businesses, like TopShop, Evans and Dorothy Perkins, which are headed up by brand directors responsible for both the design as the operational aspects. Yusuf previously worked for M&S but left in 2004 over concerns over how her job would be affected by the arrival of former George at Asda director Kate Bostock. Prior to M&S, Yusuf was head of design at Warehouse.
www.missselfridge.co.uk
26 July 2006
Furstenberg for President
Diane von Furstenberg has been named President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The designer will be taking over from Stan Herman, who held the position for 15 years. The selection procedure was a long and drawn-out process, whereby Von Furstenberg was pitted against designer Joseph Abboud. The 59-year-old Von Furstenberg – famous for her timeless print wrap dresses – will serve a two-year term, according to the new bylaws of the organisation. She said she hoped to transform it “so that people who are members of the CFDA are proud to be members”. In her inaugural speech she said that she wanted her legacy to be the creation of “an incredible network service system.” She added, “I would like to go to the mayor and see what he can do for us. Our mayor appreciates that the fashion business is a huge business, and I would like to see what we can do together. We will have to talk about the endowment, and overall, create more of a brand for the CFDA, which is something I know how to do.” Von Furstenberg also plans to strengthen bonds with other fashion cities like Paris and Milan . “I want them to respect us,” she said.
www.cfda.com
19 July 2006
Fernando Sanchez dies age 70
Fashion designer Fernando Sanchez died last week at age 70. The Spanish-born Sanchez apparently died of complications following a sand-fly bite suffered two years ago in Morocco. He died in his home in Manhattan. Sanchez moved to Paris from Spain at age 17, where he studied couture with Yves Saint Laurent after having worked for Nina Ricci and Christian Dior. In 1960 he moved to New York, where he designed ready-to-wear and fur before establishing himself as a designer of sleepwear and homewear. He also made a name for himself as an extravagant host. The last two decades of his life he enjoyed a loyal fan base for his brightly coloured, double-faced, brushed-back satin robes and caftans. His designs were available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and in specialty stores throughout the US.
4 July 2006
Jas M.B. to design London Fashion Week bags
Accessory designer Jas M.B., famous for his deconstructed leather bags, has collaborated with artist and New Generation Award winning designer Simeon Farrar to create a line of limited edition bags and ready-to-wear prints for his spring summer 2007 collection.
Inspired by the looks of 30's and 40's Hollywood, the film Casablanca and modern safari prints, the new range of men's and women's accessories exude a pure and organic aesthetic. Hand-drawn pixellated patterns by Simeon Farrar reveal safari-inspired forms on cotton shirting, T-shirts and leather accessories.
For the September SS07 shows, the British Fashion Council has commissioned Jas M.B. - also in collaboration with Simeon Farrar - to design the official London Fashion Week bag.
28 June 2006
Lam joins forces with Tod’s and Modo
Designer Derek Lam is expanding his brand with accessories. He has signed licensing agreements with Tod’s SpA for a line of shoes, handbags and small leather goods, and with Modo for eyewear. Both collections will launch in time for spring. Lam and Tod’s have already been working together for a year. Lam designed the Italian house’s capsule sportswear collection, which was such a success that the company has decided to extend the collaboration for another six seasons.
Lam will design his own handbags, shoes and small leather goods, which will then be developed by a team at Tod’s. The company will produce and distribute the collection worldwide for two years, with the possibility of a three-year extension. “It’s important for me to always do something that continues the statement of the collection,” Lam told WWD. “To me, accessories always have to be sensual. They need to allow women to be comfortable in her own gestures, which is my overall statement in design.” Chief executive of Derek Lam Co. LLC, Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann, said he was in favour of the deal because Tod’s “is truly global, and we always said we wanted to be a global brand.”
Such an agreement is not Tod’s first. “In the past, the Della Valle family has had several licensing agreements with designers such as Azzedine Alaïa, Gianfranco Ferré, Romeo Gigli, Christian Lacroix and Calvin Klein, but in the few years,Tod’s has concentrated all its efforts in successfully producing its own lines,” Claudio Castiglioni, chief commercial officer of Tod’s, told WWD. “Considering the already existing collaboration between the companies in producing the Tod’s ready-to-wear collection, and the good relationship with the designer (Lam), we made an exception.”
Lam also inked a three-year worldwide licensing deal with US-based Modo to manufacture and distribute Derek Lam-branded eyewear, which will be launched during New York fashion week in September. The collection is targeted towards upscale opticians and fashion specialty stores. Schlottmann said that the Derek Lam business has grown 120 percent a year for the past three years and finally made a profit this year. With 45 percent, the majority of sales are generated in the US.
www.dereklam.com
23 June 2006
Design director Bally passes away
Luca Ragonese (37), a design director with Swiss leather goods and fashion house Bally, has passed away. No cause of death was given. “It is with great sadness that Bally announces the passing of Luca Ragonese. Luca was a much-loved and valued member of the Bally team, and he will be deeply missed,” Bally said in a statement.
Ragonese was in charge of the brand's women's and men's ready-to-wear collections and the men's footwear collection. He had been with the company for three and a half years. Prior to that he had been fashion coordinator at Ferragamo from 1999 to 2002 and had also worked as John Galliano's senior assistant in Paris .
www.bally.com
19 June 2006
Vivienne Westwood made a Dame
British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood will be made a Dame today. Westwood, who earlier received an OBE, first came to prominence through the King's Road boutique Sex, which she opened with Malcolm McLaren in the early 1970s.
Seen as a major creator of the punk look later that decade, she has since established herself as one of the most innovative names in international fashion.
9 June 2006
Yamamoto bags Mandarina Duck
Yohji Yamamoto has signed a deal with Italian luggage specialist Mandarina Duck. The designer, who also collaborates with Adidas on its Y-3 sportswear line, will design a line of bags, travel cases and accessories under the name Y’s Mandarina. The new collection will debut for Spring 2007 in showrooms in Milan, Paris, Antwerp, Tokyo and New York. “It will be designed with Yohji’s DNA,” said Yamamoto chief executive, Keizo Tamoto, of the collaboration. He told WWD that the travel theme has featured strongly in Yamamoto’s collections and that the explosion in global travel had prompted him to want to design this collection. “This category, we think, will become more and more important,” said Tamoto.
The range will be approximately 30 to 50 percent more expensive than the standard Mandarina Duck products. It is expected to generate annual sales of €20 million by the third year of the collaboration. Distribution will include specialty and department stores as well as a number of freestanding Y’s and Mandarina Duck stores.“This is the first collaboration we have in our 29 years of business,” said Mandarina Group vice president Sergio Rao. “It is a strategic milestone.”
www.mandarinaduck.com
30 May 2006
Martin Margiela designs couture
Martin Margiela is the latest designer to add his name to the thinning Paris couture calendar. The secretive Belgian has been "invited" by the Chambre Syndicale to the official couture roster this July. A Margiela spokeswoman said the house would exhibit his so-called artisanal collection of handmade pieces in a still-life presentation. Margiela showed his artisanal clothes off-calendar during January's couture. Meanwhile, the house is gearing up for a retrospective in Hong Kong , opening June 7, in the building that will house its new boutique in that city, which is slated to open in late July.
Catherine Malandrino now available online
Designer Catherine Malandrino’s designs will now be available online as the company adds ecommerce to its roster. The online store offers 41 of her designs, with prices ranging from $145 for a Statue of Liberty print T-shirt to $795 for a long, flared trench coat. The T-shirts are exclusive to the web. The looks are each featured on mannequins for easy viewing and shoppers are further assisted by an online size chart.In the future there will be a page containing Malandrino’s personal favourite designs, her inspirations and her take on each season.Although the service is currently only available to shoppers in the US and Puerto Rico, there are plans to roll it out globally next year.
“E-commerce is the most modern way to shop wherever you are,” Malandrino told WWD. “It provides a perspective that everything is reachable.” The designer has stores in various New York locations, Los Angeles and Paris and is planning to open a store in Manhasset in July. Botechnology created and will manage the site. Its other clients include Lacoste and Vilebrequin.
www.catherinemalandrino.com
5 May 2006
New York celebrates AngloMania
Dubbed the party of the year, last night’s AngloMania party at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art – the event is an annual Costume Institute’s Benefit Gala and marks the start of the exhibition – was hosted by Anna Wintour, the English editor of American Vogue.European royalty, A-listers, supermodels and designers alike, all attend the event, without blinking at the $15,000 ticket price.
This year’s theme, inspired by an English rose garden, is all things rustic and eccentric English; the show opens with a faded and distressed Union Jack and two figures juxtaposing a traditional frock coat and a Westwood 1976 Punk version. They represent the exhibition’s subtext: “Tradition and transgression in British fashion.”The sausages and Yorkshire pudding are courtesy of Jamie Oliver, and rumour has it that he tried to substitute champagne with beer on tap.
The exhibition brings together period costumes from the museum’s collection with modern creative goliaths such as dame Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan. For the next four months, the Met’s English Period Rooms will witness the kind of shenanigans not seen since they were transplanted from stately homes.
The term AngloMania is a French invention and was first used in the 18th century when a passion for all things English consumed fashionable Europeans. Anna Wintour stated that even today she sees a clear difference between the way New Yorkers and Londoners dress. “There aren’t too many Isabella Blows walking around Manhattan. It is a much more manicured feel. Sienna Miller, on the other hand, is the perfect example of that English thrown-together look, which is why I wanted her to co-chair this gala.”The exhibition runs until September 4th in Manhattan.
3 May 2006
Doo.Ri – hot young designer
Doo.Ri is a name that looks primed to become a whole lot more familiar to British fashion fans, as designer Doo.Ri Chung brings her much talked about womenswear line across the pond to Harvey Nichols. Back in New York, she's quite the golden girl with the papers and glossies that count championing her design talents.
As with so many of America's favourite designers, her skills were honed at the legendary fashion hothouse, Parson's School of Design. After that she sharpened them further at Geoffrey Beene, another American fashion legend if ever there was one.
The collection you'll find at the London store is a beautifully subtle and sensual meld of masculine and feminine shapes, and fluid and harder fabrics. The palette of fleshy neutrals was inspired by the moody and often hazy images of fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville, now regarded as iconic. The individual pieces are feminine (there are loose jersey tops, elegantly draping dresses and ruffle-front coats) but there's a structured, more masculine undertone running throughout the collection. Fitted but wide-in-the-leg pants exemplify this. This is not trumpet-blowing fashion, but something more ethereal for women who like to keep their statements subtle. It's a sentiment that will no doubt prove as popular on this side of the Atlantic as it has on the other.
Cavalli courted by private equity firms?
Private equity firms such as SAB Capital appear to be interested in fashion house Roberto Cavalli. A source close to the Italian designer has revealed that he was disappointed by valuations of his company by several bidders. WWD, who spoke with the source, reports that Cavalli believes his company to be worth in excess of €1 billion and is seeking minority investments or a possible public offering in a few years.
Although company executives have declined to comment, WWD revealed that one of the private equity groups said to have shown interest is SAB Capital, a new fund set up by Sheikh Salah Al-Belawi. According to market sources, SAB made a friendly bid of 60 percent. According to these sources, SAB is looking to make other investments in the luxury fashion sector. Roberto Cavalli SpA made a net profit of €1.4 million in 2004, on sales of €97.7 million. He also has a number of licensing deals, including that of his Just Cavalli brand, which is licensed through a separate company based in the Netherlands called Iga Finance BV .
www.robertocavalli.com
1 May 2006
Vera Wang opens in Greece
Designer Vera Wang is opening her first bridal salon in Greece this summer. The boutique in Athens will open in June, followed by an official opening in September. “We had been servicing a number of customers from Athens through our own stores, who had travelled here (New York) to buy our gowns,” Susan Sokol, president of Vera Want Apparel Divisions, told WWD. “We did research and found there is a customer in Greece who appreciated Vera Wang's point of view. We felt there was an opportunity.”
The bridal salon, which is Wang's core business and how she made a name for herself, will sell bridal gowns and accessories, and eventually her fragrance and home ware pieces. The bridal gowns will retail for an average of €4,500. “There are 55,000 weddings a year in Greece,” said Sokol. “Of course, we don't expect to address all of those weddings, but we identified terrific partners who are passionate and knowledgeable about the bridal business.”
Recently, the company has been aggressively expanding its business internationally. In the past year-and-a-half it has opened bridal salons in Brown Thomas in Dublin; the Shangri-La Hotel in Singapore and Shanghai; the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Jakarta, Indonesia and in the Shilla Hotel in Seoul, Korea. “We are starting in a focused way to build international opportunities,” said Sokol. “It gives us the opportunity to leverage the bridal lifestyle component.”
www.verawang.com
26 April 2006
Roland Mouret will be back
This week is Roland Mouret's last on the job. He will be leaving this namesake company to take some time off, but don't expect him to drop off the radar forever. Speaking with vogue.com, he did not rule out working for an established fashion house, although he would not confirm the rumours that he is taking over from Phoebe Philo at Chloé.
“It's not about how famous the specific label is really – I would definitely like to do it – if the challenge was great enough.” However, he might prefer to launch his own new label. “I think women go for the feeling or the aesthetic of a designer so if they like what you do they'll come with you,” he said.
Meanwhile, Roland Mouret Design Ltd, announced on Wednesday that its entire archive is for sale under a ten year license. Current owners Sharai and Andre Meyers are selling the sample and pattern archive of the 12 collections since spring/summer 2002. “The archive contains 548 styles, with their respective patterns and samples, including the hugely successful Galaxy and Titanium dresses together with their evolutions for autumn/winter 2006/7,” they said. “The company will continue to trade to oversee the above license deals but has no plans to launch new collections at this point.”
www.rolandmouret.com
12 April 2006
Roberto Cavalli gets prison sentence
He may be responsible for some of fashion's sexiest dresses, but that didn't stop the Italian court system from sentencing the designer to 14 months in prison. Cavalli, who was found guilty of tax evasion, has appealed the sentence, which, under Italian law, means the diminutive designer will not have to start the sentence until the appeal is completed.
Cavalli was accused of putting an £1.8 million refurbishment of his home through his company as expenses.
30 March 2006
Goodbye to a fashion icon
Iconic designer Oleg Cassini died last week at the age of 92. Cassini was famous for dressing Jackie Kennedy and numerous Hollywood beauties.
He was born in Paris in 1913 and grew up in Italy. He led a fashion house in Rome before moving to the US in 1936. “He arrived with a tennis racket, a tuxedo and talent and he made it into an empire,” his wife Marianne, a former model and current president of Oleg Cassini Inc., told WWD. “He was a man's man and a ladies' man. He was a tremendous creator in women's wear and tremendously creative in men's wear.”
Cassini was at one point engaged to Grace Kelly and married another beauty Gene Tierney in 1941. He attributed his good fortune to his “enormous talent”.
22 March 2006
Cavalli in stripes?
Designer Roberto Cavalli could be facing a two year jail sentence for fraud. Judge Linda Vannucci is currently deciding on a verdict and a possible sentence for the 65-year-old celebrity designer, who is alleged to have claimed the £1.5 renovation of his villa in Tuscany as a business expense.
Cavalli has defended himself by saying that is home is also his place of business, and therefore tax deductible. “My house is not my home,” he is reported as saying by Vogue. “It's my workplace, it's my office, it's my imagination and where I have fashion shoots. It's the place Madonna, Sting, Cindy Crawford and Jennifer Lopez try the clothes I create. I have to have luxury, my work requires it and my house is used for VIP parties. That's why I claimed the cost against my firm's tax liability.”
Meanwhile, Cavalli lives in this house that is not a home with his wife and three children.
www.robertocavalli.net
22 February 2006
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood is being heralded for her menswear, sold at Selfridges and Harvey Nichols in London. Following her catwalk presentation during Milan men's fashion week, Westwood followed the main colour and fabric trends, but cut her garment with her usual eccentric flair.
Powder-faced models wore sharply cut suits with wide lapels, longer sleeves and a more relaxed silhouette in shades of grey and black with peach, berry and blue complemented on shirts, trousers and knits. Westwood also sent out Scottish warriors in oversized tartans screaming on trousers and suits. The British theme was softened by Glen checks on Crombie-style coats.
2 February 2006