Designer doodles

A new T-shirt site has hit the digital highway with the launch of bagaspnanerz.co.uk. Twenty-year-old York-based designer, Carly Godwin, started her business with the help of the Prince's Trust and is already making waves in and around York .

She sells T-shirts adorned with brightly-coloured doodles of cows and pigs and caterpillars and bees that she has christened ‘Baga Spanerz', because “their faces were like a bag of spanners. They all had ginger hair and were quite ugly to look at, but I changed them to make them look cuter.”

In addition to the T-shirts, Carly is also launching a limited-edition zipper top in gold with a tree – completely with the trademark eyes - as seasonal design. Winter sees the introduction of hoodies adorned with a penguin design. For spring 2006 expect to see a yellow chick and a red ladybird is in the planning for summer. The plan is to launch 100 of each seasonal top and to sell them with an authenticity tag. The T-shirts retail for £24.95, while the limited edition tops sell for £40. Her target age-group is 16-30, although Carly has indicated in an interest in designing for children. Meanwhile, don't hesitate to check out her site.

www.bagaspanerz.co.uk
3 November 2005

Roland Mouret quits his company

Designer Roland Mouret has shocked the fashion industry by quitting Roland Mouret Design Ltd. His backers Sharai and Andre Meyers, the creative director and chairman respectively, made the announcement on Wednesday. “It's been an incredible five years, and unfortunately, things don't always work out the way you want them to,” Sharai told WWD. “It's a regrettable thing. It got to a stage where there was less common ground than there needed to be. I'm sure Roland will go on to do amazing work.”

Mouret will continue as head designer for the next six months and will design the autumn/winter 2006/7 collection, which will be presented in February. Meanwhile, the name Roland Mouret will remain the property of the company until plans for the future name are decided upon.

The Meyers, who set up and own 100 percent of Roland Mouret Design Ltd, established the company in February 2000, two years after Mouret's debut at London Fashion Week. They do not yet know if they will replace him. “There is a strong, talented bunch of people who are already here,” said Sharai. “And they are the way forward. Roland was a big part of the team, but he was only a part of the team.” Sales for the year are expected to be around £2.8 million and Andre said that spring/summer 2006 sales already exceeded the £1 million mark.

www.rolandmouret.com
27 October 2005

New designer at Brioni

Italian fashion house Brioni has appointed Spanish designer Cristina Ortiz creative director of its women's collection. “It makes sense that a woman should be designing for women,” Umberto Angeloni, chief executive of Brioni, told WWD. “Ortiz marks the next phase of Brioni's women's collection, which is a more mature phase.” He also said that he believes that Ortiz can bring focus to the collection, something that her predecessor could not.

Ortiz will replace Fabio Piras, who enjoyed only moderate success with the women's collection. Ortiz, who designed for Lanvin from 1997 to 2002 and consulted for Prada and Max Mara, plans to add femininity to the line while adhering to Brioni's DNA. “I don't wan to take form men's clothes and put them on women. I want to take the quality of Brioni and details from its tailoring, and transmit them into a collection that is current and feminine. The collection is for a woman who is sophisticated and refined,” she said.

The women's line, which was launched in 2001, has generated about 8 percent or €14 million of Brioni's annual sales. These are expected to reach €172 million this year. Angeloni said that the women's collection should grow to about 25 percent of Brioni's sales within the next five years. Ortiz's first fall 2006 collection will be revealed during the Milan shows in February.

www.brioni.com
20 October 2005

Paul Smith revs up!

It seems an unlikely collaboration, but designer Paul Smith and motorcycle manufacturers Triumph have joined forces to create nine limited edition Bonneville motor bikes. Customised with targets, Union Jacks and paisley prints, Smith's natty colours and irreverent touch are evident.

Paul Smith has also designed a fitting line of jeans accessories, including vintage-style biker boots and belts. Paul Smith and Triumph are cut from the same cloth; with long-standing British heritage, classic design stle and a global cult following, according to Tue Mantoni, Triumph's commercial director. Rev up your fashionable engines now!

7 October 2005

Aganovich & Yung

The scene was one of grown-up glamour and sultry sophistication as design duo Aganovich & Yung lit up South Kensington's Ciné Lumiere with an electrifying show on Wednesday afternoon. The darkened movie theatre was the perfect backdrop for the rich, jewel colours and sumptuous silks and satins favoured by the pair.

Silhouettes were sleek, fluid and graceful, accentuated by the drapery of the luxurious fabrics. Pencil skirts, cocktail dresses and pant suits in electrifying red and indigo and black were reminiscent of sultry 40s filmstars. Waistlines were high and accentuated, like the ones favoured by Katherine Hepburn. Meanwhile, collars were high and starched like those in Chinese dress. Dresses and jackets featured capelets and peek-a-boo cutouts for a shock of unexpected skin, uncovered by the shortened drapery of extra fabric, while pleated cap sleeves added playful femininity to the dresses.

22 September 2005

Aimee McWilliams

In a departure from her usual subtle palette designer Aimee McWilliams infused her spring summer 2006 collection with bold colour. On Tuesday afternoon McWilliams presented her vibrant new collection at the Royal Acadamy to an excited audience.

Employing a variety of textures and colours, McWilliams managed to infuse her creations with life as structure flirted with soft, feminine fabrics and a daring use of colour added excitement to the clothes. Vibrant fire-engine reds, burnt oranges, chocolate, mustard, olive, pistachio green and indigo were worn alone or combined for dramatic effects, while soft leathers were paired with silk, satin, chiffon, cotton and hand-pressed sequinning for an eclectic and exotic effect.

The look was entirely Rock Princess meets exotic Femme Fatale. Skinny satin trousers, satin pencil skirts and tiny leather hot pants were paired with gold sequined tops and damask silk belted kimonos. The silhouette was fitted and daring, and although I doubt I could get away with wearing over half of McWilliams collection, it nevertheless made my heart beat a little bit faster. In a world where even the most inexperienced become quickly jaded, it was lovely to be so pleasantly surprised again.

21 September 2005

New talent spotted at Fashion Fringe

Fashion Fringe is the place to discover London's most prestigious fashion designer talent. Last year's winners Basso & Brooke, the duo who's provocative and risqué print collection sent retailers into a frenzy, have been expanding their fashion-design business with the £100,000 prize money. The talent search – which was the brainchild of Sunday Times Style editor Colin McDowell – is now in its third season and this year four candidates are competing for one of the most coveted awards of the British fashion industry.

Designers Erdem Moralioglu, Jojo & Malou, Modernist and Mary Donoghue will be showcasing their Spring Summer 2006 collections with a hope to see their creations in some of the most desirable stores both in London and internationally. Fashion Fringe will be held in London on September 22 nd during London Fashion Week.

13 September 2005

Oh a no-show

Designer Justin Oh has opted not to participate in the next two seasons of London Fashion Week. Instead he will be focusing on expanding international sales and his list of UK stockists. As an experienced alumn on the catwalk, Oh will produce both womenswear and a capsule menswear collection for spring summer 2006 and autumn winter 2006/7, which buyers and press will be able to view privately. In this way, he will be allowed more time and and money to concentrate on sales in New York , Paris and Milan .

“This is a strategic break redeploying financial resources to direct the Justin Oh label into an international name and move towards developing opportunities within new markets, expanding the Justin Oh label worldwide,” said the company on Wednesday.

www.justinoh.co.uk
8 September 2005

Ben de Lisi off schedule

With chaos surrounding the planning of the London Fashion Week this season, some designers are taking matters into their own hands and planning their shows on their own terms.

Ben de Lisi, who was offered a far less viable slot than he was used to, has chosen to show at the On/Off show at the Royal Academy on Sunday 18 September together with new talents. It is a known fact that both buyers and press prefer the early shows to the later ones, and the 50-year-old De Lisi has wisely chosen not to elude the press.

His show will take place at 12.15.

www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
6 September 2005

Jovovich meets her Matches

Milla Jovovich appears to be becoming as successful a designer as she is a model and actress. Matches founder Tom Chapman thinks so and is endorsing her label, Jovovich-Hawk. “We ran into her at the Premiere Vision fabric fair last season,” Chapman told vogue.co.uk. “There she was, this famous model and Hollywood star, choosing all the fabric for her designs all by herself.”

Having launched her label two seasons ago, Jovovich is reported to be opening a boutique in New York later in the year. Are there any plans for Jovovich in London ? “I believe it's only carried in Fred Segal currently but what I saw of it was very strong,” said Chapman. “It's definitely worth considering.”

30 August 2005

Zac Posen teams up with Jaguar

Designer Zac Posen seems to have caught the collaboration bug. Having just unveiled jeans with Seven For All Mankind, the designer is now teaming up with car firm Jaguar for a collection of driving gloves. Posen created gloves in racing green leather with his signature gunmetal closure. The gloves will be launched in conjunction with the unveiling of Jaguar's new XK sports coupe at the Frankfurt Motor Show in Germany on September 12.

Posen is expected to present the gloves at his spring 2006 fashion show three days later. The gloves, which retail for USD350 a pair, will be available at both Bloomingdale's stores in Manhattan this fall, and select European boutiques.

17 August 2005

Temperley branches out

Alice Temperley designs some of the most beautiful dresses to grace the female form. A favourite on the red carpet, her creations are beyond the scope of most of our budgets. Thankfully there is a new way to own a Temperley creation, by investing in pieces from the limited-edition Luxury Travel Collection she has designed together with Penhaligon's. A key ring retails for £22.50 with prices rising to £395 for an overnight bag.

“I was very excited when we were approached by Penhaligon's about a project with them,” Temperley told Vogue. “It was an opportunity to realise my design ideas in another medium and I was thrilled that it should be a brand that I have so long admired. I wanted to create a collection of leather accessories that was as rich, beautiful and luxurious as the Penhaligon's fine fragrances. Every piece in the Collection was designed to be treasured and loved for a lifetime.”

11 August 2005

CFDA's newest finalists

The latest batch of bright young things to conquer the fashion market has been selected by the powers that be. The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue have chosen the 10 finalists to vie for the second annual CFDA awards. The finalists were picked by a committee consisting of industry experts from a group of 65 semi-finalists. Those to make it to the exalted finals are Anthony Nak (Nak Armstrong and Anthony Camargo), Atelier Jean Yu (Jean Yu), Costello Tagliapietra (Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra), Derek Lam, Isabel Toledo, Lutz & Patmos (Trina Lutz and Marcia Patmos), Mayle (Jane Mayle), Project Alabama (Natalie Chanin), Thom Browne, and Trovata (John Whiteledge, Sam Shipley, Josia Lamberto-Egan and Jeff Halmos).

In August, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Selection Committee will meet all of the finalists. They will conduct interviews with them and review their collections. The winners will be announced in November. Last year Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack Mc Col lough won the coveted $200,000 (£112,000) cash award. Last year's runners-up Alexandre Plohkov of Cloak and Michael and Nicole Col ovos of Habitual received $50,000 for their firms. The money is generally used to develop the business in terms of production, sales, marketing and public relations. The main winner will also receive guidance and support from the underwriters of the fund for one year.

Joining said underwriters – Vogue, Barneys New York and Kellwood Co - are Coach and Juicy Couture. The selection committee consists of such fashion luminaries as Peter Arnold, executive director of the CFDA until next week; editor in chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour; Julie Gilhart, vice president, fashion director of Barneys New York; president and executive creative directorof Coach, Reed Krakoff; executive vice president and president, women's wear at Kellwood, Steve Ruzow; Sally Singer, fashion news director of Vogue; Lisa Smilor, associate director of the CFDA, and Vera Wang, president and CEO of Vera Wang.

www.cfda.com
4 August 2005

Boateng wins court case

British designer Ozwald Boateng is in a celebratory mood after it was announced last week that Marchpole's appeal against him had been dismissed. The appeal was in regard to Debenhams O-Z range and its related sell off period. Marchpole designs, licenses and sells clothing for various designers, including Boateng.

Marchpole has now been ordered to pay £150,000 and interest from March 2004 in damages, the original amount of compensation due to Boateng's company, Bespoke Couture, for discontinuing the diffusion range.

Ozwald was relieved at the Court of Appeal's decision. “This unnecessary dispute has put my company through a great deal of pressure and has, until now, forced us to put some of our expansion plans on hold. Marchpole's ultimately futile action against my business and me personally has been exposed as meritless. I look forward to finally tying up loose ends in the Coiurts and am glad that justice has been done in this matter. I sincerely hope that we shall soon be able to end by a further Court decision this relationship so that we ate Bespoke Couture can get on with our lives and continue to develop our business.”

www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk
1 August 2005

It's time for Berardi

Designer Antonio Berardi is embarking on the time of his life, in terms of fashion achievements. Part English and part Sicilian, the former Saint Martins student has announced that he will be showing his collection in Paris for the first time and is also working on his first ever ad campaign, which is costing him €90,000. The campaign was shot by Michelangelo Di Battista and features Bianca, whom Berardi describes as “the big new Italian model”, with campaigns for Missoni and Cavalli as well. The ads will appear in British Vogue in October.

Berardi has been a regular feature on the Milan catwalks for the past five years. “Milan has become very business-oriented, which means that aside from runway shows, there are a string of showroom presentations, press conferences, appointments and lunches that make it more difficult for smaller brands,” Berardi said in an interview. He had tried to get a slot for the Paris shows last year, although that didn't pan out. “It's very exciting,” Berardi said. “They offered us a slot on the last day. But it was a very young day and everybody kept telling that most press and buyers would go home after YSL the day before.”

For the shows this year, Berardi approached the Didier Grombach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, the governing body of French couture. “I went to see Didier Gromback and explained what we were trying to do with the company. He was extremely helpful.” As a result, Berardi's collection will be shown in Paris in October, along with major fashion houses like Louis Vuitton and Lanvin. Berardi admitted that he had iniatially considered showing in London before chosing Paris and said that he would love to return to British soil one day. “It's going to take more than one person to significantly improve the reputation of London Fashion Week,” he said, “We're going to have to get everybody back; Stella, McQueen, Hussein...”

Next season Berardi is also opening a showroom in New York . “I also considered showing there. New York is less frightening than Paris , but Paris is where I want to be. Where Milan is corporate, Paris is creative,” he explained. “People come to see the shows – they're not so motivated by their advertising budgets.”

28 July 2005

American Express supports new British designers

Having put financial muscle behind British labels Alexander McQueen and Boudicca, American Express is offering support to new names in the U.K. fashion industry via a new venture called Business Express. AmEx will choose a recipient each year. The first is Yong Hei Fong, a graduate of London 's Central Saint Martin 's College of Art and Design. He will take part in a series of one-on-one mentoring sessions with leading figures in the world of retail, fashion and finance. Those mentors include Alexander McQueen, Jane Shepherdson, brand director of Topshop, and Sarah Mower, a freelance journalist at U.S. Vogue.

He also will talk to strategic financial advisers at American Express. “The industry has long been crying out for this kind of support,” McQueen said in a statement. “I'm really pleased to be involved in it. Being instrumental in helping young designers build successful careers is important to me.”

24 July 2005

Cavalli on the rocks

The colourful Italian designer Roberto Cavalli has announced his intention of creating his own vodka. "This vodka is clear, captivating and brilliant - like the women that inspire me," Cavalli said in a statement. The new bottle holding the liquor, which is made from the best Italian ingredients - will feature a snake coiling around it. The vodka will sell for around £30 for 750 ml. It will be available from September 2005.

The designer, who has already agreed to redesign the Playboy bunny costume, is known for his extravagant, sexy dresses that are worn by models, actresses and music stars alike.

18 July 2005

Galliano's dinner debacle

During the couture week in Paris Dior's press staff invited a group of heavy hitting fashion journalists to join the house's creative director John Galliano for dinner. The instructions were to show up at the newly refurbished club on rue Ponthieu, which is off the Champs Elysees. "Come after ten," said Dior.

The group included the universally feared Suzy Menkes, influential critic Virginie Mouzat, editor-in-chief of Madam Figaro, Nicole Picart and Vanessa Susskind, who is heir to the largest French family-owned fashion magazine group.

However, the group arrived, feeling particularly flattered, to a no-show from Galliano. There was no sign of a dinner either, not even a little snack to whet the appetite. Apparently Dior got their facts mixed up, because it appeared that Galliano was indeed hosting a dinner 100 yards away at the hip bar and restaurant Matisse. Oops!

14 July 2005

Ferré at the V&A

Highlights from the archive and 2005/6 Fall/Winter collection of Italian fashion designer Gianfranco Ferré are being shown in the UK for the first time, at London's V&A Museum. The collections are inspired by the designer's many travels and passion for cultures around the world.

Ferré founded his company in 1978. He was appointed artistic director of Christian Dior in 1989, where he designed Haute Couture and women's pret-a-porter until 1996, when he began to work for his own company exclusively.

Gianfranco Ferré is known for his trademark reinvention of the white shirt and for his elegant designs. He has a reputation as an innovator when it comes to the manipulation of material and uses techniques like laser cutting cloth to create perforated designs. For tickets to the showing on 13 July, please book early, as ticket availability is limited. To book, call 020 7942 2820.

www.vam.ac.uk
29 June 2005

Queen's couturier honoured

Sir Norman Hartnell, couturier to the Queen, was honoured yesterday. He was remembered with an English Heritage Blue Plaque, which was unveiled at 26 Bruton Street, W1, which was his home from1935 to the time of his death at age 78, in 1979.

Hartnell was first commissioned by the Royal Family in 1935. He dressed the late Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II, but also dressed the stars of that time including Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh and Elizabeth Taylor. His biggest commission was in 1938, when he created the entire wardrobe for Queen Elizabeth's visit to France just five days after her mother, the Countess of Strathmore, passed away. The wardrobe had to be entirely in white, which is the colour of mourning, and he had only three weeks to make it. In 1947 he created Queen Elizabeth II's wedding dress. Hartnell was appointed MBE in 1953 when he made her Coronation dress and in 1977 he became the first couturier to receive a knighthood.

The plaque was revealed by Kenneth Partridge, who designed Hartnell's shop's interior, and Oscar-winning costume designer Julie Harris, who worked with him.

12 May 2005

Eley Kishimoto Meets Ellesse

London design duo Mark Eley and Wakikio Kishimoto have teamed up with Italian sportwear label Ellesse and produced a nostalgic tenniswear inspired collection set to score serious style points. The latest collaboration has the unique stamp of Eley Kishimoto's work all over it, and meant that during last London Fashion Week they were the only name with the game, set, and match accolade of having two on-schedule shows.

EleyKishimotoEllesse range boasts three all new prints - 'Tennis in the City', 'Racquet', and 'Shooting Ball' - slickly served up in bright and bold colourways to adorn a selection of ace kit. Dimple-skimming tennis skirts and dresses, bomber jackets, handkerchief vests and patterned tennis shoes are crowd-pleasingly retro in a Seventies kind of way.

Eley Kishimoto have taken the ball and run with this opportunity to create something reminiscent and playful but entirely original at the same time - wear it with pom-pom socks and you'll be worthy of centre court attention. And it could well be the start of a beautiful doubles act as a deal has been signed to produce two more collections.

Ellesse have been dressing athletes since 1959 and their heritage-rich back-catalogue of sweat-in-it-wear was, of course, the divine inspiration for this latest sports-fashion-fusion offering. Available at Shop, Basement, 4 Brewer Street, London W1 (020 7437 1259).

10 March 2005

Vivienne Westwood Unveils Diamond Safety Pins

Safety pins may not conjure up the slightest association with coveted jewellery, unless perhaps you are Vivienne Westood, grand dame of all things punk. Miss Westwood has designed a most exquisite range of - well - safety pins.

The British queen of fashion has created a collection of diamond jewellery, filled with white gold safety pins. Beautiful diamond pendants dangling from pins. As Westwood herself said: "Safety pins are really brilliant things. They're lovely to look at, and they're very effective to work with, which is why I started with that shape," said the designer, who unveiled her collection, Vivienne Westwood Hardcore Diamonds, in Paris this week.

The collection features Westwood's signature orb logo, which is covered in diamonds for cuff links and earrings; arrow shapes for rings and earrings, and paper-clip chains, broken arrow and heart shapes for necklaces. Prices from £300.

3 March 2005

Young Designers showcase

The London Fashion Forum is holding Profile Select, a one-day event showcasing the collections of young UK designers, on March 9 in Vinopolis in London.

There are two catwalk shows at 4pm and 8pm. House of Fraser, Debenhams and Hobbs will present awards to the best womenswear, menswear and accessories designers at the later show. Top shop will sponsor the new category of Best New Designer.

23 February 2005

TK Maxx looks to Ireland

TK Maxx, the cut-price designer fashion retailer, is planning an aggressive expansion into the Irish market. The company is to open 25 new stores in Ireland over the next three years, bringing its total to more than 30 outlets. It has retained Colliers Jackson-Stops, the Irish arm of property-consulting firm Colliers to help it find suitable premises.

7 February 2005

Pierre Cardin for sale

The French fashion designer Pierre Cardin is planning on selling his couture and licensing businesses and his Maxim restaurant concerns for $1 billion (GBP 540 million). The Cardin empire encompasses everything from silk ties to champagne, which falls under the Maxim header. Cardin has operated the famous Maxim restaurant since 1981.

The 82-year-old Cardin is selling his businesses in order to focus on what he truly loves, the arts and cultural charity, he told reporters. Initially, he will only be selling his haute couture business and related licensing contracts.

www.pierrecardin.com
8 December 2004

Joseph for sale

Karen Millen founder Kevin Stanford and GUS are understood to have entered the bidding race for designer business Joseph, which is up for sale. BNP Paribas, the French investment bank, was appointed to conduct a review of the business in September, is poised to begin marketing the business.

Joseph has already attracted interest from several trade players including Stanford, GUS and former Selfridges boss Peter Williams, alongside ex-M&S creative director Yasmin Yusuf. GUS is said to be interested in acquiring the business, possibly through its majority stakeholding in Burberry. Burberry has proved a fruitful investment and the group hopes it can repeat the success with the Joseph brand.

Belgian investor Albert Frere, who acquired a 58%stake in the business for £98.5m in 2001, is believed to be looking for an exit in a deal that could be worth between £70m and $100m. Joseph has 64 stores and 50 UK stockists. Recent figures put sales at around£52.8m and pre-tax profits at £9.5m.

6 December 2004

Seussentenial Fashion

A host of British fashion designers created a range of Dr Seuss inspired pieces to celebrate the famous writer and cartoonist. Designs by the likes of Philip Treacy, Swarovski, Scott Henshall, Lulu Guinness and Agent Provocateur were auctioned last week in aid of MacMillan Cancer Research.

The Bulgarian embassy in London hosted the event with guests including Julien Macdonald and the Marquis of Bath attending to watch the pieces being modeled by stunning models. The event managed to raise £10.000 for the cause. For those who weren't invited, Dr Seuss original artwork is on view during the evening at the Animation Art Gallery in London.

2 November 2004

Young designers revive old guard

Everywhere we look young, relatively unknown designers are taking on head-designing positions at established fashion houses. Ever since Tom Ford revived the flailing Italian luxury brand Gucci and transformed it into a must-have for every fashion maven's wardrobe, the fashion industry is seeing this phenomenon repeat itself over and over again.

Belgian designer Oliver Theyskens at Rochas, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and the Swedish Lars Nilsson at Nina Ricci, to name just a few. These young designers are chosing form and silhouette as defining elements in their collections, as opposed to theme-related shows, which used to be the norm for these houses. The trend for the designers is to immerse themselves in the couture archives of their respective houses and to incorporate traditional elements into their designs. However, the new designers manage to create their own look and image, lending the brands a contemporary feel.

Furthermore, their marketing efforts are aided by the great names of fashion icons associated with these houses in the past. For Nilsson this means an automatic link to Jackie Onassis, who was a client of Nina Ricci in its heyday. It is no wonder that Nilsson is so popular with the current Park Avenue set and it is only a matter of time until Hollywood catches on, as it has caught on to the new and improved Balenciaga and Lanvin.

www.reuters.co.uk
www.guardian.co.uk
11 oktober 2004

Comme This Way

Comme des Garcon designer Rei Kawakubo's new London store is a market-style emporium, according to Vogue. Described 'as a beautiful kind of chaos' the retail concept is due to open later this month on Dover Street with 13,000sq ft of space, spread over six floors. Inspired by London's old Kensignton Market, the store is Kawakubo's most unconventional project to date. "I have always like the feeling and the energy of London and I have wanted to open my own store here for a while, but I wanted to do it in a new way."

In addition to the Comme brands, labels throughout the space include Azzedine Alaia, Olivier Theyskens, Raf Simon, Decades vintag by Cameron Silver and an exclusive line by Lanvin designe Alber Elbaz. The Dover Street Market will be a constantly evolving project, always changing and never finished, according to Kawakubo. And while the merchandise may be a little more expensive than your average market stall, it will be much more imaginative and groundbreaking.

17-18 Dover Street, W1
14 September 2004

LARC Helps Start-up Designers

The London Apparel Resource Centre (LARC), which supports start-up designers, will promote its services at London Fashion Weekend (September 19-23) in a bid to raise its profile. It also plans to hold open days and a road show.

The non-profit-making initiative is funded by the London Development Agency and offers designers information about starting a business, including costing and sample production. LARC will hold two open days in August and September at its site in north London. Its roadshow will visit colleges including the London College of Fashion. The project's steering committee includes representatives from retailers including River Island. It hopes to get manufacturers, designers and other retailers involved in the project.

LARC director Chris Yianni, director of Mark Anthony, said: "Graduates leave college without a clue about the vital things needed to begin business. If they don't understand the practical side of the business, they will never be able to make a living. We shouldn't waste these graduates, we need to help them." The LARC is based in Florentia Clothing Village, north London, and includes showrooms, factories and workshops.

3 August 2004

Jas M.B. Opens In London

London-based accessory designer Jas Shembi has opened his first shop in Soho in London, Doors by Jas M.B. Already globally renowned for his beautiful hand-crafted leather bags and accessories, the new shop boasts some covetable goodies previously not available.

The deluxe goods, which are currently sold at shops ranging from Liberty to l'Eclaireur and Selfridges to Barneys are a unique blend of functional shapes and vintage design classics. With leather to die for, the key finishes are butter soft smooth calf leather, rawhide pony skin and uniquely distinctive cracked leather which has somewhat become his trademark.

Collaborations with designers are the next project for the designer, starting with a range of co-branded accessories for Celux store Tokyo, which is a part of Louis Vuitton Japan. An exhibition at United Arrows District gallery in Tokyo featuring the current line and artwork is now being planned for late August. Prices for bags start at GBP100. For more information contact 020 7494 8822 or visit the shop on Ganton Street, W1.

20 April 2004

Ford's Final From Film To Fashion

With the final collections for Gucci and YSL a thing of the past, Tom Ford is a free man. Ford's departure is the end of an era, as much for the designer himself as for the houses he trademarked and brought back to fashion.

Rumour has it that neither Gucci nor YSL will be fronted by high-profile designers, as has been in constant guessing by the fashion press. Nor is Ford to head Versace, the Italian answer to over-the-top chic. Gucci womenswear will most likely be fronted by Alessandra Facchinetti, who was previously Ford's chief lieutenant at the Group. Gucci menswear is to be headed by John Ray, who previously designed for Katharine Hamnett. Although these appointments remain unconfirmed, the time of highly paid, high profile designers seems to be a trend of the past, and these two fashion houses are remaking the mould of success without having star names in an attempt let the brands and their luxury speak for themselves whilst still having control over their futures.

Ford's last collection for YSL was nothing short of genius. Sophisticated and elegant, cocktail dresses in beautiful Chinese silk prints and carefully tailored satin shirts worn with an eau de nil pencil skirt made their way down the catwalk in thunderous applause. Ford, who is to leave Paris for America, had bowed out of fashion and is moving into the film industry.

With an estimated fortune of GBP130 million, Ford is in no hurry to take the first project to come along. Joining the ranks of well-known Hollywood producers, his ambitions lie in directing and he signed up with an agent looking for the next big thing.

8 March 2004

Red, White & Blue For Paul Smith

Paul Smith, one of the few British designers who has not fled London for Paris or New York at the first sign of international success, proved Britishness is still at the core of his brand. A mix of slick tailoring, prints and strips his usual eclectic blended fashion for autumn winter 04 focused on a nautical theme of red and white stripy knits, navy peacoats, and cream box pleated split skirts.

Silk snaffle scarves and gilt accessories adorned the red, navy, blue and white reworked into cropped and skinny trousers and tailored jackets. Buoyed up by 14 shops in England, 200 in Japan and many more in other countries from France to Taiwan, it is his reputation for designing a certain type of British clothing that ensures that his customers will buy regardless of the season's trends.

17 February 2004