New CFDA members announced

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Board of Directors revealed the names of the council's 12 newest member earlier this week. "This year's applicants represent the best of what's being produced in American fashion today," said president of the board, Stan Herman, in a statement. "These new members are very close to being at the top of their game already."

The new members include Alexis Bittar, Thom Browne, Doo-Ri Chung of Doo.Ri, Nicole Colovos and Michael Colovos of Habitual, Rod Keenan, Derek Lam, Carlos Miele, Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy of Juicy Couture, Alexandre Plokhov of Cloak and Italo Zucchelli of Calvin Klein. Herman told WWD that the twelve new inductees "are all at the cutting edge, and have established businesses, and that is a wonderful combination."

The process of chosing new membesr is a challenging undertaking for the CFDA. The procedure is initiated by invitation and election only. Each candidate must be designing in the US or must have his primary base in the US. The candidates are required to submit a cv, a portfolio, materials that best represent their work and letters of recommendation from two of the current 276 members who work in the same area.

Once inside new members are given invaluable support for their business and careers. "It's great to be a new council member of the CFDA," Derek Lam told FWD. "It is with great excitement to see what I can learn by being involved with all the other designers in the industry as well as I hope to fully support and actively participate in the work."

A cocktail reception will be held for the new members on 23 August at the home of CFDA board member Vera Wang. This will be the fourth annual celebration to be hosted by a different board member each year.

www.cfda.com
21 July 2005

Black's the new black

Consultant designer Graeme Black is set to launch his own label in September. Not that he is planning on abandoning his work for Italian fashion house Ferragamo any time soon. Having worked for the house for the past six seasons, he anticipates a strengthening of his bond with it in the future.

"It's a fantastic opportunity to work with the luxurious DNA of the house and its incredible heritage," he told vogue.co.uk. "Each season I read all the books and go through the archives to ensure that my work is a reflection of this amazing family and what they have done for fashion."

Ferragamo stands for Italian luxury leather goods and classic apparel, and is renowned for its structured ballet shoes that were favoured by the likes of the legendary Audrey Hepburn.

Black's designs for Ferragamo lean towards the classic elegance with which the house has become associated. The lines are structured, elegant and feminine and hark back to the glamour of the 1950s. For autumn/winter 2006 waists are nipped, skirts flair elegantly and the emphasis is on the slender silhouette. His designs celebrate the beauty of femininity.

However, Black is now turning some of his attention to a label of his own. Why? "I wanted to create my own identity. I wanted to ask myself, 'What's my favourite colour, what's my favourite fabric?'" Black intends to start small and will eventually open his own store.

"With this project there is no pressure to do anything - I don't have to have three-button jackets - I don't have to include anything I don't feel is natural. It's about a return to true craftsmanship. It's about having a relationship with my customers. I want them to feel when thye come here that I'm the tailor, working away in the back of the room. I want them to feel like they'd like to add these clothes to the collection that is their wardrobe. Thre're really special pieces." Spoken like a true craftsman and lover of the aesthetic.

www.graemeblack.com
19 July 2005

Say No-oh to Boho

Finally. As the summer sales draw to a close and the fall pre-collections hit the stores, we can blissfully say farewell to all things boho. The lead-up to summer saw an endless array of flouncy, bouncy skirts, available in every imaginable colour, fabric, print and texture, showcased in windows of fashionable boutiques, department stores, high street chains and online shops. In other words the peasant skirt became the summer's uniform for the dedicated fashion follower, and you couldn't turn a corner in London without spotting one. Or two. Add to that a wedge heels or espadrille (conspicuously found in every shoe store known to man), and finish off with Woodstock-inspired accessories and the complete look is yours. And whoever said that fashion can't brainwash the masses?

Sienna Miller became the style icon who embodied the look better than Abba, Joni Mitchell and Bo Derek put together. Her playful hair always tastefully messy, never coiffed, wearing mostly skinny ribbed tanks, probably C&C California, with raggedy skirts or skin tight jeans, thigh-high boots and enough jewellery to set up market at Spitalfields. While Sienna's apparent nonchalant approach to embracing boho style kept her in constant editorial (it required a lot of effort, we think), the high street quickly caught on and soon you couldn't spot the difference between collections ranging from TopShop or H&M or River Island. Even M&S saw an opportunity to keep up with a trend and introduced a wearable peasant-skirt. And so begin fads en masse.

International designers, thankfully, know when a trend has been going a season too long, and radically shifted the mood for the new winter collections. Frivolous detailing from the fashion's hippie trail were quickly changed to a more tailored contour, and peasant-girl looks replaced by a more formal aesthetic, though hardly demure. Prada and Marni, the inspirations to over-accessorising jackets, handbags, lapels and waists, are now producing sleeker, more minimal, elegant collections, and the robotic pins and gigantic-sized key chains are to be a thing of the past.

The hippie trail, it seems, has come to end and there's a new road in fashion that has nothing to do with boho or the like. We wonder what Siena will be wearing this season.

16 July 2005

Stefanel confirms return to proft

Italian fashion group Stefanel SpA has sold one of its Milan stores to Swedish fashion chain H&M in a bid to downsize its distribution chain. The group confirmed its prediction to return to net profit in 2006. The group has sold its store, located in the centre of Milan, to H&M for €10 million.

Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera reported that Stefanel repeated its expectation to return to profit as it expands its product range. According to the paper, the company plans to boost its sales of footwear and accessories to between 20 and 25 per cent, up from 10 percent of its total sales. The group, which operates brands including Stefanel, Marithé + Francois Girbaud, Be and Hallhuber, achieved net sales of €192.1 million for the first quarter of fiscal 2005.

www.stefanel.it
14 Juli 2005

Less is more

Last weekend the fashion house Gianfranco Ferre shortened its name to Ferre. CEO Massimo Macchi - who was appointed four months ago - made the announcement during a press conference and highlighted the division into the company into three core divisions. Gianfranco Ferre will represent the haute couture and luxury ready-to-wear, Ferre will stand for the key commercial collection and GF Ferre will be geared towards younger, contemporary clients.

Macchi maintained that calling the company just Ferre meant that the label would have "a more simple, aggressive image." After a number of a years restructuring and consolidating the company after it was acquired by Italian manufacturer IT Holding, Macchi is convinced that now is the time for Ferre to grow. He revealed that the house achieved sales of €145 million (£99.8 million) last year.

As it stands, fashion represents 70 per cent of Ferre's total sales, while sunglasses generate 15 per cent. Macchi intends for leather goods to grow to represent 35 per cent of total asles in the coming years. "We are planning for 10 per cent annual growth over the next five years, even higher in the first two," Macchi stated.

www.gianfrancoferre.it
7 July 2005

Mouret glitters

Fashion designer Roland Mouret is diversifying into diamonds. The French-born British designer is busily working on a new line of glamorous, cutting-edge pieces made with rough diamonds.

Mouret is supported in his new venture by Sally Morrson of the Diamond Information Centre, who threw him a party in New York this week. Reportedly, Mouret was there modelling some of his pieces himself. According to pagesix.com, Morrson is also the press representative for Elizabeth Taylor - she of the knock-out diamonds. This must bode well for Mouret.

30 June 2005

DKNY London talent search

London continues to be a hotbed of creativity - according to DKNY. The company has chosen to sponsor the fashion, textiles and accessories areas at London's "New Designers" exhibition, which starts today and runs through July 10.

The exhibit, held at the Business Design Centre in Islington, features the work of more than 3,000 U.K. students, and DKNY will award two prizes of 1,000 pounds for innovative and creative work. The company's creative team also will pick several designers and exhibit their work in its Bond Street store for six weeks this autumn, to coincide with London Fashion Week. DKNY will kick the exhibit off by co-hosting a party with Wallpaper magazine on Sept. 22.

30 June 2005

Marina chic

In a celebratory mood after Tony Blair's victory last night the couple gave the press some face time before entering Downing Street 10 this morning. Cherie chose a navy and white ensemble for the occasion. Although very conservative, the choice for a marine look coincides with the current trend on the catwalks. Heralding Cherie as a style icon may be a bit far-fetched but she gets brownie points for trying.

Marine chic is being toted as one of the choice looks for the summer. The nautical look feels and looks fresh in the summer heat. It's a look that keeps popping up on the radar over the years. It's timelessly chic and stylish and can be worn to the beach or the boardroom, depending on how you dress it up or down.

Various designers have dipped their design pens into the nautical inkpot this season. Alexander McQueen introduced a diverse range of navy and white looks to suit a variety of occasions and personalities including a white jacket with navy trimming atop a short, wide navy skirt with white stripes that gives the naval look a flirty, feminine twist. Chloe offers its own version of marine beauty with a very pretty white dress with navy stripes along the bottom.

Meanwhile Dries van Noten pairs an oversized navy blouse, cinched at the waist with a navy and white striped belt, with a pair of white bermudashorts. Helmut Lang does a fabulous deconstructed navy and white dress, remiscicent of Picasso's blue period for those who prefer a bit more edge to their wardrobes. Stella McCartney creates a more casually put together look with a boxy jacket over a jersey shirt and skirt. The outfits are accompanies by espadrilles with a high, chunky heel, leaving the wedge heel out of the equation. For a more classic look, Michael Kors offers great jersey tops and pretty eyelet and gypsy skirts. Oversized sunglasses and gorgeous thong sandals complete the picture.

So, ladies, if you have not done so already, rush to the shops and buy yourself a lovely little navy or striped top. Pair it with a pair of white pedalpushers, a flirty skirt or a pair of your favourite jeans. Finish off with a small white scarf tied around the neck and a pair of flat sandals or espadrilles and enormous sunglasses. You'll be wowing them down at the marina.

5 May 2005

Elizabeth Hurley Launches Swimwear Range

Supermodel, actress, and producer Elizabeth Hurley has launched a new swimwear range called Elizabeth Hurley Beach. Hurley, who once famously dated Hugh Grant, is known for her penchant for sexy outfits, and catapulted to instant fame when she wore a Versace dress held together by safety pins to the premier of the film 'Four Weddings and a Funeral'.

Hurley's new swimwear range is more than just another celebrity designing another fashion collection. Credited by the fact that Hurley is an avid beach lover, she has enough of a business brain and market sense to support such a venture. According to You Magazine fashion director Caroline Baker, the swimwear is cleverly designed to bring out the beach babe in all of us.

Hurley's secret is to colour-coordinate the swimwear with accessories. Sarongs and kaftans can be worn over the bikinis and swimsuits, and lycra tops come in the same colour as bikini bottoms. The colour palette of the range is complementary and hues of chocolate, white and aqua can be mixed and matched, to ensure versatile looks on your holiday, rather than wearing the same bikini for the duration.

The gorgeous 39 year-old has proven that motherhood is not a deterring factor in keeping her fabulous figure. Other style tips from Hurley include using a good self-tanner before going on holiday - to make you feel beautiful without overdoing it in the sun, and having a sexy beach towel if you're akin to sunbathing. Lastly, a good book to keep you occupied when you've checked all the talent on the beach. Elizabeth Hurley Beach is available exclusively at Harrods from Tuesday.

www.elizabethhurley.com
9 April 2005

Parc des Expositions

Julian Roberts has returned to work with textile designer and collaborator Sophie Cheung to create another innovative label, Parc des Expositions. Roberts first established fashion label nothing nothing, which he auctioned off on eBay, and was the youngest ever UK Professor of Fashion.

The new label was launched on the last day of London Fashion Week and the duo believe that Parc des Expositions is "about so much more than just ‘us two’". This could not be truer. Sophie and Julian left the design of the first collection, Future Generations of Ourselves, to 22 students from the University of Hertfordshire. This collection involved their famous technique for pattern cutting called Subtraction Cutting as a starting off point. From there the students took off in their own directions.

"They are the real designers," says Julian, "We just light the match and fan the flames". Further to being a mass collaboration based on mathematical principles combined with creativity, Parc des Expositions is unique because it has given students direct access to a London Fashion Week audience. Previously, this was an exclusive privilege of the graduates of Central Saint Martin's.

28 February 2005

Artext to launch new product

Artext, the London-based fashion design and print industry software provider, has announced that its first professional design product for the industry, called Text Style, will be launched on 1 March. Text Style is professional fashion and print design software which enables the user to convert colour photographs into colour readable text. It is a new design tool that includes a Text Draw application which allows fashion and textile designers to draw with text.

The new tool has been developed with the user in mind, with a simple user graphically designed interface. It allows users to create samples instantly by selecting an image, the format they wish to save it to, type a message and then convert. The firm's software is recognized by Microsoft as a new digital design tool.

The name Text Style is self-explanatory: (fashion) designers are able to incorporate designs using words and pictures, a form know as 'Artext'. Using numbers, characters, words and photographs, designers are able to design hip and creative young designs. Text Style is the first tool of its kind to have been developed and will signify a breakthrough for both fashion and textile designers.

www.artext.com
22 February 2005

Walker's winner

The New Zealand designer Karen Walker has proved that she is not afraid to share her winnings with new talent. When the designer won the Air New Zealand-sponsored Fashion Week Export Growth Award in October, she revealed that she would be sharing the $20,000 prize money with a young designer.

Walker has kept her promise, choosing Auckland-based Adrian Hailwood as the man to look out for. In February the pair will fly to London Fashion week on the prize money and Walker will be introducing Hailwood to all of fashion's big hitters. "Adrian is clearly hungry to grow his business and to export, and his latest collection is thoughtful and has a fresh look which is important in terms of potential export success," she told the New Zealand Herald.

Meanwhile, Hailwood is thrilled at the faith that Walker has placed in him. He already has stockists in London, Japan, Singapore and Los Angeles and is determined to raise his profile in Europe and Asia through these openings.

22 December 2004

Designer Teens

Blame it on shows like the O.C. and films like Clueless, but it appears that teens today are becoming increasingly outrageous when it comes to buying clothes. These days, if you're not sporting designer duds, you simply don't count. Only a generation ago the average teen strutted around in Levi's and Vans. Now it's Burberry's, Juicy Couture, Seven for Mankind jeans and Uggs.

In the US teens spent $191 billion (GBP104 billion) on designer clothes. According to Marshal Cohen, chief analyst for the US marketing research company NPD Fashionworld, teen's tastes have become more sophisticated. Fifteen years ago they were drinking Cherry Cokes, and now it's Grande Skinny Lattes.

Designers are very aware of teens as a prime target market and make use of the fact in their marketing campaigns. Luxury leather retailer Dooney & Burke features teen actress Lindsay Lohan in its ads and Versace sought out Christina Aguilera to model its couture dresses. Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren employ gorgeous, privileged teens in a number of their ad campagnes. According to Donatella Versace, teenaged girls "go crazy for luxury these days."

Not only wealthy teens are spending small fortunes out designer products. A number of those that have part-time jobs spend all their hard-earned money on clothes. The average second year university student has an outstanding credit card debt of more than $2000, according to Cardweb.com.

Reality shows like "Rich Girls", which featured Hilfiger's daughter Ally, and "The Simple Life" with Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie have also undoubtedly contributed to the way teens perceive their micro cosmos. With role models like the ridiculously spoiled Paris, parents have their work cut out for them.

7 December 2004

From hats to hotels

British milliner Philip Treacy has been named design director for The G. The flagship hotel, property of the Monogram Hotels group will open in Galway, on the west coast of Ireland, next summer.

The five-star-hotel consists of 96 rooms and will be Treacy's first project in the hotel industry. He was first inspired to work in interiors when he designed a chair for the 40th birthday of lifestyle store Habitat earlier this year.

Gerry Barrett of Edwards Holdings, which owns Monogram Hotels, is delighted that Treacy has accepted the challenge. "His work has a touch of genius about it that we want to capture for The G," he said.

30 November 2004

Valli own label

The designer Giambattista Valli has announced that he will launch his own label for autumn/winter 2005. He was previously creative director of Emanuel Ungaro for seven years but has handed over the reigns to Vincent Darré.

Valli has signed a five-year license with Gilmar, a central-Italy-based clothing company. Gilmar is responsible for brands such as Iceberg and Frankie Morello. As of next week, Valli will be co-creative director of Iceberg, together with Paolo Gerani, the son of Gilmar founders, Giuliana Marchini and Silvano Gerani.

Valli announced that his own label would be high end and would only be available at select stores. He also indicated that he plans to open a store in New York in 2006.

27 October 2004

TopShop sells newcomer Wang

UK superstore TopShop is to sell a small collection by new designer Simon Wang. Mongolian-born Wang, who studied fashion at Ravensbourne College, debuted at On/Off during this year's London Fashion Week.

His collection, called The Tango, fuses both Chinese and European influences. The women's wear is colourful and dramatic. In this collection Wang favours the use of luxurious cashmere.

Wang's collection, which will feature some signature pieces, will be on sale at TopShop's flagship store on Oxford Street from February 2005. Wang is not the only designer to have been assisted by the London Fashion Forum in selling a capsule range in-store. Fellow designers such as Gozi, Michelle David and Koru also benefited from the same assistance. All Wang needs now is backing to support the strain of production costs!

www.topshop.co.uk
6 October 2004

M&S Director Leaves To Design Own Range

Yasmin Yusuf, creative director of womenswear at Marks & Spencer, is to leave the business in order to develop her own clothing range. The widely respected Yusuf is leaving M&S at the end of September after three and a half years. She said: "I have enjoyed being at Marks & Spencer during a fascinating period. Limited Collection is now launched and I want to take time to breathe and to fulfil a long-held ambition to develop my own clothing line."

Chief executive, Stuart Rose said: "Yasmin has made a significant contribution to womenswear. She has improved our design capability, developed our approach to 'top to toe' dressing and played an important part in launching Limited Collection. I am grateful to Yasmin for all she has achieved and wish her well for the future." Her departure comes as Kate Bostock, the product director of Asda's George clothing range, joins the business as director of womenswear. Bostock takes up her new role next month.

>> more M&S on FashionUnited
9 September 2004

Puss In Boots At Gaultier

French maverick designer Jean-Paul Gaultier was inspired by all things western for his Autumn/Winter haute couture show. To the soundtrack of Wild West film themes and thunderous hooves came some of the most interesting fashion of this week's Paris shows.

Long coats and capes in shiny calf were shown in autumn hues. Models made their way down the catwalk wearing the most luxurious fur fox and mink capes and sexy thigh boots with fur edging on the fastenings complemented the styles. Slim pants and even miniskirts proved the designer hadn't lost his flair for appealing and wearable clothes.

After all the rich, furry styles appeared, a startling all-satin outfit in sunset colours hit the runway. Trousers, blouse, boots and wrap all came out together in hot red, purple, turquoise and pink, adding up to a trouser outfit with an incongruously colourful cowboy look.

Evening wear was softened by several long dresses in smoky blue and other pastel chiffons, casually draped or ruffled. The highlight however, was the capes. Whether in python, felt, velvet or fur, they looked fantastic.

Leather was used sparingly but beautifully. After all, Gaultier's main backer is the house of Hermes, whose boss, Jean-Louis Dumas, was watching in the front row.

9 July 2004

P Diddy Menswear Designer Of The Year

Multiple-identity and talented hip hop artist cum designer P. Diddy or Puff Daddy or Sean Combs has received the award for American menswear designer of the year. Combs was ecstatic about receiving an award that he has been craving for years.

After four previous nominations, Diddy's Sean John collection was named menswear designer of the year, beating Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors, by the Council of Fashion Designers Monday evening.

"I'm very happy as you can see," said Combs, 33, who, wearing a white tux, danced his way up to the podium at the New York Public Library. "I've had some things I've had on my mind for a few years."

He also mentioned that years ago he stood in the Ralph Lauren store "saving my pennies" for a new Polo shirt. "I am living the American dream." He then declared: "Ralph, you're still the sexiest man on the planet!"

10 June 2004

Madeleine Press Wins Best Sportskit Of The Year

British womenswear designer Madeleine Press has won the best designed sports kit award for the England netball team's sexy Mitre 'Superstar' dress.

Press, who's sleek tailoring and feminine cut clothes have attracted a celebrity following including Gwyneth Paltrow, combined technological fabrics with modern design to make a real fashion statement on and off the court.

The dress was just one part of a larger netball collection designed by Madeleine and available from www.mitrenetball.com.

11 May 2004

Margiela Opens In London

Elusive Belgian designer Martin Margiela opened his first UK store in true Margiela style. Translation: without any hype, bang or celebrity following. The shop, which has been left architecturally raw, has been spray-painted white, leaving the natural décor of the mews house intact. That way the focus stays on his beautiful clothes and accessories. Limited edition British Margiela tees to commemorate the recent opening are on sale at a bargain price of GBP40. Only while stock lasts, of course!

Martin Margiela, Bruton Place, London W1.
14 April 2004

Hollywood Beckons Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney may be hot on the heels of Tom Ford when it comes to fashion's most wanted in LA Movieland.

The designer is being closely watched by Miramax guru Harvey Weinstein, the man behind the film Cold Mountain. He was recently spotted on the front row at Stella's show in Paris and has been overheard saying McCartney would be brilliant at designing costumes for his epic films.

Designers such as Giorgio Armani have a long relationship history with Hollywood, having designed the clothes for the famed flick American Gigolo, which were recently on display at the Armani Retrospective exhibition at the Royal Academy.

12 March 2004

Red, White & Blue For Paul Smith

Paul Smith, one of the few British designers who has not fled London for Paris or New York at the first sign of international success, proved Britishness is still at the core of his brand.

A mix of slick tailoring, prints and strips his usual eclectic blended fashion for autumn winter 04 focused on a nautical theme of red and white stripy knits, navy peacoats, and cream box pleated split skirts.

Silk snaffle scarves and gilt accessories adorned the red, navy, blue and white reworked into cropped and skinny trousers and tailored jackets.

Buoyed up by 14 shops in England, 200 in Japan and many more in other countries from France to Taiwan, it is his reputation for designing a certain type of British clothing that ensures that his customers will buy regardless of the season's trends.

17 February 2004

Designers Reveal Inspiration

With London Fashion Week just around the corner, the timing is perfect to find out what influences and inspirations the designers had for their autumn 04 collections so we can have our wardrobes ready for next season.

Julien Macdonald says that winter 04 is all about ultimate luxury. "It embodies the early years of Madonna with her raunchiness and sexiness twisted with incredible glamour and sophistication." Colours are rich and sumptuous - think deep turquoise and blood-red to burgundy."

Preen: "Our autumn collection has a strong focus on luxury, versatility, wearability, simplicity, structure and volume."

Juston Oh: "Lingerie and country sport themes bring tweed, net, satin and cotton together for this autumn campaign."

Boyd: "1950s glam rock with big-time luxury as the grown-up girl clashes with future youth."

Miki Fukai: "influences from German artist Joseph Beuys and Dutch photographer Ed van der Elsken sit alongside Victorian-styled heavy tailoring. This season, expect the unexpected."

London Fashion Week catwalk shows take place on February 14-19. Info on: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk.

www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
3 February 2004

From Fogey To Fashionista

You may recall the childhood story of someone you know who was poor and young with no money to buy new clothes and so had to wear his father's cast-offs. Being deemed a fogey is not hip when you're a teenager.

Or so we thought. Wait long enough and fashion catches up with you. Tom Ford's designs for the latest Gucci collection show a young man on the catwalk in just the sort of clothes you dear old Pa used to sport:

Smoking jacket, floppy bow tie, even the obligatory cigarette and glass of whiskey. Perhaps it's time to go raid your dad's closet.

19 January 2004

Martin Margiela To Open London Store

Belgian designer Martin Margiela is poised to open his first UK store this March on Bruton Street, London. Margiela, who designs men's and women's wear, has six stores worldwide - three in Japan, two in Paris and one in Brussels. Other stockists include Harvey Nichols and Selfridges.

12 January 2004

James Lakeland To Open First Store

Designer James Lakeland will open his first store in London next March. The franchise has secured a trading space at what is now Leather Classics in Kings Road, London.

The store will bear the James Lakeland name from March 20, and will carry the Lakeland collections, as well as stock make up of other labels such as Pianur Studio and Helena Sorel.

Lakeland states: "It's a done deal with the store's owner. This joint venture will run for a year to start with but if it is successful it should work into the future. I will be looking after the store's design and branding with the help of creatives that I am presently in talks with in Italy."

12 December 2003

Roland Mouret Opts for New York

Rising start Roland Mouret is defecting from London Fashion Week to show in New York this season as designers find it tougher to get sponsorship in the UK.

The Frenchman was a significant draw to London and his collections stood out because of his ability to combine a sophisticated use of fabrics with a design edge more often seen in Paris than at LFW.

UK designers are suffering from the tougher economic climate. The bigger companies that have sponsored designers in the past have cut budgets.

Design duo Boudicca is among the lucky ones. It secured backing from American Express last month. American Express also supports UK designer Alexander McQueen.

29 July 2003

Patrick Cox Denies Ad Ban

Patrick Cox is denying that his latest advertisement was banned, since he only ever intended to run it once. The ad, which ran in the April issue of ID magazine, depicts two men wearing jock straps wrestling in a gym locker room behind the naked legs of Sophie Dahl. The Advertising Standards Authority investigated after receiving a complaint from a reader who said that the ad "seemed to depict an act of buggery". Cox protested that it was "colourful, fun and beautiful" and in line with the "liberal, imaginative style" of the magazine and said that since its spring/summer advertising season was now over, it had no intention of running the ad again.

ID, meanwhile, said that it had a reputation for "cutting edge, innovative and often provocative" imagery and said that its audience was well acquainted with the style of David LaChapelle, who shot the ad. They also said that both men in the photograph were wearing jock straps, making penetrative intercourse impossible. The complaint was upheld, however, in light of the fact that approximately five percent of ID readers are aged 15 to 17. "The plan to run it once was not a way of pre-empting a ban," says a spokeswoman for Cox. "We simply hadn't used it before because people were keen to run ads that had more coverage of Sophie Dahl. It is a homoerotic image but it is perfect for ID and many of the other ads that ran in that issue were a lot more provocative."

6 June 2003

Virtual Designer

Forget the prestigious St. Martins school of Fashion or Parsons for that matter, if you want to learn how to design the perfect frock it is just a mouse-click away. Fashion designers Julian Roberts and Sophie Cheung have set up a virtual pattern school on their respective website to show you how to cut the perfect garment.

The school is an extension of the MA Textiles course at the Royal College of Art and distributes cutting techniques in a few lessons for those interested in clothing construction.

Their initiative aims to deconstruct the myth that garment construction is a lot of mystery, therefore taking it out of the boundaries of the classroom to a wider audience.

Materials not included.
<Don-Alvin Adegeest>

23 May 2003
www.julianand.com

Here Comes the Sun

This summer, sunglasses go from retro chic to aviator cool. As designers are continuing to draw their inspiration from the 50s, 60s and 70s, so too you will need the perfect shades to complement your halterneck dress or metallic-driven Barbarella look.

For a one-off pair of vintage sunglasses, try Cutler & Gross (020 7590 9995) in Knightsbridge, next door to their other-already-famous spectacles shop. Prices around GBP 129. Costume National launched their first UK Eye Collection last month, offering pretty metallic and aluminium frames and sexy aviator models. The latter comes in great colours, ranging from black to fuchsia, and will look fabulous with your Marc Jacobs early seventies graphic style prints and leaf-green flares.

If, like me, your tan seems to last longer than owning your sunglasses, and you are not foreign to leaving them in restaurants, changing rooms, or taxis, why not try the more friendly-priced Miss Sixty specs. Their new 35-piece collection includes wrap-around metal fronts with sunblasted finishes. Or, if it's anonymity you desire, why not opt for their mirrored lenses in light blue, pink, beige or dark brown. Their modern take on the aviator style is detailed with butterflies on the side, no doubt loved by Mariah Carey. Enquiries, 01635 277 277.

A tip for the boys: don't leave home without your Ray Ban's. They are the ultimate in stylish sunglasses this summer, and have been on the Hollywood hitlist since 1937.
<Don-Alvin Adegeest>

14 May 2003

Fernanda Gattinoni dies

Italian fashion designer Fernanda Gattinoni, whose elaborate creations were worn by such screen stars as Audrey Hepburn and Ingrid Bergman, died this week in the age of 95.

Gattinoni made her name as a jet-set fashion designer during Rome's cinema boom in the 1950s and 1960s. In those years, she also excelled as a film costume designer, creating, among other things, Audrey Hepburn's attire in the 1956 movie "War and Peace."

In an interview published this year in the Italian fashion magazine Bookmoda, Gattinoni was asked what defined elegance for her. "Rules exist: No extravagance and no nudity. I've struggle my whole life to teach women that transparent clothes are useless - they tantalize but don't seduce," she said. "What mystery is left for these poor men to unveil?"

November 28, 2002