Arnold quits CFDA

Executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Peter Arnold, tendered his resignation last Friday, prompting a hunt for his replacement.

Arnold, who replaced Fern Mallis at the CFDA in 2001, is leaving the organisation to become president of John Varvatos Enterprises Inc when his contract expires on 1 August. With a background in law, he was a surprise choice for the position at the CFDA, and this move is just as unexpected.

"It was never part of my long-term strategy that I would use the job as some platform from which I would go to a design house," he told WWD. "In my time at the CFDA, opportunities have come my way that I have considered…The opportunity to join John was one that I couldn't say no to."

In his capacity as executive director of the CFDA, Arnold was responsible for looking after the organisation's members and establishing relationships with young designers. He launched the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award together with Anna Wintour and was responsible for expanding the CFDA's Fashion Targets Breast Cancer project.

President of the CFDA, Stan Herman - who will step down in October next year - said he intends to call an executive board meeting this week. A full board meeting will follow on 12 July. "I am definitely going to spend the next few months to make sure there is a continuum in the organisation," he said. "There will be a smooth transaction."

At John Varvatos Enterprises Inc, Arnold will report directly to chairman and ceo Varvatos. Until Arnold's appointment, he also held the title of president. "I have seen him in action, and I have always had respect for him. I know he is a smart guy," said Varvatos.

Meanwhile, it is thought that Diane Von Furstenberg and Joseph Abboud are being considered for president of the CFDA once Herman leaves.

W Holdings buys Amanda Wakeley

Private equity firm W Holdings has purchased British fashion label Amanda Wakeley from the International Clothing Design Ltd, reports just-style.com.

Dr J El Imad, president of W Investments, the UK consultancy arm of W Holdings said: "We are delighted with this acquisition. Amanda Wakely has huge untapped potential, great appeal and a loyal following. We aim to harness these assets to accelerate the growth of this iconic brand both in the UK and overseas."

As chief executive, Amanda Wakeley will hold 20 per cent of the equity. Amanda Wakeley Limited (UK) will be headquartered at Park Lane, Mayfair in London.

2 June 2005

Marc Jacobs to launch range of fine watches

Designer Marc Jacobs is to launch his own fine watch line in a deal with Fossil, the watch manufacturers. The vintage-inspired collection features small oval faces, black grosgrain ribbon straps and diamond detailing. Jacobs said Venetia Scott, with whom he always collaborates on the main women's wear collection and accessories, and he "liked the idea of a very small watch, something that didn't look heavy or big or sporty."

"I've seen girls with vintage Cartier watches that I love," he added. "We all agreed we didn't want something modern looking. We wanted it to have a kind of old feel to it. All the girls we know wear those kinds of things."

26 April 2005

VivaLaDiva supports British designers

Internet shoe retailer VivaLaDiva will devote a special section on its site dedicated to British footwear designers.Labels range from established desigers such as Emma Hope and Lulu Guinness, will set next to the new generation of Cordwainers graduates, like Olivia Morris, Rupert Sanderson, Adele Clarke and Georgina Goodman.

A Swarovski crystal-embellished sandal by former Jimmy Choo designer Beatrix Ong sells at £139, while aJane Brown kid leather d'Orsay with buckle trim is £275.Adding an international flavour is the Spanish footwear label Maloles, whose pumps are worn by Ocean's Twelve stars Catherine Zeta-Jones and Julia Roberts. VivaLaDiva also features many of the hottest brand names on the high street, including Camper, Ted Baker, Red or Dead, Schuh and Clarks.

The website was launched in response to a survey of 2,500 women nationwide which revealed that a quarter of British women between the ages of 25 and 55 have bought shoes online, while 43 per cent of those questioned found the internet more convenient than the high street when shopping for shoes.

Wendy Derbyshire, head of VivaLaDiva.com, said: "We're delighted to showcase this Brit Pack of top British footwear talent for the first time in one place and we're proud to make designs from budding international talent like Maloles more accessible to shoe lovers wherever they live in the UK."

11 April 2005

Scots go designer-crazy in Milan

15,000 Scots were in Milan for a sporting event, spending £700,000 on designer gear in the fashion capital.Louis Vuitton, Prada and Armani reported sales to Scots hit 1million euros - around £700,000. An assistant at the upmarket Louis Vuitton outlet next to the city's main square said: 'We always get lots of tourists but we have had many Scots in today.The Prada outlet also reported booming sales. An assistant said: 'One man bought his wife a purse and a handbag. He said he was doing his penance.'

29 March 2005

Commercial couture

Since Alber Elbaz took over as head designer for Lanvin three years ago, the French couture house's sales have quadrupled. Elbaz has single-handedly managed to transform the ever-exclusive haute couture into a commercial undertaking.

This season at the Paris shows was yet another testament to Elbaz's commercial prowess. As Godfrey Deeny of Fashion Wire Daily remarked: "In a Paris season dominated by a return to sophisticated chic, the collection Lanvin presented on Sunday took a surprising tack - the change of direction emphasized commerciality more than creativity."

His current collection sees Elbaz focusing on "the stylish shopper", with snug jackets flared at the waist, taffeta trenches and tulle cocktail dresses. These clothes are made for refined women. Farewell to the days of tattered hems and lived-in looking fabrics. "These all passed the first date test: what man wouldn't want to escort a young lady out to a gallery opening and dinner in these clothes?" writes Deeny.

An old-fashioned notion, maybe, but "passing the first date test" is a must for the modern woman. Today's sophisticated shopper understands that ueber-trendy clothes must be left to daring, midrif-baring teens. Real clothes should be wearable, comfortable and effortlessly stylish. This is fashion that even a heterosexual male understands and can appreciate. After all, how many times have we seen our beloveds scrunch up their noses at our new Uggs or hippy-chic tattered skirts?

Although Elbaz's collection "never quite hit the heights of (his) more avant-garde shows last year", commercial is the way to go for a fashion house that feels the cold wind of Taiwanese investors flapping about as rumours of a sale abound. Elbaz's commercial new collection will certainly add value to the label.

www.lanvin.com
9 March 2005

John Galliano Starts Season Strong

If Milan set the trend for less-is-best this season, the Parisian catwalks will take the no nonsense approach to chic one step further. John Galliano, the master of flamboyance and re-invention, left behind the flash of cartoon glamour and showed a collection that was beautifully executed and echoed his haute couture show.

2 March 2005

Treacy royal milliner

Milliner extraordinaire Philip Treacy is to design the hat for Camilla Parker Bowles to wear at her wedding to. The Irish designer has already dressed the worlds' most famous heads and is "delighted and honoured" to be designing for the royal wedding. He grew up across the road from a church in the village of Ahascragh in western Ireland. "As a small child, I loved to watch the weddings there. They were the equivalent of a fashion show to me."

Last week it was also announced that the west London-based design duo Anna Valentine and Antonia Robinson will be designing the royal wedding dress. In a brief statement they said: "We are thrilled to be asked." The duo declined to give any details about the design.

21 February 2005

Hardie Amies to produce men's collection

Hardie Amies, the UK couture house, is to design a menswear range to hit stores in Autumn 2005 in partnership with Stuncroft Brands. The deal is reportedly worth GBP750,000 annually for the first 6 seasons. Sales will be handles by former Ozwalk Boateng head of sales Doublas Hood.

The collection, which will focus on suits, trousers, coats, shirts and ties, is scheduled to be available to buyers from the middle of January. Retail prices for suits are estimated to be between GBP3954 and GBP695, and prices for shirts are starting at GBP55. The collection has been designed by HArdy Amies head of design Ian Garlant.

23 December 2004

Designer tree

Fashion darling Matthew Williamson is responsible for the spectacular tree standing in the entrance of London's Victoria & Albert Museum. The six-metre high tree has been decorated with over 1,000 pink ribbons and chiffon roses, each sprinkled with bright blue glitter. Among the flowers are Williamson's signature butterflies, gold birds and dragonflies.

Williamson said that the V&A had always been a great inspiration to him and was delighted to be able to decorate the tree this year. He wanted it to be decadent, exotic and unique, while holding true to tradition, not unlike the museum itself. The tree will be on display until 6 January.

www.vam.ac.uk
8 December 2004

Twin Talent

What's better than one talented designer? Two identical ones, of course. Twin sisters Kathryn and Lindy Jones set up the label Palmer Jones four years ago. This year it was short-listed for the Fashion Group International Rising Star Award and also won the highly regarded Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award.

Initially the brand could only be found in up-market US department stores like Bloomingdales and Sakes Fifth Avenue. However, the highly respected founder of Brown's in London, Mrs. Joan Burstein, has now made the one off jackets, that the duo designed, available in the Brown's boutique on South Molton Street. The jackets are the focus of their collections. As Kathryn explained, they want to treat the jackets like an accessory, something that can be worn with anything but also have a great personal value, like heirlooms. Each look that the girls design is given a quirky name like Mayfair Heiress, Ice Queen and Great Aunt, as a way of identifying the look.

The twins were brought up in Newbury, Berkshire before studying fashion at Kingston. Following their studies they both moved to New York 17 years ago, where they worked for the likes of Ralph Lauren and Andrea Jovine. Subsequently they set up their own label. Along with their own line they also established a secondary Pink Label line of cashmere sweaters.

The pair admit that being part of a twin does help the designing process immensely. "We really empathise with each other's references," said Kathryn. The twins have a rather surprising muse: Cinderella. The fairytale was their favourite bedtime story when they were growing up. While they are designing Kathryn and Lindy revealed that they simply imagine what Cinderella did next. "She's one step ahead of the game and always very glamorous."

www.palmer-jones.com
1 December 2004

Paul Smith joins internet hype

British designer Paul Smith has begun selling online. Clothing, accessories, and even customised Roberts radios are now available at the click of a button. Over 200 products are available for purchase within the EU, and the company has plans to expand to cover the US early next year.

Design houses like Gucci have paved the way for the likes of Paul Smith to enter the e-retail market with his own site. His designs were previously sold on net-a-porter.com, along with brands like Chloe, Miu Miu and Matthew Williamson.

www.paulsmith.co.uk
1 November 2004

Brits Best At Accessories

The Brits have a knack for designing "it" accessories. In the last few months, fashionable women in any chic environment wouldn't be seen without a Luella or Mulberry bag by their side.

Now Clements Ribeiro (after years of colloboration with Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin) have stepped into the competitive accessories category with shoes and a re-launched bag line. The grab-and-go, ethnic spirited range (manufactured by Baltali - the same facility that does Luella and Mulberry) seems a shoo-in to be the next must-haves.

Employing a commercial formula for success, the line doesn't stray too far from current sensibilities: sweet leather satchels with utility brass hardware say a bit of Marc Jacobs or Mulberry. Studded and grommet pumps and Mediterranean blue-green leathers are also not new, but the duo works their unique feminine flair for prints and applying ethnic bits.

And, their Bollywood-inspired turquoise gladiator sandals with metallic topstitching and pearl strewn platforms were a nice touch. The early word is that retailers including Neiman Marcus and Barneys have already written the line for spring.

22 October 2004

Fashion designers get political

Last week Hillary Clinton enlisted the help of her favourite designers to raise money for John Kerry's presidential campaign.

The former first lady called on the likes of Kenneth Cole and Zac Posen to provide funds for the democratic presidential candidate. Kenneth Cole, whose advertisements always contain strong political messages, urged people to vote and provided statistics for the poor show of voters in the 2000 elections. Meanwhile Posen paid $25,000 to meet with Clinton in private. He told reporters how important it was for young people to vote.

Fashion is joining the ranks of Hollywood in the effort to support presidential elections. During both his campaign and presidency, Bill Clinton was backed by Hollywood-royalty Barbra Streisand.

18 October 2004

Posh fashion designer

Victoria Beckham is to design a new denim collection for the US label, Rock & Republic. The brand already attracts celebrity clients such as Cameron Diaz and Usher. Although having a big name like Posh tied to it appears to be a great marketing move, Rock & Republic stresses that the star's insight and fashion sense will be of great use in the creative process. The company points out that there have been numerous efforts to pair the label with a celebrity name, but this is the first time that it has made sense, creatively speaking.

Since her singing career has hit a prolonged rough patch, Posh has been branching out into fashion. Her first venture was a modelling contract with rap mogul Damon Dash's clothing brand Rocawear. However, this ended with Posh being replaced by übermodel Kate Moss. The replacement was rumoured to be caused by her recent pregnancy. But thanks to a fortuitous meeting with Rock & Republic designer Michael Ball in Los Angeles earlier this year, Posh has managed to land on her well-heeled feet again.

The designer-clad star will lend her name to a limited edition of jeans, skirts and knits and will promote the new collection during Los Angeles fashion week, where the company is based. Her promotional visits will include Tokyo and London, as well as the US. Rock & Republic is currently sold in department stores like Bloomingdales in New York, and Selfridges in London.

www.rockandrepublic.com
4 October 2004

Belgian Beauty

Belgium has produced some of the best-known contemporary designers, but some, like dirk Schonberger, have missed on the attention bestowed on Dries van Noten, Veronique Branquinho and Ann Demeulemeester.

Schonberger, while avoiding the limelight, has presented collection in Paris that no less cerebral or accomplished than his contemporaries. This fall's collection, based on "Surfer in the City," marries fine wools with the frame-enveloping cuts of wet suits. His women's collection borrows from the same theme, while adding his hallmark trench coats and dresses made with Hawaiian-print silks, dip-dyed in a muted grey.

Schonberger says: "I think my clothes are not so easily accessible as they might look sometimes. You have to discover them for yourself, wear them."

1 September 2004

The Return Of Rifat Ozbek

Rifat Ozbek, one of the 90s designer icons, is back on the fashion scene after a two and a half year hiatus. This time with a new ready-to-wear collection for Italian label Pollini.

Ozbek, who is a native of Istanbul, Turkey, is the newly appointed creative director of Pollini, the renowned Italian footwear company. His first collection for the group draws on his love of travelling and is inspired by all things Tibetan. Cashmere coats feature with oversized paillettes, lotus flower-print chiffon dresses and jackets that are embroidered or detailed with tiger-print insets.

Ozbek, who aims to design clothes that are wearable for season's to come, says "it's about using colour and techniques such as embroidery, but using them in a really contemporary way. I love the simple shapes of the fifties and early Sixties: to me, they feel incredibly modern."

The collection will be available from Browns, Harrods and House of Fraser.

16 July 2004

Flower Power For Paul Smith

Best-loved British designer Paul Smith on Sunday sent out a collection fit for a rebellious 1970s school boy, with models in brightly coloured floral shirts, tight-fitting trousers, loose ties and scarves -- parading down a catwalk stacked with books.

For those who don't love flowers, Smith included plenty of stripes -- albeit jumbled up and in sorbet shades. Smith served up a bit of ethnic flair with psychedelic multi-coloured jackets and giant colorful satchels edged in mirror work.

7 July 2004

Vivienne Westwood Reigns

Vivienne Westwood continues to wow the public with her high octane restrospective collection at the V&A. Her work, as a British icon, punk icon and forward-thinking designer, continues to tweak the historical in her tongue-and-cheek approach to traditional British clothes and design.

Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the V&A runs until July 11th. www.vam.ac.uk
26 May 2004

Pierre Cardin Up For Sale

Pierre Cardin has put his fashion emporium on the market, hoping to close a deal by the end of June. Cardin has hired the Italian group Multipartner to run the sale with possible interested parties including Goldman Sachs, Merrill Lynch and private equity group Cerberus.

The 81-year-old designer is expected to host one of his annual superlative soirees at his futuristic hillside mansion to celebrate the Cannes Film Festival later this month. The company, which has annual turnover of approximately GBP24 million, is likely to sell for somewhere in the region of GBP270 million.

While the sale is likely to include the fashion house's headquarters in Paris, Milan, Barcelona and Beijing, Cardin will not be giving up his own real estate. And the designer, who has never been shy to proclaim his status as a "fashion leader", is likely to maintain strong ties with the company, despite the sale. "I would like to die with my fashion," he said two years ago. "Yves Saint Laurent stopped. He is free. He is not my cup of tea. He liked to stop, he stopped. I like work, I work."

7 May 2004

It's A DVF Moment!

Diane Von Furstenberg, dotingly referred to by fashionistas worldwide as DvF, is living her moment. Or is it re-living her moment? After selling millions of her now eponymous wrap dresses, the designer has become an icon of 70's fashion and is still going strong today.

Starting out in the early 70s, Von Furstenberg launched her "Feel Like a Woman Wear a Dress" campaign and entered the American Fashion scene with her knit dresses. Even now, her famous Warhol, twig and splatter prints from the seventies have become collectors items for vintage fashion fetishists to re-create Von Furstenberg's seventies chic.

After a brief exit from the fashion industry, a move to Paris and a few books later, Von Furstenberg returns to her roots in 1997 and creates "An Image for a New Generation." Inspired by a young generation of women who are buying the original wrap dresses in vintage shops, Diane enlists the help of her daughter-in-law, Alexandra and re-launches her dress.

A new book recently launched called "The Wrap" commemorates the designer for over 30 years of inspiration and documents her dress (or better stated that dress) which is being reissued in her classic and vintage prints exclusively sold at her shops.

The recent opening of her London, Notting Hill store, proves the eternally youthful and glamorous designer still appeals to a younger audience.

www.dfv.com
13 April 2004

Ode To Mathew

It may have appeared to be quiet on the Mathew Williamson front these past few weeks, but that is all set to change with his flagship store due to open on Bruton Street in London. Madonna, Kate, Sarah Jessica, Helena, Gwyneth, and a loyal following of the fashion it-girls adore the designer and his clothes - which makes it one of the most hotly anticipated events in a city not short on store openings.

The look of the store's interior won't surprise his admirers. Williamson's love of pink unfolds in what he calls a "virtual nature" scene which means pink stars, moulded Perspex bubbles, fluorescent glossy rails, stone floors, and Georgian panelling. The hyper colouring continues in a trippy subtropical garden contained in a lighted glass tank which also conceals the dressing rooms wrapped in emerald green, hand painted silk wallpaper.

And playing against a spring collection of cool white fitted shirts, capri pants with the usual fuchsia and turquoise accents and feather printed chiffon, the environment is an ode to girly decadence. And in Williamson's cool bohemian spirit, signature outfits will dangle from torsos and chandeliers. London's hot pink event this spring.

17 March 2004

LFW Designers Boosted By Overseas Trade

London Fashion Week designers have substantially increased their overseas business in the last two years. In an exclusive survey conducted by Drapers, designers showing on the catwalks at LFW showed a marked increase in international stockists.

The 39 designers who showed in February 2002 had a cumulative total of 1,912 international stockists.

The same number showing this February have 3,175 international accounts between them. By contrast, the cumulative total of UK stockists has dipped from 969 to 773 accounts. Some names have disappeared from the schedule since 2002 as designers have either gone out of business or taken on new roles at the bigger fashion houses.

A good example of the growth is Tata-Naka which received New Generation sponsorship in February 2002 and has built its international business from nine to 50 stockists in two years. Its UK stockists have doubled to eight.

The increase in overseas business could be due to last year's GBP200,000 grant by the DTI to LFW's organizers - and Trade Partners UK - to attract international visitors to the event.

16 February 2004

Glamour in Bankside

Yemi Osunkoya, the award winning designer behind the Kosibah Creations label recently brought a touch of glamour to Bankside. London SE1.

Launching his spacious, contemporary Atelier, in studios near Tate Modern gallery, the Globe Theatre and Zandra Rhodes’ Fashion Museum, Yemi hosted a Champagne Reception and glittering Fashion Show featuring his 2004 Bridal and Eveningwear Collection.

The Bridal Collection features beautifully cut gowns in Ivory Zibeline, Duchesse satin, Re-embroidered Lace and Organza, with details in Ruby Red Diamante and Hand crafted Jewellery incorporated into the gowns. The theme was Audrey Hepburn meets the Fifties and carried the Kosibah signature corsetry throughout to produce figure enhancing gowns.

Kosibah Creations Couture gowns are made to order, by appointment, from the new studios. Accessories such as head pieces, tiaras, jewellery, shoes etc from selected designers are also available from the studio.

www.kosibah.co.uk
22 January 2004

Young Designers Boosted With Topshop

Young designers received a boost this week as Topshop renewed its New Generation sponsorship agreement with London Fashion Week for another four seasons.

February's event will be Topshop's fifth consecutive season of sponsorship and will see the young fashion retailer provide financial assistance to 13 up-and-coming designers, including catwalk shows and stands at the London Designers Exhibition for Jonathan Saunders, Jens Laugesen and Bora Aksu. Miki Fukai will also receive funding for a catwalk show.

A spokeswoman for Topshop said that there would be opportunities for selected New Generation designers to work on capsule collections for directional area Topshop Boutique. Jen Laugesen and PPQ are among those designers previously invited to work on capsule collections.

12 January 2004

One To Watch

Like any profession, graduating from college and facing the weary world of business is not easy. It takes much more than talent these days to mark out one's path. Young designers upon leaving school are facing a tough task with fashion climates bordering on the Arctic and the luxury goods sector facing a cooldown on a global scale.

Designing a collection that looks fabulous and commercial on paper, becomes more complex when sourcing fabrics, organising production & manufacturing, finding an agent, a press agent and most importantly financial support to afford the aforementioned. Sometimes though, in the bleakest of forecasts, a young talent emerges out of the bitter mist defying the odds against her.

One such talent is Ireland born Joanne Hynes, a recent graduate of the Central St Martins brigade. After presenting her MA collection to press and buyers at the Truman Brewery she went on to be stocked in Fred Segal, L.A., Pineal Eye and Concrete in London and The Design Centre in Dublin. For next season Hynes took inspiration of the French showgirls of the 30's and 40's, creating beautiful feminine dresses with appliquéd leather, feathers and crystals.

Recent favourites such as Roland Mouret prove that there is territory yet to be conquered in fashion-land. Hynes, like Mouret, will be one to watch.

For more information contact the Mr Ed press office: 020 7613 1133

Don-Alvin Adegeest
10 December 2003

Koh Samui Closes Store

Designer independent Koh Samui is to close its Knightsbridge store later this month. In lieu of their menswear launch in their Covent Garden flagship last autumn, they have decided to close the women's only store in Lowndes Street.

Koh Samui stock directional designer labels including Balenciaga, Eley Kishimoto, Seven Jeans and Missoni. A spokeswoman for the company said that the Covent Garden store would continue to house a mix of existing labels as well as introducing more up and coming names.

14 July 2003

Soaring Sales for Paul Smith

Sir Paul Smith, one of the world's top fashion designers, has joined the ranks of elite businessmen earning GBP 1m or more. The award comes as the designer, who has operations as far afield as America, Japan and South Korea, reports soaring sales.

Sales at the company shot up by about 20 per cent to GBP 60.1m in the year to June 30, 2002, compared with GBP 51m the previous year. Pre-tax profits climbed to GBP 9.2m, from GBP 8.6m.

With growth in overseas markets having been particularly strong the past year, Paul Smith has been investing in America, buying a showroom in the SoHo district of New York.

John Morley, managing director, said sales increases were set to continue. "Autumn-winter sales for this year are 20 per cent ahead of the same season's sales for 2002,' he said.

14 May 2002

Vivienne leaves NY city

After four years, iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood last Friday closed her boutique on Greene Street in SoHo, her only store in the United States. The sudden move has shocked and dismayed Westwood clients.

Globally, Westwood's business is booming - she just opened fifteen stores in Japan and Paris and Milan openings are upcoming. But although the SoHo store was doing fairly well, it lagged far behind Westwood's other ventures. "We decided to invest in what works best for us," Westwood's representator, Mark Palmen, told Fashion Buzz. "It just wasn't cost-effective. We only made the decision this month."

The closure is even more of a surprise considering Westwood just scored a major coup - dressing Gwen Stefani for the Grammys, where Stefani's band No Doubt picked up an award. Westwood also dresses the likes of Cameron Diaz and Sarah Jessica Parker, and Palmen says Westwood will continue to have "some kind of a presence" in the States.

www.viviennewestwood.com

March 8, 2003

"Stop war" shirts display at London fashion show

British designer Katharine Hamnett took a sobering anti-war stand among the frills and frippery of London Fashion Week last Tuesday, sending her models down the catwalk in "Stop War, Blair Out" T-shirts. Designers showing in London have so far largely steered clear of statements about U.S. and British preparations for a possible war against Iraq over its alleged possession of weapons of mass destruction.

But Hamnett was determined to speak out. "I'm saying to people: 'Use the little shreds of democracy that you've got left to save yourselves before it's too late,'" she told Reuters. Her protest followed a wearable collection that featured many a black knee-length skirt with romantic details, city-coats and playful tops in pastel colours for her list of high-profile clients who appreciate her "simple clothes".

Although designers regularly talk about taking their influences from the world around them, the London circuit has largely ignored the mood of the rest of the population. The shows began on Saturday as a massive anti-war rally in central London drew almost one million people -- but they might as well have been a world away from the exhibition site nearby.
Also during NY Fashion Week, several models and designers took an anti-war stand. Backstage at Calvin Klein, models wore self-made anti-war shirts.

February 20, 2003

Powerpuff Girls feature clothing line

London-based designer Markus Lupfer has been inspired by three cartoon caracters for his new collection. Lupfers lates designs are all printed with images of Cartoon Network fab-trio: the Powerpuff Girls.

Lupfer is heading the PPR clothing project, a new design initiative to explore cartoon imagery through the medium of fashion. Blossom, Bubbles and Buttercup feature Markus' multi-coloured cashmere jumpers, sweat tops, floaty chiffon skirts and dresses and T-shirts.

The PPR line, which is funded by Cartoon Network, will include a jewellery range designed by Katie Hillier and Sally Vickers.

The capsule collection, will be sold exclusively in Selfridges. The project will also appear in Paris where Dutch designer Tom van Lingen is to produce its capsule collection exclusively for Colette. "Markus' work lends itself beautifully to the style of PPG," explains a spokeswoman. "It was a very serious project for him. The project is a way of letting him explore this medium, while Cartoon Network gain from the publicity his designs will get them."

November 22, 2002

Italians in shock when Friars' tunics get pockets

Elisabetta Bianchetti, a designer whom very few here had heard of a year ago, is making headlines in Italy. Ms. Bianchetti's company is among Italy's leading suppliers of ecclesiastical clothing, and it was her renovation of a voluminous pleated black habit worn by a small community of Franciscan friars in Assisi, barely altered for hundreds of years, that landed her in the headlines.

Since receiving the commission last year to redesign the habit worn by 90 Franciscan friars of the Third Order Regular, Ms. Bianchetti and her design have been praised, debated and excoriated in the Italian press.

What Elisabetta Bianchetti did is quite radical for Italians who are very conservative about the clergy, and to restyle their clothes never, ever happened. The changes made by Ms. Bianchetti were, in fact, duly modest. Streamlining a heavy folded wool robe, she also adapted its color to accord with records of St. Francis from the 13th century. But it was her replacement of two small slits on the garment with a pair of shirt-style pockets that apparently tickled a bemused Italian press.

The rumor is that Rev. Lino Temperini, the monk who commissioned the alteration, ever made the claim that the pockets were to accommodate keys and a cell phone, as was widely reported. He now denies this. There is a lingering sentiment in Italy that modern gadgets distance the us from the poor said the Rev. Michael Cusato, an associate professor of history at the Franciscan Institute at St. Bonaventure University in Olean, N.Y. "It's always been a squeamish issue. The poor don't have cellphones — why should we?"

October 23, 2002