Amazon launches accessories site

On Wednesday, Amazon launched its accessories and footwear site Endless.com. With an assortment of over 250 brands and a free overnight delivery service, the site is taking on companies like Gap and Nordstrom. The range of brands on offer is very democratic, with most shoes retailing for less than $100. Consumers can choose from a range that includes Adidas, Kenneth Cole, Jessica Simpson, Geox, Hush Puppies, Birkenstock, Easy Spirit and Fila. For its second online store, Amazon has chosen a new look and name to suit the product line it sells.

This is not Amazon's first foray into online fashion sales. Last year it acquired Shopbop, a fashionable online store that caters to contemporary, brand-conscious consumers. It has also sold shoes, handbags and accessories from other retailers since 2002. "From our perspective, it's a big market, and the more people become comfortable shopping online, the better it is for all players," Tony Hsieh, chief executive officer of Zappos, a direct competitor of Endless.com told WWD. Online sales have reportedly gained 26 percent over the holiday season to $23.1 billion.

Amazon says it was inspired to create Endless.com due to positive feedback from its existing apparel customers. “They like to shop differently,” says Steven Goldsmith, vice president of soft lines at Amazon and Endless.com.

To deal with issues inherent to the online sale of fashion and accessories, much attention has been given to service and navigation of the site. Customers within the US can expect free delivery and free return shipping, 24-hour-a-day telephone customer service and the possibility to return items for up to year as long as they have not been worn. Furthermore, online shopping has been made easier by improved navigation functions. Customers are able to search by price, style, brand, size and colour, and can do so simultaneously or separately. They can also peruse customer and editors' product reviews and examine shoes from seven different angles.

Amazon choice to launch the site now appears to be well timed. Currently, only about 5 percent of apparel sales take place online, according to the American JupiterResearch. The research company expects online apparel and accessories to grow, although it warned that the business would become increasingly competitive. The site does not yet ship to locations in Europe

www.endless.com
4 January 2007

Bally for sale

Swiss fashion and accessories house Bally is said to be for sale. Its current owner, private equity firm Texas Pacific Group, is believed to be preparing its exit. The Fort Worth-based TPG acquired Bally in 1999 and has since restructured the fashion house. Last year it broke even for the first time. According to WWD, sources have said that now would therefore be a good time for TPG to exit. In recent years the house has enjoyed a marked improvement in performance. Global sales rose between 15 and 20 percent last year to €360 million and the company expects similar results for the current year. Bally has denied knowledge of a potential sale.

Sources have told WWD that Kenneth Cole is in the running to take over Bally. Like the Swiss fashion house, US-based Cole specializes in shoes and accessories and has a small offering of fashion. “It is company policy not to respond to rumours,” said a Kenneth Cole spokeswoman.

www.bally.com
17 November 2006

Neiman acquires remainder Kate Spade

Neiman Marcus has agreed to acquire the remaining 44 percent of Kate Spade that it does not yet own. It will pay about $59 million (£31 million) for the remaining shares of the accessories specialist, whose value is estimated at $134 million. The department store group had acquired 56 percent of the company in 1999 for $33.6 million. In 2005, owners Kate and Andy Spade and their partners, Pamela Bell and Elyce Arons, chose a put option, which specifies a sell price at a particular date. “We chose to put our stock to Neiman Marcus Group and are pleased with the valuation place on our 44 percent of the company,” chief executive Andy Spade told WWD. He said the focus would now be on running the business and the future of the brand.

Neiman Marcus Group is auctioning off Kate Spade and, according to WWD, Liz Claiborne is said to be the most likely candidate to acquire the business. Meanwhile, both Kate and Andy Spade are under contract with Neiman Marcus, although whether they intend to stay with the company is unclear. If they stay and the company is sold, they will have to renegotiate their contracts with the new owners.

www.katespade.com
6 November 2006

Claudia's new accessories

Claudia Schiffer is the latest of the supermodel clan to make an appearance in a fall campaign. The German model will be featured in the in-store ads and window displays for Accessorize, the London-based accessories chain, which is part of the Monsoon apparel group.

"Claudia was a natural choice to be the face of Accessorize," said Peter Simon, founder of Accessorize. "She captures the essence of the Accessorize brand — vibrant, fun and energetic." The Jonathan Bookallil-shot campaign casts Schiffer in Studio 54 mode, sporting sequined tube tops, Lurex leggings and, in one shot, sporting nothing but gold paint — and accessories. The chain also has created a gold-sequined purse to mark Schiffer's campaign, called the Claudia.

Schiffer follows in the footsteps of Kelly Osbourne and Naomi Campbell who were in campaigns the last two seasons.

www.accessorise.com
7 September 2006

Swatch profits surge

Luxury watch company Swatch Group has reported a leap in first half net profits of 23.6 percent to 330 million Swiss francs (£136.1 million). The Biel , Switzerland-based watch group cited strong demand in all price categories, “particularly in the top price segment”, and geographic regions and said the outlook is “very optimistic”. The company attributed its gains for finished watches to higher marketing spend – on advertising, events and improved visibility. Gross sales for the period ended 30 June rose 13.1 percent to 2.36 billion Swiss francs, while the operating profit rose 37.2 percent to 402 million Swiss francs. The operating margin rose to 18 percent, up from 14.8 percent. Watch brand Breguet boasted the highest growth rates, the company said. It was “followed closely by the other luxury brands”, including, Blancpain, Longines, Omega and Rado. The Swatch brand's performance was very strong in the basic range and recently celebrated the sale of its 333 millionth watch. In terms of region, Asia is still a strong “contributor to the Group's success”, but Europe and the US are showing continuous growth.

www.swatchgroup.com
28 August 2006

Furla expands with watch collection

Furla is expanding its product range with a new watch collection. The Italian leather goods company has signed a three-year licensing contract with Japanese watchmaker Citizen to produce a complete collection. Originally, Furla had a limited line of watches produced locally in Italy, but this new deal is expected to generate sales of €12 million (£8.3 million) by 2008. The license is new for Citizen, whom Furla calls “the ideal partner” for the launch of a line of fashionable watches, “both in terms of style and affordable luxury”. Prices for the line, which will be available from this fall, will vary between $100 and $265.
Furla is concentrating on expanding its business in Japan, which doubled between 2003 and 2005 and nu represents 20 percent of total sales. Last year Furla generated sales of  €113 million. For this year, the company expects sales of €162.9 million. The company just opened its biggest store ever in the Ginza district in Tokyo. The brand currently has 190 directly owned stores and 1,000 points of sales worldwide. Furla also just launched a limited collection of handbags this spring called Giovanna Furlanetto per Furla. The bags cost €300.

www.furla.com
6 July 2006

Look forward to Pure Accessories

London fashion trade show Pure is looming again and this time it has expanded its range of accessories brands. Pure is offering an entire floor consisting of s/s 07 collections and a smaller a/s 06 range for short order.
New brands to be included this August are Coccinelle from Italy with its range of handbags and leather goods; Made from Britain, which is launching a range of jewellery; Storm with a range of watches; bags and hats from designer Helen Kaminski, a bag collection from Steven Harkin; Peter Meiren with a collection of eye catching jewellery, using metal, PVC, polyester, bronze and Swarovski crystals; US newcomer Loop with a collection of colourful handbags.
Other newcomers to the trade show include Emmerson, Ellebury, Onna Ehrlich, Italica of Italy, Babylon Sisters, Map, My mothball, Noodoll, Flying Hearts, Call Me La Darling, Top Design, Louise Hempleman, Kudiba, Gecko, Modern Tribal and Neesh.
Brands like Gabriela Castro Ladies Footwear, Rocket Dog, French Sole, Fly London and Salvador Sapena will enrich the current offer of women’s footwear.
Pure will take place on 6, 7 an 8 August at Olympia.

www.purewomenswear.co.uk
15 June 2006

Sumo enters UK market

US lifestyle brand Sumo is introducing its line of fashionable bags and durable cases to the UK. The label’s spring/summer 2006 collection, which consists of iPod cases, laptop carrier cases and leather and fabric accessories in a variety of colours, will launch at Pulse London 2006 on 21-24 May.
“The Sumo Spring ’06 collection was created to cross the line between fashion and the day to day use for work,” said design director Geoff Sacco. “Too often, work related bags, cases and accessories are drab, with little though or design to the product. Sumo is the alternative; our new line offers clever design in both leather and fabric, attention to detail, and unique style for both men and women on the up and up.”
Sumo is available in Apple Stores globally, at vendors offering a range of products and now also from its online store.

www.sumolifestyle.co.uk
5 May 2006

Buckle up baby!

Do you prefer yours with clasps, nuts, bolts, or buckles? We’re not talking car parts here, rather the hot new trend for accessories. Buckles are big this season in variety of ways. At Fendi, where giant buckles appeared on almost every look, accessories designer Silvia Venturini Fendi said she wanted her signature B bags and outsized buckle belts to be ‘simple yet easily recognisable, without a massive use of logos.’

Elsewhere, inspired by utilitarian workwear, designers attached statement buckles to heels (Givenchy), dresses (Gucci), and belts.

For the best buckles on bags, head to Doors by Jas M.B., where the London-based designed has created some of the most delectable bags of the season.

Richemont sales rise

Luxury goods group Richemont has reported sales of €4.3 billion for the fiscal year ended 31 March. This signifies an increase of 17 percent for the Switzerland-based company, which saw growth across the board.

Fashion brand Chloé performed particularly well last year, with sales more than doubling. However, Chloé represents a small part of Richemont. The group's most important business is its jewellery division – which included brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels – with combined sales of €2.2 billion. The division realized growth of 15 percent for the year.

The group's watch business, with brands like Vacheron, IWC and Panerai, saw sales increase 22 percent. The division achieved annual sales of €1 billion.

North and South America were the group's best performing regions with a growth of 26 percent. However, Europe, Japan and Asia achieved double-digit growth. Watch brands IWC and Panerai were primarily responsible for Richemont's gains.

www.richemont.com
25 April 2006

Oakley Q1 profits slump

US sunglass maker and retailer Oakley has reported an 80 percent drop in first quarter profits as operating expenses rose and margins fell. The strong sale of sunglasses did not compensate for the challenges the California-based retailer.

The company's clothing, footwear and accessories division realized net sales of $36.8 million (£20.5 million), down 8.8 percent from the same period the year before.

Sales in the first quarter rose 7 percent to $151.7 million, while net income dropped to $1.9 million due to restructuring costs.

Operating expenses in the quarter amounted to $77.8 million, or 51.3 percent of net sale. The operating expenses rose due to the addition of Oliver Peoples and the opening of new retail locations, as well as stock option expenses and a marketing push.

“Our first quarter results reflect the initial benefits of Oakley's renewed emphasis on optics,” said chief executive Scott Olivet. “We executed well against an earlier sunglass release schedule and successfully launched our first women's eyewear collection. The women's launch was one of the most coordinated and powerful ever, combining excellent design and manufacturing execution with early, integrated sales and marketing effort around the world.”

Olivet added that Oakley had taken an “important step forward in our multi-branding strategy with the acquisition of Oliver Peoples”. In doing so, the company will be able to reach new customers and distribution channels.

“Moving forward, we intend to implement the growth strategies articulated in February which include realigning our apparel platform, restructuring the footwear business, building our retail and international platforms and increasing the investment in overall brand development,” he continued. “We believe that focusing on these strategies will position the company for renewed annual earnings growth in 2007.”

Oakley said that it continues to expect net sales growth of at least 10 percent.

www.oakley.com
24 April 2006

Accessories to die for

Some seasons can make a girl extremely greedy. Last winter was a big personal disappointment. The hot skinny jeans worn by Kate Moss made me want to weep with desperation and resentment, but thankfully spring is a whole new ball game and I'm ready to play. Fashion is finally looking favourably on the real female figure, curves and all, and is not conspiring to make us look like trussed up chickens. Besides, the skinny jean is almost a thing of the past, making way for the roomier fit of men's style denim.

But back to this season, which is feminine, with plenty of white, crochet, embroidery and appliqués, and fresh stripes on the menu. Nudes are also making a big comeback.

All these neutral hues and feminine silhouettes form the perfect backdrop for this spring's accessories. And there is so much to choose from.

With the arrival of longer days and warmer temperatures, investing in a white bag is your best bet. It should preferably be made from soft, supple leather as is the case with Chloé's Paddington (yes, it's still the rage) or a quilted Marc Jacobs number. However, if even your budget groans at the thought try Zara from some great totes and city shoppers. And don't forget to check out Ebay.

This season the shoe selection provides enormous flexibility. From stacked heels to wedges, from open-toed flats to ballet shoes and exotic sandals; the choice is limitless. Try a gold sandal with a pretty white cotton dress or wear them with you favourite pair of old jeans. Pair the look with several gold chains worn around the neck or wrist. Yes, that's right. Gold chains are no longer the domain of rappers and, travelling further back in time, Tony Manero in Saturday Night Fever. You can make a real fashion statement by wearing a few chunky chains at a time; they're enough to dress up a white T-shirt and jeans.

Nautical has also reared its sunny head and navy or red stripes abound, as do gold buttons featuring anchors and braided details on shoes and bags. Play with these finishings, but don't go overboard!

So abandon all those gypsy skirts, if you still have them hiding in your closet and go for a romantic, feminine look in a pretty dress and stacked heels or for a chic rock-chick vibe. The choice is yours.

Green plans accessories chain

Retail billionaire Philip Green plans to add a fashion accessories chain to the Arcadia stable of enterprises.

Green has joined forces with DCK Concessions, his jewellery and fashion accessories supplier, to launch Muse, his new women's fashion accessories chain.

The first Muse has already been opened in Gateshead's MetroCentre, Europe's largest shopping mall, and Green plans to open another 50 stores over the next two years. He opened the first store as a trial for the concept, because he saw a gap in that market. He told the FT that he is investing “a few million pounds” in the venture.

“We think there is potential based on the sales we have been enjoying (in Arcadia) – we think we have good design and direction,” said Green. “We will roll it out gently and see how it works. Initially it is encouraging but, like everything, you have to suck it and see.”

Muse will enter the market as slightly more up market than the Claire's Accessories chain, but edgier than the Accessorize chain, which was set up by Monsoon founder Peter Simon.

Meanwhile, DCK – which was co-founded by current executive chairman Alan Witzenfeld – already supplies jewellery and women's accessories to the other Arcadia brands, including TopShop, Dorothy Perkins, Miss Selfridge and department store chain BHS.

www.arcadia.co.uk
20 February 2006

Stephen Jones celebrates 25 years of millinery

Stephen Jones is celebrating 25 years in millinery. An exhibition of the surreal and the sublime in London's Dover Street Market also marks another anniversary says the International Herald Tribute: 20 years since Jones approached his fashion hero, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and subsequently started a collaboration with the Japanese designer.

The culmination of their working relationship is an exhibition of hats "displaced and displayed" through Kawakubo's six-floor London store (17-18 Dover Street from Dec. 2 to Jan. 7). With perfect serendipity, Jones was honored at the British Fashion Awards earlier this month as "accessories designer of the year;" while Adrian Joffe, Kawakubo's husband and business partner, picked up the "best new store" award for Dover Street Market.

Jones worked first with Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood, then with Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler, as well as Kawakubo. But he has done his most dramatic work with John Galliano, creating astounding and lyrical confections from a hat with lollipop sticks to Neffertiti Egyptian headdresses. In close-up, it is possible to understand the extraordinary detail and technical skills that went into these moments of creative emotion.

1 December 2005

First class

The accessories trade show Premiere Classe opened simultaneously with the fashion trade fair Pret a Porter Paris last Friday at the Porte de Versaille in Paris . Premiere Classe is a partner of Who's Next, the fashion trade show that manifests itself as a predictor of trends and a platform for new ideas.

With 295 accessories labels in Premiere Classe, 145 clothing brands in Who's Next Fame and 85 young designers in Who's Next Fresh, this show was a veritable cornucopia of hip labels. Popular fashion labels like the American James Perse and British accessories queen Lulu Guiness shared the space with up-and-comers in Europe like the American/Italian shoe label Due Farina.

The halls of the show were buzzing with positive energy, the quality of the particpating brands was high and innovative. Labels new to the trade show, like the British jewellery label Doy, provided a fresh outlook. “I am exited about this show and am curious to see what will come of it,” said Doy founder and designer, Doy Sison-Jones, who chose to show her new Flex collection at the show; the pieces are made of rubber in various colours and adorned with pearls. “It's a new concept and a different approach to making jewellery. It's flexible and surprising. I hope that people will be able to appreciate it,” said Doy. We certainly do. And we will most definitely be clearing a space in our diaries for the next edition of Premiere Classe and Who's Next.

www.whosnext.com
www.premiere-classe.com
5 August 2005