 Last March’s edition of Milan fashion week included the controversy on the reduced number of events and the revenge of the bloggers. This, instead, will be remembered as the one of the seven day calendar of events, of the parades in the city
centre and at the Piazza Duomo, of the bicycles available to journalists, unfortunately used all too parsimoniously, and of the commitment to relaunching Milan as the fashion capital. The direction taken, at least according to the Fashion economics trends of Camera della moda, is the right one: in the second quarter the fashion industry registered +14.6% turnover compared to a year ago. For 2010 Cnmi expects +6.5%.
 In short we will still have to wait a while but certainly this time the commitment has been there, it is undeniable. First of all, with the parades having been moved a short walk away from the Piazza Duomo which allowed the sensational delays of the fashion parades to be reduced (78 for 71 brands and 77 presentations). Another important feat was the organisation of events in historical locations like the short film “An Italian dream”, presented by Tod's at La Scala. And who can forget the exhibition with the creations by the ten young designers selected by Vogue, in the illustrious presence of the Director of the US magazine, Anna Wintour, and her Italian counterpart Franca Sozzani. The son of the French Prime Minister, Pierre Sarkozy, spotted by Emporio Armani and talented DJ at the party of the German designer Philipp Plein, on his debut with the women’s collection, also gave prominence to the Milan fashion week. In the parterre, also a bad girl like the American actress Mischa Barton. There were also many new openings like that of the Dolce & Gabbana multibrand in Via della Spiga.
But when it comes to reinvigorating the lot of a women’s fashion which ended 2009 down by 12,3% and a turnover of a little more than 11,4 billion Euros (Italy fashion industry data) the designers’ collections will have to come into play. For example that of the bright colours for blouses and evening skirts by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi for Ferré. The transfer of the fashion house to Prodos Capital Management, a New York private equity fund, will be announced in a week or so. Over the coming weeks a decision will also be taken for the transfer of Ittierre, the company behind Just Cavalli, C’n’c, and Scervino. The dresses of the latter fashion house are a triumph of plissé.
Bright tones for the Miuccia Prada collection. But no less impact in Frida Giannini’s collection for Gucci: all clear given to fluo colours and tribal interlacing. Yet more colour for the Spanish brand Custo Barcelona, whose designer, Custo Dalmau, made his Milan debut with light dresses alternating with feathery tops. The Emporio Armani collection is glamour, fancy and, especially, fourreau, or else equipped with stretch tulle underskirts to be worn under dresses. British designer Mark Fast leaves little to the imagination, with the explicit collection of short dresses for Pinko.
Softer, this time, are the comments of the international press like that of Imogen Fox, of The Guardian, although she notes a certain indecision on the lengths of dresses (many are short or very long). For Suzy Menkes, instead, the Milan catwalks have "no operatic shout from the heart", according to the International Herald Tribune.
The controversy this time exploded around Elena Mirò, excluded from the official calendar because its label is for sizes 46 and above, not very representative of prêt-à-porter. Nonetheless the label was paraded on the first day of fashion week. Over 65 new names, finally, for the Pitti showrooms dedicated to the women’s collections. A next door neighbour, contending for buyers and staff, was White, which accommodated 350 exhibitors (34% of which were foreign).
From our correspondent in Milan
Photo 1: Prada, s/s 2011
Photo 2: Anna Wintour, Giorgio Armani and Franca Sozzani
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