 London Fashion Week got off to a stellar start on Friday with anticipated catwalks from Paul Costelloe, the Sustainable fashion show and PPQ closing the day. For those unable to attend the extremely packed schedule of designer shows,
off-schedule shows, multiple presentations and exhibitors, the BFC for the first time is streaming live from the Catwalk Show Space at www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/live.
 After a week of stark New York shows, the Brits opened fashion week with an injection of colour and personality, with Paul Costelloe showing super-short baby doll and bubble hem dresses with oversized bows at the back, playsuits - predominately in a palette of grey, silver and white. His show notes read: the collection "is radically different to previous lines" and it's fair to say that it was. There was a distinctly sexier feel and a good dose of attitude.
Also on the schedule was the first Sustainable fashion show, where key looks from established and emerging designers working sustainably were showcased. Held in partnership with START, an initiative by The Prince's Charities Foundation to promote and celebrate sustainable living. The partnership reinforces the BFC's commitment to sustainable fashion through its Estethica initiative. Featured designers included Dame Vivienne Westwood’s World’s End Collection, Stella McCartney, From Somewhere, People Tree, Junky Styling, Henrietta Ludgate and Christopher Raeburn.
Day 2 at LFW saw Topshop Unique and the Fashion Fringe competition amongst others. Also showing were British heritage brand Daks, Sienna Miller’s brand Twenty8Twelve and Henry Holland.
Topshop Unique this year moved venues to Waterloo, where its designer Karen Bonsor, showed the brands 17th collection. Unique is Topshop’s progressive collection, and Bonsor describes the Unique woman as: “Someone who is an individual, who isn't afraid to stand out from the crowd and who loves fashion”. Firmly establishing that the 70s are THE trend for SS11, the show was 70s chic, with long billowing dresses, fringed capes and chiffon blousons that were a little bit Stevie Nicks, and the rock’n’roll style of jumpsuits, skinny bellbottoms more Joan Jett, with mirrored aviators on models who also wore plastic Plexiglas platforms.
Earlier in the day All Walks Beyond the Catwalk presented SNAPPED, a live shoot with photographer Rankin showing a diverse portrait of British Fashion with subjects varying in age and size.
Jude Law may have stolen the show at Twenty8Twelve, but the brand, which hasn’t always been taken seriously with celebrity sisters at the helm, proved itself to not be anything pretentious, but rather a lovely collection of fun, affordable and wearable looks. Themes included Fifties Americana, with denim mini prom dresses and frilled underskirts, as well as ruched jersey printed tube dresses and maxi dresses. Perhaps not the most suitable runway collection, but definitely a contender for fashion week, not to mention a best-seller on the shop floor.
Day 3 saw another packed schedule, this time with veterans Vivienne Westwood, Margaret Howell, Julien MacDonald and Matthew Williamson showing amongst newcomers Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou, Kinder Aggugini and Richard Nicholl. Also presenting were Unconditional, Mulberry and Acne.
Julien Macdonald showed he can do red carpet like a Hollywood favourite, showing chiffon, tulle and lace in mostly pale hues. For daywear there were stripes on shorts whilst florals adorned dresses. After buying vintage 1920s dresses, Macdonald cut them up and twisted them, with models wearing "Valley of the Dolls" beehives.
One of the most anticipated shows of the day was Dutch designer Michael van der Ham’s collection, who after two seasons at Fashion East secured himself an official slot on the calendar. Van der Ham previously worked with Alexander McQueen and Sophia Kokosolaki, and his 3D collage dresses struck the right note for spring. His patchwork dresses also went through a maturation and were more sophisticated this time round. Gone were the cotton florals, now replaced with richer fabrics, silks, brocade, sequins and, for the first time, fabrics of his own creation - tactile devore velvets. All in all a romantic and feminine collection from one to watch.
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Image: Michael van der Ham SS11
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