Miuccia Prada may have had eyes goggling at the plastic tops in her mainline show, but for Miu Miu she worked the basics of jacket, shirt and trouser into a modern new look. Chunky cord drawstring appeared at the hem of cropped jackets or the drawn-in paperbag waist on a narrow-legged pant added the essential twist of modernity that moves a basic silhouette into a thought-provoking new dimension.

Three button jackets were mismatched with striped pants and flat sandals - also seen at Missoni - in a raw-edged white linen tee or the triangular silhouette created by a cropped wide-shouldered blouson and skinny-legged pants. The season's colours are a mix of soft greys and neutrals or monochromatic black and white offset with cool inky navy and flashes of Yves Klein blue (a strong emerging colour trend for next summer, according to WGSN). There were nods to sportswear in the coated paper shorts and blousons, while faded patchworks added a pleasing touch of subtle pattern for soft shirts.