Showy knits and cool dudes in sleek leather seem to be the essence of Italian style. In the movies or the streets and especially on the fashion runways, knits and leather are fixtures.

Taking the look forward for next season were Missoni and Bottega Veneta while Roberto Cavalli stayed with his favorite embellished leather, making it a master class in workmanship. Graphic and diamond patterns contrasted with sweet, soft, pink, mauve and gray colors at Missoni. The look was young and fresh, with zippered jackets, long student scarves, jaunty caps, narrow pants and an air of casual chic.

Tweed suits and tailored jackets trimmed with leather proved that Tomas Maier is steering Bottega Veneta from leather accessories in earth colors toward urban style and secret luxury. Wool and leather of a husky kind was the theme at the Dsquared show on Tuesday. Dean and Dan Caten, the twins behind the label, took a trip ''home'' - to the white world of their native Canada, whose snowy mountains and pine trees created a frozen North backdrop. It was all good fun, but in taking their work more seriously, Dsquared is diluting the camp element that was wittier on the soundtrack than on the runway.

Roberto Cavalli was also in snow and ski mode - or any other activity that belonged to the jet set when St. Moritz was the hottest fashion haunt. Ritzy sweaters embedded with jewels may never see the ski slopes, but as the models turned their backs to the runway, their blouson jackets were imprinted with figures whizzing down the piste.

Alessandro dell'Acqua is king of the sweaters and his collection was full of fine pieces - especially the jacquard knits that made eye-popping patterns when a vest was worn over a striped shirt and a striking side-zippered sweater.