Armani's new look is sexy but demure. Calling it a "playful sensuality that transcends more obvious devices" the less is best phenomena is replaced with the sexy eccentricity of the fully clothed woman. For evening there were long satin skirts worn with matching camisoles and elegant, flowing evening coats; or long gowns, with petticoats glimpsed at the ankle, with demure outsize bows and ruffles obscuring the place at the neckline where, normally, an upholstered cleavage would be.

After last week's London fashion shows, in which new ideas were explored, Armani restored the feel of "big business" with a series of outfits shown earlier than usual in order to attract interest from celebrities looking for clothes to wear at the forthcoming Oscars ceremony.

Normally his shows take place in the middle of fashion week, but this year's Oscars are earlier than usual - this coming Sunday - and Armani traditionally dresses more stars for this event than any other designer. Ordinary customers have to wait until the autumn to see these dresses in his stores. But his London spokeswoman, Victoria Gooder, said: "These dresses could well go direct from the catwalk to Hollywood to be worn on Sunday if a client is interested.